Monday, June 30, 2008

Grow Herbs For Cooking Companion Plants And Flowers

Writen by Julie Williams

Herbs are such versatile plants. Their uses include medicinal, cosmetic, as essential oils for aromatherapy, as great companion plants, craft-work and of course to add mouth-watering flavours and aromas in our cooking. I really wonder how some people get by without herbs in their garden. How wonderful is it wander outside and pick a variety of fresh herbs for your main meal? If you haven't grown herbs before, just start with some really easy to grow herbs that you find particularly useful. I have an organic garden, so everything is free from chemicals.

Most people would use parsley, oregano and thyme. These are very easy herbs to grow. Oregano and thyme may spread a little in your garden and if you let your parsley eventually go to seed you will find new plants (volunteers) pop up all over your garden by themselves. I love this natural process of self seeding. My garden is a little on the wild side. But if you prefer a very neat and tidy garden, don't let your herbs go to seed, or pull out any volunteers growing in an undesirable spot. You can either remove the old plant to make way for new plants or cut off the seed heads. I always let my parsley go to seed. Some seeds make it to the ground, producing volunteers, so I always have enough to cut for culinary uses. The rest of the seeds I dry and also use in cooking.

Borage will grow almost anywhere through the warmer months. It is a great companion plant to strawberries, tomatoes and squash. Plus it looks pretty in the garden with its purple / blue, star-shaped flowers. It will also readily self-seed. The chooks love it, so when I have too many seedlings pop up they go to the chooks.

Rosemary and lavender have multiple uses. Both can be used in craft. Both attract bees. Both can be grown as wonderful looking and smelling hedges.

Grow at least a few clumps of chives or garlic chives. They look amazing when grown in clumps – even as a border in your flower garden. Chives look stunning when they're in flower. Chives have pink, round flowers, while garlic chives have white star-shaped flowers. Grow garlic chives for times when you don't have any garlic, or you want a milder flavour.

A good tip is to make sure you keep all mints contained in some kind of pot. If it escapes into your garden it may take over! I love having mint available, so I grow it in an old laundry trough. Lemon balm is another herb that can get out of control. Cutting off the seed heads will keep it in check.

A bay tree is a great addition to your garden. You can grow it in a pot if space is an issue – they look lovely clipped into a nice shape. Or you can grow it in the ground where it may grow to be a small to medium tree.

Once you've grown a few herbs and learn of their many uses I'm sure you'll be hooked. The herbs in this article are all very easy to grow and propagate, so start with these and try others as your knowledge grows. With a little research you will discover so many uses for herbs, including many wonderful health benefits.

They are also excellent companion plants. Some have properties that confuse and deter pests, some attract predatory insects, while others give more vigour or flavour to plants grown near them. Many herbs are also excellent activators for your compost heap. Most herbs are easy to grow, take very little time, space or effort and the rewards are delicious. Good luck growing yours.

Hi, I am an avid organic gardener and am known by my friends as the recycling queen. I live on a small country property in South Australia. It is my mission to encourage as many people as possible to start organic gardening. This will improve both our individual lives and the wellbeing of our personal and global environments. Please visit my website and get your free 3 part Composting Guide. For Companion Planting info click here.

Happy gardening, healthy living…
Julie Williams
http://www.1stoporganicgardening.com

Sunday, June 29, 2008

Moose Antler Art

Writen by David G. Petten

Moose antlers are a creative form of décor for the outdoors. Bringing in a rustic feel to any area. With a little creativity and innovation moose antlers can add a lot to a garden. Of course antlers can be mounted on a wall to give that just hunted effect but that is all too common. More creative ways for decorating moose antlers involves using antlers to create unique inviting pieces of furniture that can be used both inside and outside the home.

Chairs and tables made up of moose antlers are not only beautiful but are an excellent conversation starter with company. Even more creative uses involve moose antlers as jewelry holders and as candleholders. Moose antler baskets make a lovely side decoration that will make guests do a double take. The majority of the Antler decorated products that can be found are handmade and hand crafted. Adding a sense of authenticity and rustic nature to any yard. Moose antlers make wonderful lamps and chandeliers that at a rustic beautiful ambience no matter where they are.

If you are not thrilled about using real moose antler there is an alternative available for you. Just as there is faux fur there is also faux Moose antler available for the average animal lover. Carved from wood these faux moose antler pieces can be used just like the real ones and have the very same effect and beauty.

Both real and faux moose antler art can be found online. There are several websites that offer various different pieces that appeal to the moose antler lover. The cost ranges greatly between pieces and artists. When choosing the right moose antler piece for you shop around compare prices and quality to get the best value for your money. Also if you are choosing to purchase a moose antler piece that is real be sure that you are choosing a piece that has been acquired legally. Meaning that the hunter that the artist gets it's antler supply from is not breaking any local hunting laws. As these pieces are beautiful it is also important that the animals are not victims of poaching.

Once you have chosen a piece that suits you best display it proudly. The piece that you have chosen is a wonderful work of art that is unique and special. It is sure to be a piece that will be admired for generations to come.

Moose Antler Art

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Tulip Bulbs Fall Is The Time To Prepare The Perfect Spring Flower Garden

Writen by Linda Jenkinson

When the air begins to get cooler, and the leaves start to fall from the trees, most people immediately think of storing the gardening supplies for the winter and getting ready to bundle up. But Wait! Before packing away your gardening equipment, don't forget to pick up some tulip bulbs to plant in your garden. Fall is the perfect time for planting tulip bulbs.

Tulip bulbs are easily the most recognizable bulb flower in the world today. Most people think first of a tulip, when they are asked to name a flower bulb. Tulips are easy to grow, and require very little care, which is one of the reasons that they are so popular.

There is a very large variety in the color selection of tulip bulbs. The colors of tulips typically follow the color trends that are generally popular. Right now, pastel tulips are extremely popular color choices. The most popular tulip color has always been, and remains to be red. However, red is followed closely by yellow as the second most popular color.

Of course, you can find tulips in a variety of color as there are over 3500 varieties of tulips. You can purchase traditional tulip bulbs as well as fancy bulbs, which have a feathered, frilly petal. You can find tulips in solid colors as well as striped petals, or variegated colors.

You can purchase tulip bulbs that are early bloomers, maturing early in the springtime, or you can find tulips that will bloom later. So you can plan your bulb flowers so that you will consistently have flower blooms all spring, until your perennials begin blooming. Tulips come in tall varieties as well as shorter varieties, this can be important when you are planning a garden design. As well, you will have a choice between single blooming tulips and double bloomers.

With so much variety and selection, it is no doubt why tulip bulbs are such popular flowers. Coupled with the excellent selection and the ease of care and planting for tulips, they make an excellent addition to any garden design. Tulips look wonderful in both formal garden designs as well as informal styles.

Linda is author of the Tulip and Bulb Flowers section of http://www.gardening-guides.com Visit our site for more information, tips free e-books and how to's.

The Cure For Common Pool Stains

Writen by Brian Barker

A stain on the wall or floor of a swimming pool is either caused by metals in the pool water, or by something organic. The best clue to the source of the problem is the color of the pool stain. Stains on the walls or floor of a pool that are a greenish brown color are typically related to something organic, such as leaves sitting on the floor of the pool during the winter, or algae. A simple shock treatment and scrubbing with a stiff brush may quickly remove the stain. If brushing or scrubbing does not remove or lighten the stain, a natural ascorbic acid based product or diphosphonic acid based pool stain remover should be used. If a pool stain appears at the water line of the swimming pool you may use the appropriate tile or vinyl cleaner to gently scrub the stain away, or you might try one of the many very effective enzyme based cleaners. All natural pool enzymes will eat away at the oils holding dirt on the surface of the pool at the water line, to remove the stain with little or no scrubbing.

Stains that appear reddish brown or very dark colors are typically related to the metals in your pool water. The metals that commonly cause pool stains are iron, manganese & copper. A guide to the color of pool stain resulting from each of these metals is included below. If a swimmer's blonde or light colored hair turns green after swimming in your pool, this is an indication that there is a high concentration of copper in the water.

  • Copper - Blue, Green or dark (Black)
  • Iron - Rusty, Brown or Green/Brownish
  • Manganese - Brownish/Black or Purple

These metals can occur naturally, and may be in the water you use to fill the pool. If you have hard water or fill your pool with well water you are more likely to have metal pool stain problems, and regular testing for metals is suggested. Metals may also be introduced into the pool when the pool pH or pool alkalinity levels are not properly maintained, and the water becomes corrosive. Corrosive pool water will eat away at the pool surface and inside of pool plumbing and equipment, releasing metals into the water. The plumbing inside a swimming pool heater, called the "heat exchanger", is made of copper. If the pool pH and pool Alkalinity levels are not properly maintained, this heat exchanger will quickly corrode and dissolve copper into the pool water causing pool stains.

The first step to eliminating a pool metal stain is to have the pool water tested for metals, and determine how the excess metals were introduced into the water. Take measures to prevent the stain from quickly returning. If there are excessive amounts of metals in your pool water, and stains return again and again after trying each method of treatment, you should partially drain the pool and re-fill with fresh water that has been tested to confirm there is very little or no metals. As with stains caused by something organic, metal pool stains can be easily removed using a natural ascorbic acid based product or diphosphonic acid based product. Another method for removing stains from the floor of a pool is to place ½ pound of pH Reducer in a sock, and drop the sock onto the stain. Position the sock with your telescoping pole, and leave it on the pool stain for 5-10 minutes. If the stain has been removed, place the sock on each affected area for 5-10 minutes.

