Caring For Your Private Pond

Writen by Anne Clarke

The first point I need to make about pond care in autumn leaves that fall into the pond will decay if not removed. Perhaps you can skim the surface of your pond to remove them. However, this method of pond care—once fall is really kicking in—may have to be done many times throughout the same day.

One better idea, in my opinion, for keeping falling leaves out of your pond is to purchase a cover for it. Perhaps just a small canvas big enough to cover the water, nothing fancy, you can set it up with stakes or stones.

If you do not, there will be a nasty buildup of slime, decay of water plants and other plant debris, and you will certainly have your work cut out for you. Therefore, you need to perform the proper pond care techniques to keep your pond from becoming an enormous chore to prepare when the warm seasons begin.

If you have fish in the water, for great pond care, be sure to feed them less. This is because when the cold approaches the fish will eat less due to a slowing metabolism. Extra fish food in your pond can contribute to the bacterial problems that often develop during the winter. Someone who wants to provide great pond care for his or her pond will want to make sure that, by using good pond care, he or she will keep as few bacterial sources away from the water as he or she possibly can.

For your fishes, pond care is very important. You can provide foods for your fish, which contain a protein content of twenty-five to thirty-two percent. A wheat germ based food is good fish pond care. During this time of year the food easily digested.

Pond care spring and autumn food is an excellent choice for you to maintain your pond at this time of year. When you practice the proper pond care, you will definitely be glad you did.

These are only some of the guidelines for pond care. Depending on your individual pond care needs, the advice I have just given may vary. For example: even if you have no fish in your pond, certain pond care is still especially important.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on gardening and landscaping, please visit Pond Care.

A Look At Fall Flower Bulbs

Writen by Seth Miller

Most people would think of fall as a season when trees are changing colors and dying. For many, the autumn leaves are our last dance with color before the dark, gray winter sets in. It doesn't have to be that way, though. Fall flowers can offer a splash of rebirth and color in a season otherwise known for falling leaves.

Bulbs are living plants and contain their own storage of food. They are quite self-sufficient and will strive to bloom, no matter when or where they are planted. Fall flower bulbs are planted in the spring or summer and flower in the early fall. Some examples are lilacs, colchicums, and saffron crocuses. The colchicums are extremely unusual in that they will bloom without being planted, though they do need soil to develop roots.

When selecting fall flower bulbs, you should look for bulbs that are firm and free of visible defects. If you desire large flowers, buy large bulbs. Small bulbs will produce smaller flowers.

Most fall flower bulbs cannot survive the winter. These have to be dug up each fall and stored until planting time. Bulbs should be stored in a cool, dry place. A dry basement is ideal. If you do not have a basement, a dark, unheated closet or utility room will also work.

For individual planting directions, use your package. Most bulbs grow best in well-drained, loose soil. Standing water or excessively moist soil will cause bulbs to rot. Do not plant bulbs at the bottom of a hill.

Bulbs should be planted six to eight inches in the soil. Cover and pack firmly. After planting, water your bulbs thoroughly. Water them occasionally, and they should bloom in early autumn.

Flower Bulbs Info provides detailed information on wholesale, discount, spring, summer, and fall flower bulbs for sale, flower bulb catalog and company information, and advice on planting flower bulbs. Flower Bulbs Info is the sister site of Flower Delivery Web.

Soil Basics Creating Fertile Healthy Soil

Writen by Francis Kilkelly

Have you ever looked at the soil in your garden and considered it as anything more than soil? If not you should because there is a lot more there than meets the eye. It performs many functions that you may not be aware of and having good quality soil in your garden is essential for your plants. In this article we will look at the functions of soil, what different types there are and finally some ways to make it healthier.