Please visit www.InTheSwim.com for a complete selection of pool stain removers and quality swimming pool chemicals.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Growing Herb Plants In Containers

Writen by Ted Roberson

I love herb plants. I have grown thyme, basil, marjoram, sage, mint, parsley, cilantro, chives, rosemary, oregano and more. My rosemary plant has now made it through two winters and it looks like a small shrub.

I love herb plants because I get to eat them, they are easy to grow, and they can be grown quite successfully in containers. My herb plants have all been grown in plain, cheap plastic containers from the local discount store. Some, like mint and the rosemary, have been grown in their own individual pots, while others, like thyme and sage, are planted together in window boxes that sit on the walls of my patio.

These container-grown herb plants are incredibly convenient because they are all about two steps out my back door. If I decide I need an herb in the middle of cooking dinner, I can rush out and grab a little without having to worry if my kitchen will catch on fire (and without stopping to find my shoes).

There's really only one rule to growing herb plants: grow what you like. If you never cook Italian food, don't grow basil. If you don't like mint, don't grow it. You should never grow something you won't use just because it looks nice, smells nice, or seems like something that ought to be in your garden.

If you cook a lot, you probably already know what kinds of herb plants you'd like in your container garden. If you don't cook, growing some herb plants just might give you a kick-start. Try easy-to-grow and use herbs like parsley, chives, cilantro or thyme. Or grow things that correspond to the cuisines you like to eat: cilantro for Mexican food, basil and rosemary for Italian, mint and chamomile if you love tea, lemongrass and Thai basil for Thai food, etc. Then get a recipe book from the library and make sure those herbs don't go to waste!

There are two methods for growing herb plants: you can buy already established plants or you can start your herb plants from seed. We usually do a mix based on which herb plants are available for sale at our local farmer's market or garden supply store.

The easiest herb plants to grow from seed are parsley, cilantro, chives, mint and other similar plants with small grassy stems. The woodier herb plants like rosemary, thyme and oregano are better grown from established plants.

If you are planting established herb plants, you plant them in the same way you would plant any other plant; just dig a hole, put the plant in and water it well. If you're starting your herb plants from seeds, scatter them over the soil, cover very lightly with a little bit of soil and water well. The plants will begin to sprout in about a week.

The great thing about starting your herbs from seeds is that you can continue to plant seeds every couple of weeks all season long so you always have fresh herbs available. Parsley and cilantro in particular benefit from this continual sewing, because so much must be harvested to be of any use.

Whichever way you choose to start your herb plants, make sure you keep them well watered through the season and they will produce well for you. Established herbs can be harvested by simply trimming off what you need. The potency of dried herbs is about three times that of fresh, so if you are using fresh herbs in a recipe that called for dried herbs, triple the amount called for.

Fresh herbs are not just for cooking. You can also use them in craft projects, flower arrangements, and salads. Dry some of your harvest so you'll have great "fresh" herbs all winter long. You'll never go back to those sad little tins from the grocery store.

Discover how to improve and maintain your landscape and garden area with simple projects you can do around your home and garden to accent your outdoor living area.

http://www.landscapeliving.com/

Thursday, June 26, 2008

My Experiences With Labyrinth Design

Writen by Morgan Hamilton

I recently changed my backyard's look by completing a series of labyrinth designs. As I am well off and have a hundred acres in rural Nova Scotia, I can afford to indulge my passions. One of the things I most desire is earthworks of all types, most especially I have a thing for labyrinth designs.

It probably all started with my studies of Greek myths as a child. I am referring to the story of the amazing Labyrinth designed by Daedalus to hide kind Mino's dirty little secret, and the curse of the Theban youth, the Minotaur. I couldn't get the idea of labyrinth designs worthy to a trap and hold such a monster out of my head. I imagined how the victims are forced into the labyrinth, being lost and not managing to find their way out, finally ending being eaten by the Minotaur.

However, I had a real experience in a labyrinth with my first girlfriend once which I will never forget. Sheila and I were sixteen and she was a Wiccan as opposed to her parents' Christian orthodoxy. One day we happened to find a book of magic and witchcraft offering labyrinth designs. That is how we started building one in the woods.

Even though it is also possible to construct it with nothing but cornstarch, my girlfriend and I made our minds to cut it out of the overgrown hedges which grew down by the pond in the woods. We selected one of the more difficult labyrinth designs from the book but unfortunately didn't manage to finish it as we ran out of shrubs long before we were done. Even though, we didn't complete the labyrinth, it was a fun and pleasurable experience for both of us.

The kinds of labyrinths which I have been constructing recently are made of more sturdy stuff. They are build of huge flagstones located some thirty miles from my home. Every single day I drive out with my truck and come back with a flatbed full of rock. Then I spend the rest of the day laying. I made up the labyrinth designs myself. The first one is done while the second is on its way, due to be finished by the summer solstice. Then I will have many friends over to get drunk and get lost in the labyrinths. They will like this experience keeping it as a precious and fun memory.

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning gardening. Learn more at Labyrinth Design

How To Choose A Storage Shed

Writen by Vic Maia

If you own a house, at some point the need for extra storage space soon becomes evident. Arguably the most common solution is to purchase a storage shed. There are hundreds of styles and options available, but taking the time review these 5 key steps will enable you to make a smarter decision.

1. What is the primary function of the shed? In most cases, storage space is the key requirement, so figure out how much space is needed. A small 4' x 8' lean-to style provides sufficient space for small tools, but larger items do require more space. I strongly recommend choosing the largest size that you can afford, which still blends in with your landscape. Remember that most municipalities require building permits for any building over 100 sq. ft.

2. Is the shed going to play a prominent role in your day to day activities? If so, make sure that you choose a style and options that give you good access and provide adequate lighting. Windows and skylights provide plenty of natural light, but it is common to run electricity to the shed. For easy access, make sure that the doors are at least 34" wide, as most lawn mowers will easily pass through.

3. How important is the look of the shed to my property. Remember that anything you erect will either add or impair on your property value. Metal and vinyl are the least expensive options, but these tend to look ordinary. Wood and pre- finished sidings normally add character and value, but are usually more expensive.

4. Consider the grade and accessibility of the location. A level site is the starting point for all shed construction The greater the grade, the more work needs to be done. Typically a grade of 6" or less over the dimension of the shed can be compensated for by using patio stones, especially for smaller units. In areas faced with frost upheaval or poor drainage, it is recommend that at least 6" of topsoil be removed and filled with screening stone (1/2" or smaller gravel is also acceptable).

5. Be considerate to your neighbors! Don't put up something that belongs in a junkyard beside your neighbor's manicured backyard. Most municipalities require that storage sheds be 2 ft from the fence or property line, so be sure to check ahead of time to avoid any aggravation. Talk to your neighbors about your intentions – 99% of the time they will appreciate your concern and be very supportive of your project.

The internet is an excellent source for information on the hundreds of suppliers and styles available. If ordering online be sure to read the warranty and returns information carefully as often goods of this nature cannot be returned. Just because a company has a fancy website it does not mean it stands behind its product – try searching for articles or information on the particular company. Most companies offer either pre-cut or pre-fabricated kits delivered to your residence. If choosing a fully installed product, deal with a local company with a fixed location (avoid the ones that set-up at seasonal locations), and again be prudent with your research. I strongly recommend avoiding companies that require more than a 30% deposit – you'll end up waiting longer than you should. A storage shed is an important purchase – a little research will go a long way in helping making the right decision.

Vic Maia is currently the owner and operator of Garden Shed & Gazebos. English Garden is a family-owned business that has been designing and building Garden Sheds, Gazebos, Cabanas and Bunkies for over 30 years. We are dedicated to providing personalized customer service.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Outdoor Party Lighting How To Make Your Party Sparkle

Writen by Erika Cleugh

Summer is here and you are probably busy planning your outdoor parties. Lighting is an important element that should not be forgotten. If your yard doesn't have the perfect lighting for your party, there are some quick lighting options that will light up your party in no time.

Cordless lighting options are the best for table tops so you don't have to tape down cords and risk your guests tripping. Candles are an old stand-by that gives off a nice glow. There are candle holders that are wind resistant, such as the Globe Hurricane candle holder from Crate and Barrel, so you won't have to relight your candles all night. If you have umbrella tables, the Umbrella Centerpiece from Crate and Barrel looks beautiful and it is filled with citronella wax to ward off mosquitoes. If you want a maintenance free and more colorful option, try the Candela 4 Lights from 2Modern.com. They are lit by rechargeable battery so they won't blow out.

For ambient lighting, fire pits or torches are always fun for outdoor parties. There is a sleek looking Stainless Steel Patio Torch available at Target.com. If you have a beautiful tree, fountain, or piece of artwork in your backyard, lighting it from the ground up is a stunning way to enhance your party's atmosphere. Target has a Solar Flood/Spotlight available on-line that will eliminate the need for unsightly and hazardous cords.