Functions of Soil
The most immediately apparent function of soil is a medium to support plant life. It provides support both physically and biologically. Physical support is provided by allowing the plant to grow its roots through the soil to hold itself in place. Biological support is provided by its ability to hold nutrients and water that the plant needs. It also supports other types of life as well. Microorganisms and insects live in the soil and they in turn aid plant life by helping to decay organic material and adding structure to the soil. Soil allows the growth of food crops which are consumed by humans and also plants used in the creation of medicines. Microorganisms like fungi and bacteria that live in soil and are used to produce antibiotics. All life on earth is dependant on it either directly and indirectly. This includes the plant life in your garden.

What is Soil Made of?
The four major components of soil are mineral matter, organic matter (humus), water and air. Mineral matter refers to the inorganic elements in the soil e.g. stones, gravel and makes up to 40%-60% of its volume. This part of the soil usually originates from the bedrock that lies beneath the soil. Organic matter (humus) is the decayed remains and waste products of plants and animals and has a great effect on the chemical properties of the soil e.g. availability of nutrients. Almost 40%-60% of a soil's volume can be space and this is occupied by water and air.

Different Types of Soil Texture
Soil texture is defined as the size distribution of different mineral particles. These mineral particles are at their most basic level the following: sand, silt and clay. Sand particles are 2 to 0.05 mm diameter, silt particles are 0.05 to 0.002 mm diameter and clay particles are <0.002 mm diameter. Combination of these particles exhibit different properties in soil and some combinations favour plant life better than others. The following are the most common classes of soil texture:

Clay soil
Contains a high percentage of clay particles and feels lumpy to the touch. The small size of the clay particles means that they clump together quite readily and there is less room for air spaces. Consequently clay soils have poor drainage and do not hold nutrients very well. This is a heavy soil and is sticky when wet making it hard to work with. As much as possible you should take steps to improve the drainage of this type of soil. You will learn how later on in this article.

Silty soil
Contains a high percentage of silt particles and feels smooth to the touch. This soil is a well drained soil due to the size of the particles allowing space for water to permeate. This soil holds nutrients more readily than clay soil due to the spaces. It is easy to cultivate but can be compacted quite easily.

Sandy soil
Contains a high percentage of sand particles and feels gritty to the touch, Allows for quite a lot of space in between particles and as a result is very free draining. This has its disadvantages however as it does not hold water and essential nutrients can get washed away.

Loamy soil
This is the best type of soil texture you can have in your garden. This is soil whose properties are controlled equally by the percentages of clay, silt and sand particles. It is well drained but does not loose water too easily as is the case with sandy and sometimes silty soils. The fact that it retains water means it also retains nutrients for your plants to use. It has a great structure and is easy to cultivate.

What Makes a Soil Healthy?
Healthy soil must be fertile and have a good structure.

For a soil to be fertile it must have nutrients readily available and a pH value at a recommended level for the plants that will reside in it. Nutrients that should be available are the essential nutrients nitrogen (leaf growth), phosphorous (root growth) and phosphorous (overall health). As well as the essential nutrients there should also be trace elements like calcium and magnesium. The pH level of the soil refers to its acidity or alkalinity and each plant has its own preferred value range. Plants placed into fertile soil will grow up to be very strong and healthy specimens (that is if other conditions like light levels and climate are favourable as well).

The other determiner of a healthy soil is its texture. We learned about different types of soil texture earlier in this article. Soil having a loamy texture is the healthiest and it should be strived for if at all possible. In general a soil that retain nutrients and allow water and air to permeate it will be beneficial for the life of your plants.

How to Create Healthy Soil
No matter what type of soil you have the addition of organic matter will work wonders for its health. Organic matter is plant and animal residues in varying forms of decomposition. It will replenish the nutrients in your soil and improve its texture. You may have heard countless times about adding your leftovers and glass clippings to a compost heap. This is a great idea as your compost is the best form of organic matter. Compost in an advanced stage of decomposition (dark and without smell) is magic for your soil. It encourages microorganism activity causing soil particles to clump together and form aggregates. The aggregates allows for spaces in the soil therefore increasing its drainage. This is especially beneficial for clay soils, which have poor drainage. Other forms of organic matter are animal manure and peat moss.

If your soil is lacking in nutrients and you don't have access to a compost heap you have a choice of using inorganic or organic fertilizers. Inorganic fertilizers (inorganic salts, manufactured chemically) can be purchased at your local garden and are applied in a dry form that is raked lightly at the base of a plant or in a liquid form. While inorganic fertilizers will work fine they have a number of disadvantages: they release their nutrients too quickly and there is some evidence to show that plants develop a resistance to inorganic fertilizer methods over time, requiring more and more to achieve the same effect. Organic fertilizers are more in tune with nature because they are created from the remains or by-product of an organism. They act slower but they 'amend' the soil rather than the quick 'feeding' it like inorganic fertilizers.

The pH of your soil will also affect its fertility. Each plant has its own preferred pH value range. To learn more pH and how to change it read my Soil pH article here: http://www.gardenstew.com/blog/e3-9-soil-ph-and-its-effect-on-your-garden.html.

Conclusion
Soil like a lot of things in the garden requires maintenance. We have learned about the different types of soil texture, what constitutes a fertile, healthy soil and how to create it if it does not exist. The next step is to step out into your garden, take a look at your soil and help your plants out if your soil is of a poor quality. Your plants will thank you ten-fold believe me. Good luck!

Visit the home and gardening forum at GardenStew.com or start your free home and garden blog.

Original article location: Soil Basics - Creating Fertile, Healthy Soil

More gardening articles

The Best Flowers For Spring

Writen by Jennifer Houck

After a long, cold winter, you are probably anxious for the first signs of spring. Springtime automatically brings thoughts of flowers. Choosing the best flowers for spring can be difficult and it is often confusing. Perhaps the most effective way to ensure spring flowers that bloom each year is to plant bulbs in the fall to mid-winter. There are of course flowering plants that you can purchase from your local nursery, but you will want to make sure any chance of freezing weather has passed before planting and in many areas of the country, spring does not arrive until late in the season and by that time you will want to plants flowers in anticipation of summer. You always have the option of purchasing bulbs that have been grown in pots over the winter and are in stock in most garden centers beginning in the late winter months. Here are a few choices of flowering plants that are suitable to plant now and will produce early spring flower:

Winter Aconite, or Eranthis hyemalis, will give you yellow flowers approximately three inches in height and resemble common buttercups. These particular bulbs may begin to flower as early as January if you live in a warm area and you will get the best results if you plant them in masses as they grow low to the ground.

Glory Of The Snow, or Chionodoxa luciliare, produce flowers that are bright blue with a white center. The plants will grow between six and ten inches tall, making this particular plant very handy for walkways, borders, and rock gardens. You may also be able to find white/pink varieties depending on the area in which you live

Spring Snowflake, or leucojum vernum, give you bell-shaped flowers that droop from the green part of the plant. These plants will be six to twelve inches in height and are white in color with small green spots on the ends of the petals. You will get the best results if you plant them in clumps and you can expect to see blooms in late February to early March. As with any other springtime bulb, they are best planted in the fall but you can plant in the mid to late winter if you purchase potted bulbs that have already begun the growing cycle.

Netted Iris, or iris reticulate, are wonderfully scented and are most commonly purple in color, although you can also find light blue and white irises in many areas. Irises are one of the earliest blooming plants and you can expect a beautiful display of flowers in early March. As with any other type of bulb, after several growing seasons you will have to thin the bulbs from time to time, as they tend to reproduce rapidly and could actually begin to stunt the growth of the plants due to over-crowding.

Jennifer Houck is the owner of http://www.bestflowergrowers.com, the Best Flower resource for learning how to grow your flowers. Learn what foods to feed, when to plant flowers and how to design a flower garden.

Pest Controlyour Cabinets Contain Easy Solutions

Writen by Stephanie McIntyre

Do you have garden or landscape pests that you want to eliminate but don't like environmentally questionable commercial products? Well, you don't have to use hazardous or poisonous chemicals to rid your home of pests and weeds. You may have ingredients in your home right now you can use to get rid of unwanted pests.