Be creative with other outdoor lighting ideas too. Place Christmas tree lights in your trees or line your patio with them. Hang interesting string lights from trees or awnings. Target has some Burst Plastic Cone String lights that would look great hanging under a patio umbrella. The brightly colored Candeloos from 2Modern.com are very whimsical and can be placed anywhere because they are cordless.

Don't forget to light footpaths for your guests. Target has a few different styles of solar path lights, such as the Solar Metal Wedge Lights in Silver. If there are children coming to your party or if the path is in a shady place, use these Candela Pro Lights from 2Modern.com. They are cool to the touch and rechargeable.

With these suggestions, and your imagination, your summer party will be a hit. Your yard will sparkle and create the perfect ambiance. Your guests will think you hired an electrician just for this occasion.

Erika Cleugh enjoys traveling, reading, cooking, gardening, entertaining, home decorating, home fix-it projects, and crafts. She loves to research and enjoys sharing her new found information.

Manage Algae

Writen by Robert Dorrance

There are several different ways to manage algae in your backyard pond. The best way however is when you have several different things all working together in harmony that will best take care of any algae problems you may have.

The things that I'm talking about are as follows to manage algae. First, you will need to have some kind of pond filter. There are many different kinds on the market in many different price ranges. Personally, I think submersible pond filters are the best. They're in the water and out of sight. I'm not trying to be pushy, but you might want to check out my homemade pond filter, it works fantastic.

The second thing you need to help manage algae is a UV filter. These filters should be at the top of your list when it comes to things you must have for your pond. What they do is kill the algae as the pond water passes by the light inside the tube that encloses it. They can be hooked up in conjunction with your pond filter and water pump, or separately.

The third thing that you must have is plenty of pond plants. You should have both underwater and surface plants. Pond plants help break down the organic waste from the fish and help manage algae. Great underwater plants include Anacharis and Hornwort, while good surface plants are Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce.

I would prefer not to use any chemicals, and I haven't, so I cannot comment about them. The three things mentioned above should be just about all you need to keep the algae under control. Try and keep ahead of the game and not let the algae get out of control, because if you do, you could have a battle on your hands at getting rid of it completely. It's up to you to manage algae, don't let it manage you.

Robert Dorrance has had a pond for the last eight years and would like to share his experiences with you. Be sure to come by and download the free e-book, How To Build A Beautiful Backyard Pond. Find out more at http://www.Backyard-Pond-Guide.com

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

In The Veggie Patch December

Writen by Toni Salter

December is quiet in the garden, so it's a good opportunity to attend to some of those "must-get-around-to-doing-sometime" jobs in the garden. A good purge and clear up is often in order, especially for older gardens. So hop to it! You'll be greatful you did when the busy spring planting season comes around.

If you live in the tropics, now is the start of the cool dry season and you can grow a wider variety of crops, so you'll be run off your feet, unlike your fellow gardeners in the colder northern areas.

What to plant
Plant rhubarb crowns and asparagus crowns now. They're a great addition to any garden. Aspargus crowns last for 20 years and will reward you with thick tasty spears after the first 2 or three years. Initial preparation is essential for good crops. They need to be planted deep so try to get them about 30cm below the surface an incorporate loads of compost and manures. A yearly tidy up and top dressing with manure should be all they need afterwards.

You can keep planting your onion crop until late winter. Seeds sown now will be ready for harvesting from around August in some areas. In cold regions wait until after the worst of the winter weather has passed and plant "early" varieties in February or March instead.

Sow peas directly into the garden and add a mixture of varieties, from old fashion shelling varieties to sugar snap and snow peas for garden salads. Most will need a trellis or climbing support. Peas provide a great source of nitrogen for the soil so plant them together with lettuce and spinach. Winter lettuce varieties go well now but you can get an early start to spring plantings if you have a nice sunny windowsill or glasshouse to keep them going until ready to plant out in February. This is for the very keen and not so faint hearted (for fear of disappointment).

Add lime to your soil now if it is slightly acidic. Check the pH with a simple test kit bought at your local nursery. Peas, spinach and onions like a slightly alkaline soil (pH of 7.0 up to 8.0).

Consider sowing a "green manure" crop to help add nutrients and bulk to your soil. A green manure crop is a fast growing plant (usually 6-8 weeks) that is grown only to about knee height, then slashed and turned back into the soil. Some plants you can use are oats, pod vetch, lupins, mustard, red clover or even broad beans can also be used. A legume (or plant producing a bean-like pod) adds nitrogen to the soil through the roots and bulky mulching material is added through slashing the leaves before it has a chance to flower.

Roses
Now is rose time and with some extra time this month you can scour the catalogues and nurseries to purchase and plant any exciting new additions or even put in some of the old favourites. Remember roses will need to be pruned between mid December to mid January for best results. If you suspect any late frosts then leave it later rather than earlier. Prune them back to at least half their size, I go as far as 1/3. This encourages strong watershoots to appear in Spring giving plants a good strong framework and lots of healthy new canes to flower on.

Odd jobs
Mulching now may protect your plants from winter frosts by buffering temperature extremes. It also keeps moisture in and cuts down on the need to water your veggies too often. Make sure you lay it at least 5 to 7 cm thick otherwise you'll be disappointed and weeds will start coming through. You can use any deciduous leaves that have fallen now as mulch. Or better still compost them first and use the compost in Spring. A word of warning when collecting leaves around the garden: dispose of any diseased leaves otherwise you could inadvertantly spread the disease rith throughout your garden with disastrous results next summer.

Deciduous leaves are hard to break down becuse they lack nitrogen. They will last a long time in the garden but can also prevent water passing through if they are laid too thickly. This makes leaves ideal to create paths between your garden beds. Usually paths between beds get a lot of wear and tear, so take the time this winter to define your garden beds and get rid of the half worn grass around them. Place a good layer of damp newspaper straight on top of your grass, define the garden edges with plastic, timber, terracotta or concrete edges and then lay the leaves directly on top of the newspaper. Make it a thick layer as it will settle down over the next few months.

Now is a good time to prune and tidy up all areas of your garden. Consider rigging up a composting area with 3 individual bays to hold the different stages of decomposing material. A triple system allows you to create a pile and then turn it into the next bay. This is a much easier way to turn your heap than trying to turn it onto itself, where you never seem to be able" to quite reach that bit in the bottom". Keep turning it into the next bay and then you can leave the last bay as storage for your finished compost. This will continue to break down over time and can also become a great spot for earthworms. Remember to keep it covered so that rainfall doesn't leach out any of the goodies before you need it.

Pest alert!
Winter is usually a pest free time in the garden, but don't be fooled. Many will pupate over this time. Similarly, fungus is laying dormant just waiting for warmer conditions to spread it's deadly force. So don't become too complacent.

Fruit fly and codlin moth in apples are ones to watch out for. Remove any fallen fruit that may harbour their little eggs or maggots. Ensure that your orchard area is clean and you'll avoid many problems. Now is a good time to consider some companion planting. Green Harvest have a wonderful "Good Bug Mix" of seeds to sow around your fruit trees and near the veggie patch. It's a mixture of continual flowering herbs and plants that will attract the natural predators. Worth getting a pack or two.

Keep an eye out for caterpillars still, especially on vulnerable young cabbage family plants. Hand removal is often best. Use Dipel (Bt) if you have to.

Spray bordeaux mix for fungal problems like leaf curl, shot hole, rust, apple & pear scab and brown rot. This is done now to minimize damage to leaves.

Fruit trees
I always think of apple pie at this time of year. The old favourite recipe gets me special appreciation from the kids as well as hubby and it leaves those factory frozen ones for dead. So it's worth putting in a Granny Smith just for the "love factor". Many can be grown in pots now along with other dwarf stone fruit. Take a look at my article on creating an orchard in a pot at Veggie Lady articles. You'll be surprised by what you can achieve in a relatively small space.

Pruning of your apple and pear trees takes place now. Shape them into an "open vase" by removing the inward growing shoots and leaving the more vertical branches alone. More fruiting occurs on this vertical growth and the shape will improve air circulation to prevent fungal problems. Try growing some espaliered on a north facing wall or in rows running north-south. Encourage one or two vertical "leaders" and then tie down the long soft branches to horizontal that come from the central leader. You'll have to wait for spurs to grow from the horizontal branch before fruiting occurs.

Now is a good time to order and plant decidous fruit trees that arrive "bare rooted". This means that they come without any soil attached and should be planted quickly to they don't dry out. Give the longer roots a trim and tidy up so that you can spread the roots out as you plant it in the hole. Make sure the hole is big enough and incorporate some good compost when back-filling. I avoid putting manure in the planting hole since direct contact with the roots can burn them. Instead top dress with some manure, mulch heavily and give it a good water. By the time the tree breaks its dormancy and starts to grow, it'll have a good supply of nutrients from the boken down manure above.

You can revive old fruit trees by cutting back one third of a tree's branches every 3 years. By the end of the 3 years you should have cut back the entire tree. Don't cut all the branches at once, it throws the tree into chaos and it sends out shoots everywhere (this is unfortunately what i did in time gone by - oh for the value of education!!). When new shoots appear, simply rub off the smaller ones and just keep best ones to form the new shape of the tree. The vigorous new growth will reward you with good fruit production.

Grape vines should be cut back very hard, which may seem savage but it is necessary. Leave only short 3-bud spurs at 20cm intervals along the main branch. This is important for preventing disease and getting good fruit.

Replace your strawberries about every 3 years. Many get diseased and affected by viruses. All new runners put out by infected plants will contain the problem. So it is best to replace with new, fresh and disease-free plants for better cropping.

Citrus are in full swing now so enjoy your sweeter navels as they come into season. My kids never ate oranges until I gave them a bowl of home grown, sweet and juicy organic navel oranges. They devoured them in one sitting, with juice streaming down the sides of their mouths!! Mandarins, limes and grapefruits are harvested now too, along with banana passionfruit, avocados, guavas and olives.

About the Author
Toni Salter is the 'Veggie Lady'. Her website http://www.theveggielady.com contains free advice on what to do in the garden, a planting guide, organic pest and disease control, featured plants and more each month.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Do It Yourself Landscape Design Where To Begin

Writen by Steve Boulden

There's an old saying that states something like - "Getting Started Is Half Finished". And so many times I find this to be true as I see do it yourself landscapers struggle to find their initial design idea. However, once they establish a framework of necessary design elements, it usually goes pretty smooth from there.

It's not surprising that the most common landscape design question that I get is - "where do I begin?" or "how do I start my design?". I know it can be difficult. And especially if you don't have a vision for your design.

So where do you begin? How do you start your landscape or garden design?

While every design is different and every designer follows a set of rules and principles, I find that most do it yourselfers all have the greatest success from using the same starting point. Begin by laying down any paths, driveways, access routes, or walk areas that might be needed. And also create access to any areas that you may plan on creating. In many designs, this will help to establish a framework that you can simply design around.

Of course, this won't be applicable in all designs as many don't require any access or travel. So take and use this advice where and if you can.

Paths and walkways can accomplish many functions in your landscape or garden. Their main function, of course, is to create a designated space for people to walk on.

However, in design and as an aid to design, their function could be to guide your visitors to, through, or away from some other area in the garden. Also, they're a great way to break up a vast expanse of lawn, meadow, or bed area.

First, let's look at walkways, paths, and such as necessary elements.

Walkways are needed to guide visitors or yourself to and from another area. Observe that almost every home has a walkway leading to the front door, which is, of course, where most folks want to invite guests to come. So walks, whether refined (brick, flagstone, etc.) or primitive (gravel, mulch, etc.), are necessary to "guide" or "lead" visitors to, through, or away from an area.

So where are the necessary areas where you need other walkways or access? Maybe from the back door to the alley where you dump the trash. Or from the house to the pool area. Or from the pool area to the kids play area or the outdoor cooking area. You get the picture.

In a design sense.

Establishing walk, drive, and access areas will in turn help to create borders and boundaries. Once you have your walkways laid out, you can simply design a lot of the landscaping around them. The same goes with driveways and parking areas as well. You can plant beds on either or both sides of a walk or use a walkway as an edge to create borders.

Keep it interesting if you can.

If you were to, for instance, plan to place a sitting area at the back of the garden. Of course you would need some type of path for you and your guests to get there. However, instead of plotting a straight path, why not create a winding tour through other interesting areas of the garden on the way there?

Curves and winding paths do more than just create interest. They can also create an illusion of more space, distance, and travel. This is especially useful in creating small gardens and landscapes.

Once you lay down walkways, driveways, and access areas, you'll have a good starting framework for the rest of the design. Now, simply design around them.

Written by Steve Boulden. Steve is the creator of The Landscape Design Site which offers free professional landscaping advice, tips, plans, and ideas to do it yourselfers and homeowners. For more free advice on landscaping and garden planning, visit his site at: http://www.the-landscape-design-site.com/landscapeplanning.html

Sunday, June 22, 2008

How To Plant Evergreens In The Fall

Writen by Doug Green

Late fall is an excellent time to move or plant evergreen shrubs. If you have to replace some damaged last winter, the prices at local garden centres will never be better and most of the plants will come with guarantees for overwintering success. Try to have the evergreens planted in the next two or three weeks for good survival rates. Woody plants such as trees and shrubs are also easily and successfully planted at this time of year although you have more time (until freezeup) to get them into the ground.

Remember the old gardening tip about putting a dollar plant into a five dollar hole when installing your evergreen shrubs. A hole that is significantly larger than the rootball allows those tender roots to shoot out and establish themselves into nice loose soil before the onset of winter. The better the roots establish themselves, the higher your survival rate will be. I generally use a shovel or two of compost into the soil when backfilling the roots. I do not add any fertilizer, the research suggests this is not needed when planting. The old time gardeners used to add bone meal to the planting hole and if this makes you feel better, then add some; it won't hurt and it might help. Compost works for me just fine.

The one thing the old time gardeners and I totally agree on is the need to "muddify" the planting hole after the plant is in the ground. Now, you won't find this word in a dictionary but as long as you turn the hose onto the plant and turn the entire planting area into a swamp, to ensure that each and every root has wet soil around it, then you have "muddified" your planting hole.

Five dollar holes and muddify, its that simple.

Doug Green an award winning garden author of 7 books answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.simplegiftsfarm.com/gardeningnewsletter.html

Abatement Challenges Of Nonnative Noxious Weeds

Writen by Lance Winslow

When crews go out to do weed abatement programs and spraying so often they pick up seeds from the weeds on the undercarriages of their vehicles so where as they think they are helping kill all the weeds with their sprayers of weed abatement; they are actually providing job security to themselves by spreading around existing weeds you see? Not good to say the least, nevertheless the weeds being abated do need to be sprayed.

What is the solution to this problem? Well I propose putting small 3.5 Horse Power Honda Motors running 750-1200 PSI pressure washers on each unit. And I propose that we are careful to make sure they have enough clear water to rinse the undercarriages. I further propose that the undercarriages have shells underneath so the seeds do not stick in any dried on grease, dirt or oil underneath.

Additionally it would make sense that after rinsing the vehicles off that the abatement solution be sprayed onto any puddles left before that vehicle leaves the area. If we fail to do this we are merely kidding ourselves in that we are spreading around the problem and not really solving the problem completely you see? I sincerely hope you will consider this reality check on the abatement challenges of Non-Native Noxious Weeds in 2006.

Lance Winslow

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Tips On Gardening

Writen by Jeffrey Meier

Gardening

What better way to relax after a hard day than to take a stroll in your garden or just enjoy the spectacular view of your garden sipping your evening tea and the vegetables from your very own garden cannot be found anywhere else! Gardening is an art which requires skill. Having a garden in your home is a luxury but it also requires a lot of pampering and care. Maintaining a garden would need time and work as it needs regular watering, fertilizing, weeding and monitoring for disease and insect problems

To develop and maintain a garden you will need proper planning. You would have to decide on where to start your garden, then decide on what you want. If you are planning for vegetable garden then what vegetables you want to grow or for a flower garden then what kinds of flowers you would want. You should also take into consideration the type of soil as soil is the most important element for healthy growth.

Vegetable garden:

The joy of eating home grown vegetables is something which you cannot describe. It is perhaps the most rewarding thing about gardening. It is not necessary that you need a big space to grow vegetables. Of course having a large space has its own advantage as you grow variety of vegetables but even if you do not have space you need not be disappointed. Some vegetables can also be grown in small spaces even in pots or planter boxes

Proper sunlight is important for your vegetables. Vegetables producing fruits need direct sunlight but leafy vegetables like cabbage or lettuce have to be grown in partial shade. The type of vegetables to grow in your garden will depend on the season they should be grown. Vegetables which come in spring include lettuce, radish, asparagus and they are quick growing vegetables. Winter vegetables are like potatoes, carrots and squash. Beans, peas, cabbage, cauliflower; tomatoes are seen in plenty in summers.

Use of Fertilizers:

Many different nutrient elements are essential for good growth of vegetables, but nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are the three most important nutrients. Nutrients like Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are supplied by limestone and the other required elements they get from air, water, and soil. Fertilizers provide minerals to promote green growth, root growth, hardiness and disease resistance. These fertilizers are generally sold by grade and contain two or three major plant nutrients. If your garden has been fertilized for years, then the soil will have high levels of phosphorus and potassium. So nitrogen is the only required fertilizer as additional phosphorus and potassium are not required. Different vegetables have different fertilizer requirements. Leafy vegetables require a lot of nitrogen as compared to other vegetables and root vegetables need more phosphorous and potash for their development.

Tips for gardening:

• Maintain the soil as the roots of grass plants obtain needed moisture and nutrients from the soil and in order for roots to function they need plenty of oxygen in the soil.

• Apply fertilizer before or at planting.

• Use little amount of fertilizer in frequent intervals.

• Regular watering of the plants is necessary. The recommendation for watering depends on the season.

• Well-drained soil that is slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0) is necessary.

• Regular monitoring for disease and insect problems

Jeffrey Meier of Jam727 Enterprises http://www.jam727.com offers products and information articles on a variety of subjects. If you would like read about more ideas on gardening tips please visit http://www.gardenofvegatables.com

Friday, June 20, 2008

Stump Grinders Use Stump Grinders Safely

Writen by Sumit Sehghal

Stump grinder is a useful equipment for finishing the work of tree removal. It is basically a petrol-powered tool that is used for grinding tree stumps, which are usually left over after cutting down the trees. These stump grinders may easily grind stumps to 330 mm (approximately) below ground level.