For example, you can use beer to kill snail and slugs. Sink a saucer or other shallow container until the rim is level with the ground and fill with beer. The slugs and snails are attracted to the beer. They will crawl in and drown. Change the beer every few days so that it remains effective.

Compost and manure teas can help keep pathogens (including blight) away from plants. Just fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and let stand for 24 hours to remove additives. Add a quart or 2 of good compost or manure and let sit for 1 or 2 days, stirring on occasion. Strain and drench the plant areas or thoroughly spray leaves including the undersides. This also gives plants a safe natural feeding.

Use a mixture of garlic and hot peppers to make a pest repellent. Chop up and mix together some garlic cloves and jalapeno or other hot peppers (or hot pepper sauce). Put in a spray bottle and add water. Spray tops and undersides of leaves to create a barrier for all kinds of destructive pests.

Baking soda can be used to make an effective treatment for mold, mildew and fungus. If you have any of these problems, mix a tablespoon of baking soda, 1 gallon of water and 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil. Fill a spray bottle with this mixture and spray plants, making sure to cover completely because some of these problems can exist where you can't see them.

For problems with leafspot, scab, black spot and mildew, mix 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar with a gallon of water. Spray infested plants (best time is in the morning).

Hydrogen peroxide can be used to prevent bacterial and fungal problems in your garden. It keeps diseases spores from adhering to plants. Use common drug store peroxide. Spray plant with undiluted peroxide (after testing a small area on the plant for adverse reactions), covering the entire plant. It works as both preventative and as a treatment for existing problems. Don't use on immature plants and seedlings until they mature.

A 50/50 mixture of milk and water is a great mildew preventative and treatment. Spray weekly to prevent mildew or thoroughly spray at the first sign and every 3 days as treatment.

Boiling water will kill any weed it's poured on. A teakettle can be filled and when boiling use to direct a lethal stream of water onto unwanted plants in the garden. Vinegar is another weed killer. It should be used with caution as it can change your soil's ph.

There are many more homemade recipes and formulas you can make to handle many garden problems. Experiment to see what works for you.

Find more info on pests and pest control

Planning Your Garden From Scratch The Basics

Writen by Michael Russell

Planning a garden is relatively easy if you have a "blank canvas" on which to draw your design, although there are still plenty of things to consider if you don't want to wish later that you'd done more planning and less doing! One of the major considerations is how much time you can or want to spare to look after your garden.

The Boundary

Assuming that you have neighbours and need or want to demark your boundary, what do you want to look at? Trees? A hedge? A fence? Let's consider a few alternatives.

• Wire fence - not pretty but you can grow climbing plants up it and bushes in front and eventually, it will become invisible (and so will your neighbours).
• Wood panel fencing - not too bad to look at but you will need to paint or spray on some sort of preservative. Creosote is quite cheap but smells horrible and damages plants (don't forget there may be some on the other side of the fence). Other preservatives cost a bit more but come in a variety of colours so you can have a light or dark wood or even green or blue if you want. This will need redoing every couple of years depending on weather conditions where you live. If you have concrete posts and the panels need replacing, you can just slide the old ones out and the new ones in. Wooden posts need to be embedded in cement as do concrete ones but wooden ones frequently rot so you will need to replace the post and dig out and replace the cement.
• Wooden rail and overlapping plank fencing - each plank needs to be nailed to the horizontal rails. It looks nice but also needs a protective coating. It can be cheap and easy to repair if only a few planks rot at a time.
• A hedge. No matter what you choose in terms of hedge plants, you will need to clip your hedge at least once a year to keep it tidy. When choosing, you need to decide whether you want evergreen or deciduous, how tall you want it to be, what soil it needs and how quickly you want it to grow. My advice would be to choose something which will grow to the required height and no more and only needs annual pruning. Don't forget that conifers such as Leylandii grow very quickly and can lose foliage at the bottom if they're not kept in check. In addition, nothing else will grow below them and they may well end up blocking out both your and your neighbours' light, particularly if your garden is not large.