Stumps can be easily removed with the correct use of stump grinders. The person who is going to use these machines should be well aware to its use. Nowadays stump grinders are available in different sizes such as large stump grinders and small stump grinders. Large stump grinders are generally used by the professionals for stump removal whereas small and cheap stump grinders are available for the some smaller functions.

Users should use stump grinders with the cutting wheel on the end completely opposite the operator. They should be physically fit and properly trained for a safe use. Don't forget to keep all bystanders far away from the grinder. Always keep in mind that its cutting wheel is dangerous as well as it can throw the objects a long ways.

Whenever you want to change the direction of machine you should shut off the engine. Also check the operator's position when the engine is running. Homeowners normally use small stump grinders but they should also be aware of all its limitations and uses. These are quite expensive so it is best to rent a stump grinder.

Author owns a website on Stump Grinders. Website provides all information about stump grinders, best stump grinders, cheap stump grinders, and uses of stump grinders. Also offers some tips on how to use stump grinder safely. You can also visit his site about cheap stump grinders

Plastic Amp Resin Patio Furniture What You Dont Know

Writen by Jennifer Akre

What is the first thought that comes through your mind when you hear "resin patio furniture" or "plastic patio furniture"? Is the word cheap or flimsy? You are not alone. But what you may not know is it is the latest trend and spreading fast.

Today's manufacturers make resin and plastic patio furniture in such a way that it closely resembles painted wood. There are some that make their plastic Adirondack chairs and resin patio furniture out of Polymer. This material is made of HDPE which is a high density version of polyethylene plastic. It is a hard, strong, and heavy plastic resin that has been purified and UV protected. Other manufacturers use EnviroWood which is a synthetic wood substitute made from 100% recycled plastic bottles and containers. The plastic is permeated with UV stabilized coloring that is consistent throughout.

Plastic Adirondack chairs and furniture have been designed for comfort and are built to last. They are unaffected by sun, rain, snow, even chlorine and saltwater. There is no need to paint or sand your plastic or resin patio furniture or apply a treatment seasonally. It does not rot, warp, crack or splinter. And because the furniture has solid color throughout, you can leave your plastic Adirondack chairs outside year-round because they will not fade.

With such life-long features, it is no wonder why people are getting sold on plastic and resin patio furniture. If you have not heard enough, the maintenance-free characteristic bears repeating. Outside of caring for and cleaning your furniture with soap and warm water, you can "sit back, relax and forget about it" says Poly-Wood, Inc. And if by chance you get a tough stain requiring additional cleaning power, such as a bleach/water mixture or a power wash, you can do so without affecting the color of your furniture.

Most plastic furniture manufacturers, if not all, use stainless steel hardware in their construction process. The hardware used has a high level of corrosive resistance that complements the already unique nature of the furniture allowing you to leave it outside year-round. The solid, heavy-duty construction keeps all furniture made of recycled plastic or resin on your deck or in your yard. A plastic Adirondack chair, on average, weighs between 45 to 50 lbs. Flimsy is definitely not the right adjective to describe this furniture.

And that is not all. Plastic and resin patio furniture comes in a variety of colors and styles. The Adirondack style has been a very popular version for plastic furniture. With plastic Adirondack chairs, benches and swings, you can find a classic, curved back or shellback style. Along with those choices you can choose colors such as white, patina, natural, teak, green and even lively colors such as flamingo, caribbean blue, and banana.

Although you may spend a little more for plastic and resin patio furniture styles, you will find it is an investment worth considering. Whether you are looking for furniture to place on a rustic seaside deck or for a formal garden, you may find exactly what you are looking for in among the wide selection of plastic Adirondack chairs and furniture.

Jennifer Akre is a successful business owner of numerous outdoor furniture websites such as http://www.eAdirondackStyle.com. Her websites offer product and information about plastic Adirondack chairs, plastic and resin patio furniture and other decor and furniture for your home or garden.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Sir Cedric Morris Hardy Geranium

Writen by Alan Summers

Extra Hardy, Impressive Color and Low-Maintenance All in One

This week we're taking the opportunity to introduce you to hardy Geraniums, specifically 'Sir Cedric Morris'. 'Sir Cedric Morris' was one of our most popular feature plants in 2004. Hardy geraniums are ideal for use in perennial gardens, rock gardens, borders or as ground cover, and excellent for difficult-to-mow sunny slopes. They are forgiving and come back year after year with little to no maintenance. These are true perennials not to be confused with florists' geraniums.

'Sir Cedric Morris' is an especially large flowered variety that produces a visually stunning show of luminescent magenta pink blooms with broad overlapping petals against the large, finely divided deep-green leaves. Expect an impressive 24-30 inch mound of color from each plant.

Caution: 'Sir Cedric Morris' Often Creates Jealous Neighbors!

Get ready for plenty of questions from passersby about this unusually beautiful plant. Most will assume that it is expensive and takes extensive garden know-how to create such impressive displays. The secret is, 'Sir Cedric Morris' makes it easy! What you tell others is up to you.

  • Forms impressive mounds, about 15-inches high and 30-inches wide
  • Visually stunning color contrast, even from a distance
  • Reblooms in the autumn
  • Handsome deep red fall foliage
  • Extra-hardy, reliably returns every year in zones 4-10 - a true perennial
  • Very low maintenance
  • Deer-resistant
  • Adapts to most any soil (except really sodden, wet soils)
  • 'Sir Cedric Morris' thrives in sunny, hot summertime weather. Just water them regularly until established. Expect the long-lasting blooms from late-spring through early-summer.

    Planting and Caring

    For best results, plant anytime from early spring into early fall. It performs best in a fully sunny or lightly-shaded location and accepts either acid or alkaline soils, as long as they are well-drained. Plant 24 inches apart for a weed-inhibiting ground cover.

  • Water-in new plants with a soluble seaweed fertilizer, such as SeaMate. Do not use chemical fertilizers. Water regularly until established.
  • Surround new plants with a good mulch or well-rotted garden compost. A thin layer of mulch is recommended for subsequent years. Mulching is best when accomplished early in the season just before plants emerge from their winter break.
  • An application of organic fertilizer in early spring is rewarded with extra vigorous plants. Again, avoid chemical fertilizers. Espoma's Plant-Tone is a great all purpose organic fertilizer.
  • After flowering, usually mid-summer, they can be lightly trimmed or cut-back completely. New foliage will emerge and a second round of flowering will occur in autumn, most seasons, until the first hard freeze.
  • Click here to view 'Sir Cedric Morris' Hardy Geranium on the Carroll Gardens website.

    Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous "lost" cultivars back to American gardeners.

    Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions.

    Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

    Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more about Carroll Gardens, the weekly newsletter and the radio show.

    Wednesday, June 18, 2008

    Pool Mosaics

    Writen by Thomas Morva

    Pools can be beautifully decorated using mosaic art in different patterned pool murals. Most of the time, the mosaic pattern for a swimming pool is in the shape of marine creatures like a whale, starfish, crab or fish. Sometimes, the pattern may also take the shape of the sun or some geometrical shape. A pool mural is placed at the center of the swimming pool, while there usually are some mosaic patterns running along the border of the pool.

    The installation of the mosaics to the pool is relatively easy and just requires a call to the pool contractor. You will then have to pay the pool contractor a nominal charge for installation. If you are worried about the maintenance of the pool mosaic, don't; there is no maintenance required here at all. Most of the pool mosaic companies guarantee the mosaics for the life of the pool. There will be no peeling or fading of the mosaic, and it is also impervious to normal pool chemicals.

    There is also paint available to paint on the pool mosaic to give the mosaic design a different color altogether; the color of the mural can be changed by contacting the pool mosaic company, where they take custom orders through fax or email. And if there is a need for an altogether different custom design, all that has to be done is to send a color image of your design to the pool mosaic company through fax or email, and the rest is their responsibility.

    Some pool mosaic companies also have reflective types of pool mosaics that reflect the sunlight along the border of the swimming pool, enhancing the effect of the pool mosaic. So, if you do have a swimming pool, be sure to rush down to the nearest pool mosaic company to have a pool mural and pool mosaic designs made to your order.

    Mosaics provides detailed information on Mosaics, Mosaic Tiles, Mosaic Arts, Mosaic Tables and more. Mosaics is affiliated with Ceramic Tile Design.

    Tuesday, June 17, 2008

    Everybody Feng Shui Tonight In The Garden

    Writen by Don Doman

    By accident I was fortunate enough to hear a talk about Feng Shui and gardens by author Gaylah Balter. There was more information than I could possibly assimilate, but since her advice and comments coincided with what I knew about Taoism and had seen on recent nature channel broadcasts I became immediately hooked.

    Gaylah Balter, author of Gardening With Soul, was inspirational. Although there were less than ten people in the lecturer's tent set up for more than a hundred at the Pt. Defiance Flower and Garden Show, and despite the fact that Gaylah was recovering from a prolonged illness and recovery, her eyes sparkled when she talked.

    Her revelations spoke louder than her whisper. A garden can be so much more than just a collection of plants, bushes, and shrubs. It can enrich your spirit and nurture your soul in many ways that delight the imagination. Feng Shui is the ancient Chinese art of placement. The goal of Feng Shui is to achieve harmony, comfort, and balance, first in our environment and then in our life.

    Gaylah says, "A garden can affect our physical well-being in many ways and on many levels. We can relieve stress, tension, and anxiety as the garden helps to restore balance and harmony to our busy lives, through hard physical labor and being outdoors and communing effortlessly with Nature and all her bounty." She handed out information paraphrasing as she went along, but was passing over a paragraph about emotions and senses.

    In the relaxed atmosphere I interrupted and asked a question, "Are you talking about wind chimes, colors, and water fountains?" "Yes," she replied, "and textures." My mind raced ahead. In a moment of enlightenment I saw images of the Portland Classical Chinese Garden combined with a cable television program on zoo animals.

    On two separate occasions I have visited the Portland Classical Chinese Garden and loved it both times. The walkways and common areas feature a rich mosaic of shaped stones. Beautiful courtyards appear that you can only see through foliage. Everywhere you are amazed by smells, colors, and sounds. You are whisked away to a garden a million miles away, and yet you're in downtown Portland just two blocks away from the Amtrak train station.

    Amazement with the environment is something new to zoo keepers. I've seen a nature show on zoos where the animals are allowed to find hidden treats: frozen fruit cocktails placed randomly and honey smeared tree stubs. The zoo workers play a kind of hide-and-seek with animal treats. The animals respond with joy.

    "Modern animal caregivers try to provide behaviorally appropriate environments including interesting objects to explore, suitable social companions, and room and reason to exercise. Enrichment of the environment has become a zoo staff specialty in itself, especially for the more social and intelligent species such as elephants, canids (wolves) and primates."
    -- Cambridge Center for Behavioral Studies

    We don't have a lot of money to spend for our garden, but after listening to Gaylah Balter, we have put some extra time in the development of our deck and garden areas. We have objects of found art and beauty scattered around in interesting places. We have a combination of smooth and textured pots. We are arriving at a nice relaxing harmony of random beauty. We haven't finished, yet . . . but at least we know the way.

    Don Doman is a published author, video producer, and corporate trainer. He owns the business training site Ideas and Training (http://www.ideasandtraining.com), which he says is the home of the no-hassle "free preview" for business training videos. He also owns Simple Home Repair (http://www.simplehomerepair.com), which has great DIY ideas for the home and garden.

    Monday, June 16, 2008

    Using Push Reel Mowers

    Writen by Jeff Boyd

    If you're not familiar with push reel mowers or if you haven't used one since "back in the day", there are a few points you should be aware of before using a push reel mower:

    • Don't expect to cut tall weeds or dandelions. You notice how your gas-powered mowers get a little "overwhelmed" when cutting weeds or very tall grass? Those issues are a bit worse with reel mowers because they become harder to push and they are limited in the height of what they can cut. When cutting with a power mower, you can tilt the mower in order to access hard-to-cut areas. That's not so with a reel mower, you can only cut grass below the cutting height bar.
    • Don't cut wet grass. The wheels need traction in order to move the blades and if the wheels are slipping, especially if you're cutting taller grass or weeds, the mowing becomes that much more difficult.

    So, in order to get the best use from your push reel mower, make sure you do the following:

    • Keep your grass cut often enough so that it's manageable and easier to cut using the reel mower.
    • Maintain a steady pace while cutting. If you keep pushing, stopping, then pushing again, it makes it more difficult to cut.
    • Insure the area to be cut is free from "harsh" debris, such as rocks, thick branches, and of course: pet waste.
    • When using the optional grass/leaf catcher, empty it often enough that pushing the mower doesn't become unmanageable.

    Jeff Boyd is the Owner of http://www.reelpushmowers.com, a supplier of Push Reel Mowers and accessories for the environmentally-conscious and health-conscious consumer.

    Sunday, June 15, 2008

    Set Yourself Apart Create Your Own Wind Chime Garden

    Writen by Stephen Betzen

    Wind chimes are an eclectic addition to any landscape. They add a dynamic element to yards that host flower gardens and water features and can accessorize walkways, herb gardens, and entry ways. There is no limit to how you can use wind chimes to enhance your backyard environment.

    If you are one who enjoys sound integrated into your outdoor view, you might want to consider creating a wind chime garden – it will set your view to music. A wind chime garden can cover the entire area of your back yard, or be limited to a small section of your backyard landscape – the choice is up to you. The beauty of a wind chime garden is that you can design it to be uniquely your own – you decide on wind chime placement, tone and style. Following are a few ideas to get you started thinking about how you might implement a wind chime garden into your outdoor scenery.

    1) Select spots for your wind chimes throughout your yard, paying close attention to the direction and patterns of the wind. Through proper placement, you could create your own gentle, whimsical outdoor concert.

    2) Choose wind chimes that are simple in appearance to void clashes in décor styles. This way, they will effortlessly blend in wherever they are placed. When it comes to wind chimes, it's more about the sound than the look. In fact, many of the more decorative types of wind chimes are not made in such a way that allows for the same pristine sound quality as those of a simple aluminum design.

    3) Create a wind chime garden by hanging your chimes at different heights. For example, place a set of wind chimes up on a deck, another in a smaller tree line and yet another among your flowers. The sound will dance with depth across your yard each time a breeze blows through.

    4) If you like the look of wind chimes and want them in your sight, hang them where they will reflect the sun as it comes up in the morning and moves down at night. Aluminum wind chime gardens go well with stone décor, flowing water (like in a water fall or a bird bath), and near evergreens.

    5) Sprinkle your wind chime garden with dream catchers, bird houses and sculptures. This will provide additional visual aesthetics while providing areas of mass for the wind chime sound to bounce off of – depending on the frequency and directions of your breezes, you could hear an entirely new sound when least expected.

    6) If you have a street that runs near your house carrying a lot of traffic noise, consider concentrating your wind chime garden on the side of your yard that borders that particular street. You might want to mingle taller flowers and designer grasses with bold toned wind chimes to create a sound barrier. Then, place lighter toned wind chimes nearer the house, radiating from the outside edge of the wind chime border. This additional placement of wind chimes will further soften any traffic sounds that do happen to make it through.

    7) Create a living wind chime garden by incorporating sight, sound, smell, and touch into a selected area – preferably the one you will spend the most time in. This can act a stress relieving vista – the place you go to unwind at the end of each day. Your wind chimes provide the sound and partner with the other elements in the area to form a pleasant sight. The scent sense can be aroused by floral elements and touch can be integrated into the wind chime garden in the form of comfortable seating. Light a large candle or burn a fire in a metal fire pit to create a romantic aura.

    8) Incorporate wind chimes in your flower garden on sections of wrought iron trellis or hang them inside the upper areas of a gazebo. Place them near doorways and breezeways for a special effect as guests come and go – wind chimes are quite welcoming upon arrival and a pleasant good-bye upon departure.

    9) Create an outdoor room, placing your wind chime garden in an area beyond the main seating area so that the chimes ring as gentle background music to engaging conversations or star gazing. What is an outdoor room? It is a concept that is growing in popularity -- a fully-furnished space, complete with a fire place or fire pit, a wet bar and even rugs. The area is "walled in" by trellises, potted plants, stone half-walls, etc. A wind chime garden that sits just beyond the "room" adds an unparalleled ambiance to an evening "out."

    Regardless of your preferred decorating style – whether it is southwest décor, country home décor, fen shui home decorating or something else – a wind chime garden can be a unique and relaxing part of your outdoor spaces. The best part of creating a wind chime garden is that you can make it as unique as you are. Show off your personality using the scents, sights, and sounds of nature and wind chimes as your personal creative tools.

    Tuned Wind Chimes Stephen Betzen is a loving husband/supporter/and friend to his wife Rachel Betzen. Rachel and Stephen are dedicated to socially and ethically responsible business practices. Lovers of gardening and simple living. They own and operate an online wind chimes store.

    Saturday, June 14, 2008

    Recipes For Concrete And Hypertufa

    Writen by Delmar Germyn

    This will not be THE list, but is a list of mixes that I use most. There are hundreds more and as you gain experience you will develop mixes of your own.

    For ornamental concrete casting you can forget about the "standard" mixes. There is to much aggregate in them. You want a fine mix that will bring out detail.

    Always mix the dry parts first, then add your water.

    CONCRETE

    Here are some to start you off...

    I - This is the one I use the most.

    1 - cement 3 - sand Enough water to get a pourable mix. Like pancake mix. You can change this to 2 parts sand if your mold has very fine detail. A better way is to try to get finer sand and stick with the 3 part mix.

    II - for stepping stones, curbs, and anything that will be subject to heavy traffic use this:

    1 - cement 2 - sand 3 - aggregate. Enough water to get a heavy mix. This is the "standard" mix. This should just barely pour. If you have to scoop it that is OK.

    HYPERTUFA

    I love this stuff...

    My favorite mix is..

    I-

    1 - cement 1 - peat moss 1 - sand Enough water to get a mix that you can pick up and form a ball with.

    A couple of notes:

    When buying peat, be sure it has no fertilizer added. Some does, and it will not cure properly.

    I have found it best to soak the peat overnight.

    II-

    You can replace the peat with potting mix. Be sure there is no fertilizer. Potting mix has Perlite in it and makes an interesting textured surface.

    III-

    1 - cement 1 - Vermiculite 1 - sand 1 - peat This is a real nice mix with an interesting surface when dry.

    I have used wood shavings, paper out of the shredder, sawdust, and even lawn clippings.

    Anything dry I always soak for at least 12 hours before using.

    Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All Rights Reserved.

    Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

    My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

    YOU WILL FIND....

    Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

    Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

    Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

    Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

    All the information on the site is free to use and share.

    Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

    I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

    By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

    Friday, June 13, 2008

    Teak Outdoor Benches Fantastic Seating For Your Patio And Garden

    Writen by Jennifer Akre

    Teak Outdoor Benches are the finest outdoor furniture, famous for its grandeur and permanence. Patio furniture made from teak is hugely preferred among consumers due to the beauty and durability of the individual pieces. It is the reason that a wide variety of outdoor furniture is made using teak. This outdoor furniture can range from teak Adirondack chairs, classic teak chairs, coffee or patio tables, chaise lounges, benches and gliders.

    The best thing about teak wood furniture is that it is resistant to vagaries of climatic conditions. It is termite proof and lasts in varying climates and weather conditions. Teak patio furniture is better than any other available furniture on the market and outlasts most other types of wood furnishings, and is worth every penny.

    Teak is a long lasting, durable hardwood, grown in semi-tropical climates. It is a dense wood, and has a high oil content, which helps it withstand the elements in the outdoor environment. The main quality or asset of this wood is that it offers time less beauty, durability and style to make the teak patio furniture the envy of one's neighbors.

    The teak patio furniture not only affords us comfort, it also adds style and fashion to gardens tended with loving care. Such furniture is naturally beautiful and blends brilliantly with the surroundings, giving us and our guests a feeling of being closer to the nature. We can also augment the atmosphere of our patio with trellises, planters, screens, and other teak decorative pieces to go with our furniture.

    The greatest advantage of outdoor teak benches and teak loungers is that one won't worry during harsh weather conditions like we might have to worry with other wood products. In spite of these amazing qualities, after buying the teak patio furniture, one has to be knowledgeable about the maintenance and look after of their patio furniture. There are various Teak Outdoor Benches cleaners and oils to keep the chairs and tables looking hydrated and looking fresh for years to come.

    It is ones preference to buy exquisite teak patio furniture separately or else purchase complete Teak Outdoor Benches set with a table and chairs. You may also check out other accessories for your patio such as a patio umbrella and a gazebo.

    Don't wait for summer to by pass you-decorate your backyard suitably; be a part of your surroundings and feel closer to the nature.

    Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous furniture websites, makes it easy to find a quality lovely outdoor bench and stylish indoor benches. Learn how to decorate your patio and home in style by clicking the following link: http://www.SimplyBenches.com.

    Selling Your House Mow Your Lawn

    Writen by Jan Nicholas

    A property that has a well manicured lawn has one of the best chances at showing pride in ownership than any other outdoor technique.

    For one thing, there is a large upswing in the priority that homeowners place in their outdoor living spaces.

    Therefore, the landscaping of your front yard (especially) as well as that of your back yard should look its very best when it's selling time. Your landscaping will make a huge contribution to the resale value of your home, so make sure that it's doing its best to help you out.

    In fact, studies have shown that when the landscaping of a home is in excellent condition, it can sell for about 4 to 5 percent higher, while homes with landscaping in very poor condition can sell for 8 to 10 percent less. That's a huge difference in the overall selling price of your home.

    You might be wondering exactly how much time you should dedicate to sprucing up the landscape of your property. How much time and money is worth it for your sale?

    Even if you put a minimal amount of money, effort, and time in to your landscaping, it will help you in selling your home, and perhaps even getting a boost in the selling price. Every effort you make will help.

    However, don't overdo it. Remember that it's not a selling feature; it's only something to help the overall appeal of your property, so that the other selling features will be better appreciated.

    You should keep your lawn mowed so that it is even, and neatly short. Keep it well weeded, as these will only appear as blemishes to your landscaping. Make sure to use a weed eater to do the edges, as this gives your work a superior finish touch.

    If there are any "bald" patches in your lawn, buy a small bag of seed and care for the spot, filling it in. This is especially important if you have a dog who digs or who leaves "pet damage" where s/he does his or her business.

    After you fill in the dead spots that your dog has left, make sure to water the areas after your dog "waters," to prevent new dead patches from forming. Watering the areas will dilute the urine to stop it from burning the grass.

    This effort makes an immeasurable difference in the overall neatness of the house, and the impression that it will leave potential buyers.

    Are you looking for more landscaping and gardening tips and tricks? Head over to http://www.gardenarticles.com today.

    Thursday, June 12, 2008

    Say Your Feelings With Flowers Flower Meaning

    Writen by Katrin Konno

    A selection of common flowers/plants and their (sometimes forgotten) meanings

    Flower meanings from apple tree blossoms to Zinnia. This list of flowers gives you a good start on understanding the most popular flower meanings.

    * Apple tree blossom - preference;
    * Lemon balm - sympathy;
    * Basilica - hatred;
    * Calla - feminine beauty;
    * Damascene rose - shy love;
    * Fuchsia - humble love;
    * Gardenia - ecstasy;
    * Hyacinth - sorrow;
    * Lilac - first feeling of love;
    * Horehound - virtue;
    * Indian cress - patriotism;
    * Pansy - you fill my thoughts;
    * Buttercup (crowfoot) - you are attractive;
    * Rosemary - memory;
    * Salvia - respect;
    * Snowberry - heavenly thoughts;
    * Viola (violet) - loyalty;
    * Zinnia - thoughts of far away friends;
    * Forget-me-not - will write;
    * Lily - soon you'll meet;
    * Marsh marigold - hatred;
    * Rose - love;
    * Dianthus - he/she likes you;
    * Phlox & Gladiolus - getting married;
    * Tulip - wants to meet you;
    * Narcissus - asks a question;
    * Hepatica - your love makes me happy;
    * Globeflower - forever yours. *

    Rose color meanings:

    * Red rose - love, beauty, courage, respect;
    * White rose - purity and innocence, silence, secrecy;
    * Pink rose - appreciation, grace, perfect happiness, admiration;
    * Yellow rose - joy, friendship, delight, promise of a new beginning;
    * Orange rose - desire, enthusiasm;
    * Red and white rose - given together, these signify unity;
    * Red rosebud - a symbol of purity and loveliness;
    * White rosebud - a symbol of girlhood. *

    There are a lot more flowers and meaning(s) given to them. Sometimes the meanings differ from location to location. This list should give you a good start on understanding the most popular flower meanings. Remember, the best gifts are personal and that's what makes them memorable!

    Flowers make a perfect gift and now you know why.

    More Flowers and Gift Ideas from MyGiftGadgets.com Contact - admin@mygiftgadgets.com

    Wednesday, June 11, 2008

    Patio Design Add Awnings As A Colorful Finish For Your Patio Design

    Writen by Rika Susan

    Patio design, planned with care and creativity, not only becomes a value-adding asset to your home, but expands your living and entertainment areas substantially. Elements such as awnings will complement any patio design, adding both color and protection against the powers of nature.

    Your patio design will depend on the area you have available, the maintenance-level you prefer, and your lifestyle needs.

    You may need some serious landscaping, and choose complicated water features. Or you may have only a limited space, and an even more limited budget. A patio doesn't have to be oversized, in order to be functional. A competent landscaping designer will be able to present you with a patio design, perfect for your pocket and property.

    You can draw on a wealth of ideas while planning your patio design. Magazines are an excellent source of inspiration. The idea is to make the patio an extension of your home. To achieve this ideal, the patio design has to blend in with the design of your living space. This includes the architecture, as well as the interior décor.

    A number of paving possibilities are available. Concrete patio pavers or interlocking patio pavers are extremely popular, affordable, and durable. These come in sizes, shapes, and textures to fit from a simple patio design, to an elaborate landscaped outdoor area.

    Stone or brick patios are another viable option, especially if durability is a concern. If you choose a stone patio, make sure that the pavers have been fired in such a way that they are weather resistant. A wooden deck has its place in patio design, but also has limitations with respect to lifespan and maintenance. However, if the planned patio area is sloped, or has drainage problems, a deck may be a simple solution.

    The features you incorporate into your patio design, create atmosphere. A water feature facilitates a feeling of tranquility and relaxation. Another advantage is that it helps to mask noise, such as passing traffic. You may choose to add an herb garden, with lavender and other fragrant, calming plants. Flower beds or boxes can be a source of greenery and color.

    The patio furniture you choose, will depend on your personal taste and budget. Keep in mind that exposure to sun and showers necessitates quality materials.

    Colorful canvas awnings add an elegant finishing touch to your patio design. To use your extended 'living room' to the fullest, it is vital to have protection against the sun, wind, rain, and worrisome insects. Awnings made with quality fabric offer UV protection, are weather resistant, and waterproof. Look for models that can be retracted when you want to bask in a bit of sunshine, or when you want to enjoy the company of the moon and stars on a romantic evening out...

    Some awning designs make provision for an extra screen that can be added, which will give you an insect-free zone. You will be able to relax and enjoy visiting with guests, while nasties such as mosquitoes and flies are kept at bay.

    One of the best investments you can make in your property, is the addition of a harmonious patio, done within the guidelines of a well-planned patio design.

    For more information read Patio Awning And Window Blinds Add To Aesthetics And Appreciation at http://www.Awnings-and-Blinds.com.

    Rika Susan of Article-Alert.com researches, writes, and publishes full-time on the Web. Copyright of this article: 2006 Rika Susan. This article may be reprinted if the resource box and hyperlinks are left intact.

    Tuesday, June 10, 2008

    Weed Control Using Landscape Fabrics

    Writen by Bill Prudehome

    Choosing the correct landscape fabric for weed control can be a very time consuming and frustrating exercise, as anyone who has gone through the process will gladly confirm. The manufacturers of landscaping fabrics produce and publish specifications; however the major problem is that their largest market is construction. Hence, they produce their specifications with the construction market in mind. If you have an unlimited amount of time and a lot of patients you can read through all of the manufacturers' specifications and try to garner some useful comparison information that will be useful in weed control and prevention.

    When choosing a fabric for landscaping, there are three primary areas to consider:

    1. The strength of the fabric is relative to the amount of air and water flow that will permeate through the fabric. Stronger materials allow less water and air to flow through the fabric. When choosing a fabric for your landscaping project you should identify one that has adequate strength for the application, any additional strength is counter productive and will cost you more.
    2. You want to choose a fabric that has a consistent and even dispersal of fibers. The mesh size should be as small as possible in order to prevent weedy grasses from penetrating the fabric's openings. Weeds and grasses do not grow through the fabric they are attracted by any minute quantities of light that may penetrate the openings between the weave in the fabric or in separations that have occurred between pieces of fabric. Weeds can germinate in the smallest amount of soil and hence will grow on top of the fabric, if there are the tiniest amounts of earth, sending fine root hairs through the fabrics weave on a quest for nutrients and moisture from the soil. To prevent weed and grass growth appearing through the fiber's weave consider the use of a spunbonded fabric because of its microscopic mesh size.
    3. There is a fine balancing act with respect to the porosity of the landscaping fabric. You want the mesh to be fine enough to prevent weed and grass growth but you want the holes in the mesh to be large enough to provide sufficient water and air to enter the soil. The fabric's ability to breath; to allow oxygen and moisture to pass through the fabric and aerate and water the soil so that the plants will be hardy and not starved of essential life sustaining material. It is this feature that separates the average landscaping fabrics from the superior ones. This is why the use of plastic sheeting as a weed deterrent does not work. It may prevent the growth of weeds and grasses but it also prevents air and water from entering the soil. A fabric that does not have good permeability will create the problems of water run off which will wash away any coverings such as bark or mulch that may be lying on the surface of the fabric.

    For additional information on landscaping your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

    Mini Bonsai How They Differ From Regular Bonsai

    Writen by April Kerr

    In ancient Japan, the art of bonsai sculpting emerged. Normally we think the bonsai trees are small by their nature, however this is not the case. The bonsai tree artist has to prune and train these ordinary trees and plants to achieve the desired effect. The mini bonsai takes this concept even further and is so small could fit in your pocket.

    It may be a surprise to know that to create a miniature bonsai you do not need to use a traditional bonsai plant. If you do your research you will find there are lots of other species that are suitable

    Caring for your Mini Bonsai

    Looking after your mini bonsai needn't be more difficult to look after than a regular bonsai. Keep caring for the mini bonsai in the same way as a regular bonsai. For instance, don't treat your mini deciduous bonsai any differently from your regular deciduous bonsai. Keep the same watering habits and use the exact same soil.

    The only real difference between caring for your mini bonsai is you require a much smaller pot. This does not mean you should neglect your repotting duties however. Remember that if you are repotting you should avoid doing this within a month either side of pruning. Your don't want to cause your bonsai any shock.

    Make sure you have read up on how much sun your bonsai variety needs. If they are given too much or too little sun this could cause them to become unhealthy or even die. Make sure that the soil does not dry out during the hotter months by giving them more shade.

    If you enjoy growing and looking after bonsai trees, it is suggested that you read up as much as you can on the subject. Joining a club is a great way to share tips and make friends. If you there are no bonsai clubs in your area, why not start one?

    If you already are experienced in caring for bonsai plants, looking after a mini bonsai could give you that extra little challenge. Make sure you look after your mini bonsai as it will help you develop your pruning skills further than you can with a regular sized bonsai.

    http://www.bonsaitreecare.org provides care hints and tips to people who want to learn more about the art of the bonsai tree.

    Monday, June 9, 2008

    Fish Health In Hot Summer Heat

    Writen by Brett Fogle

    Summer is over, but for many of us - the heat remains. Here a couple of things to do to keep your fish healthy and your pond clear going into winter. First, remember to keep your pond well aerated. This is very important to your fish because the pond water actually holds less oxygen at higher pond temperatures. So if it's still hot in your part of the country, keep those waterfalls and fountains running! This will keep your pond water full of oxygen, and reduce stress on your fish.

    If you see your goldfish or KOI gasping at the surface, it's a good sign that you don't have enough dissolved oxygen in the water, and this can be dangerous. Especially if you have a lot of green water algae in the pond. This algae can absorb much of the oxygen in the pond water at night and cause very low dissolved oxygen levels during the day - which can be deadly to fish!

    One thing we recommend this time of year, is to do a partial water change. Drain off 10 - 25% of your total pond volume, and replace it with fresh, new dechlorinated water. If possible, vacuum or drain decaying organic matter and debris off the bottom to reduce the ponds bio-load.

    Your fish will usually be vibrant and playful after a water change. It's like giving them a 'breath of fresh air' and invigorates them. Again, we only recommend a 10 - 25% water change right now - but feel free to experiment with whatever works best for your pond.

    Remember to re-add your pond salt whenever you drain and add new water. Having a salt water test kit is also helpful, or a digital salinity meter, to determine optimum salt levels.

    **************************************************
    Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
    other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
    and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
    newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
    9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
    'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
    **************************************************

    Sunday, June 8, 2008

    What You Need To Know About Planting Roses

    Writen by David Chandler

    When spring arrives, and the ground is thawed, it is time to start planting your rose garden. Roses date back to biblical times and have been a considered a cherished aphrodisiac then and still are today. Roses hold particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact that they just look and smell good!

    Roses require 4 to 6 hours of sunlight everyday. It is preferable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush because most of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle its growth. If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1 1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed and fresh soil added to replace it.

    When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, consider the growth habit of the rose. For example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them free range of growth, and optimal potential for the biggest and showiest blooms.

    Roses also look beautiful in island beds mixed with perennials. Miniature roses make great edging plants in front of their taller cousins. Planted singly, shrub roses make excellent specimen plants or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage unsightly garden objects.

    Dig a hole large enough for the root mass and loosen the bottom of the hole. You should add bone meal, which is a slow acting source of phosphorus that leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant. Special care should be taken with the planting depth. It varies according to the climate you live in. If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with the people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level.

    The plant should be placed in the hole carefully, and the hole refilled with soil, covering the roots completely. Before making the final covering, water the rose plant and let it absorb the water. After this, water the plant more and mound the soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves open.

    The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature. Where temperatures do not drop below -10 degrees F; either fall or spring planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures go below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferred. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container-grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.

    Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow as large as in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1 1/2 to 3 feet apart. Large vigorous growers, such as hybrid perpetual need 3 to 5 feet of space, and the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.

    If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthy if proper care is taken. The gardener must prepare for that cold, wet reality as he revels in the summer air conditioning.

    In zones 7 and colder, the roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15 to limit the emergence of new rose canes, which will almost certainly not survive the winter.

    For more information about roses, visit Rose Garden or Garden Center

    Saturday, June 7, 2008

    Free Landscape Designs

    Writen by Eric Morris

    Free landscape designs can serve as a good reference to gather ideas for your land. Especially if you do not have much time to invest in thinking of a design and layout for your landscape, it is preferable to find ideas from other landscape designs. The pictures and information is available either on the Internet or in catalogs and magazines.

    The Internet is full of advice and tips on designing your landscape. After you have chalked out the area to be landscaped, you can plan how you want it to look. While having a look at free designs, ensure that they suit the architecture of your building and merge with its backdrop. If you like the landscape design, check that its size is similar to your land size. Otherwise, the design and layout may not look nice on your land. Check what accessories are used in the landscape design. It would be better to shortlist what types of plants, trees, water bodies, pathways and lighting you require, and then find matching designs. This way you need not look at irrelevant or unsuitable plans.

    There are even some free landscape design software programs also available, like Smartdraw, that let you design your land from scratch. All information related to landscape designs, like shapes, styles, methodology and plants, is also available in abundance. So if you can invest some time, you can gain access to this information for free. Otherwise you can get these inputs from landscape design books, but they will cost money. In case you only want to pick an idea from other landscape designs, there are lots of photos you can find on sites like About.com. So it is better to go through these designs and analyze their pros and cons so you can pick up the best-suited design for your landscape. It can be quick and cost-effective for you.

    Landscape Design provides detailed information on Landscape Design, Landscape Design Software, Free Landscape Designs, Landscape Design Plans and more. Landscape Design is affiliated with Landscaping Ideas.