Grass

Do you want a lawn? Bear in mind that it will need watering in dry spells, feeding about twice a year, mowing at least once a week in the growing season (including tidying up the edges), aerating occasionally, scarifying to remove the dead bits underneath and worse still, kept weed free. On the plus side, mowing etc. can be very therapeutic and satisfying, a well-kept lawn is lovely underfoot and much nicer to look at than concrete. Of course you can always invest in Astroturf for the same effect!

Hard Landscaping

If you ever saw the popular TV series "Ground Force", you will know that there are endless possibilities for hard landscaping. You can have a paved patio or a wooden deck, raised flower beds of stone or brick, or terraced flower beds and steps if your garden slopes. Ou can have paths of gravel or pebbles or coloured slate or stepping stones. You can have pebbly or gravelled areas with artistic arrangements of plant-filled pots, coloured china balls and any other garden ornament you can think of. How about a deck or other seating area away from the house to catch the last of the evening sun?

Decorative Bits and Hiding Horrors

Right at the start is a good time to decide on other structures too. Are you going to grow climbers? How about a pergola or an archway? Do you want trelliswork? Where are you going to keep that mower and all the other tools you'll need? A garden shed? One of those plastic cabinets? Do you want this storage to be visible or nicely camouflaged? Are you going to grow vegetables and if so, do you want your veg bed and/or greenhouse hidden behind some nice climbers? After all, tomatoes and runner beans may taste good but they're not very attractive to gaze at over your well-earned glass of wine at the end of a hard day's gardening!

Watch out for the next article on choosing your planting.

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Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Gardening
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Iris Flowers Remind Me Of Mom

Writen by Stewart Alexander

Iris flowers always bring memories of mom to mind. Let me share with you three reasons why...

• Iris flowers are naturally beautiful
• Iris flowers posses the ability to survive in all kinds of hazardous environments
• The sweet scent from some iris flowers remind me of mom's perfume as a kid.

My First Iris Flower Experience:

Now apart from the subtle mom reminders, iris flowers (in my opinion), have got to be some of the most beautiful you could ever imagine.

After locating a place in my garden for them, I soon discovered how fast they can grow. They showed no shame in overtaking the rest of the garden and all that was planted in it.

Now if you're new to the world of iris flowers, then you'll soon begin to feel like a kid in a candy store. There are literally hundreds of different types to enjoy, so you'll always be spoilt for choice.

And what's best of all is...

• They're really easy to grow
• look great in your flower beds
• and even better around your customized rock gardens

What I love the most about iris flowers are the three gorgeous looking petals, which some people call the standards... as well as three more outer petals to match. They're called the falls.

Have you ever seen a flower with a beard?

Well, brace yourself because these babys come come complete with as much hair as on my Aunt Grace's chin! Sorry Autie Grace.

All fun aside, they are different types of bearded iris flowers that exist. Remember the the three outer petals I told you about earlier on, well these hairs grow in the center.

And that's not all l love about Iris flowers...

Any experienced iris flower grower will tell you that iris flowers can last for years. Isn't that something? Imagine being able to enjoy the sights, colors and smells of your irises for years to come. Wouldn't that be great?

So, it's worth spending some quality time picking an area in your garden, or whatever location you fancy, where they will thrive and survive. Once you've done this, the most work you'll have left is thinning and dividing...

And your thinning and dividing efforts will normally take place in the late summer season. It's about the best time of year to start when your iris flowers start running amok.

Another thing which I've noticed about iris flowers, especially of the bearded type is their pratical use when creating some kind of border, or shading for a specific area.

Here, you are only limited to your own imagination.

About the Author:

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Stewart Alexander is the owner and Author of "Iris Flower Gardens." An amazing eBook that covers nearly everthing you need to know about growing the most beautiful iris flowers iris flower

What's the MAIN thing you'd like to know about iris flowers? For quick answers and a FREE eBook (for a limited time only) visit this site now: http://www.irisflowergarden.info
Feel free to re-distribute this article, as long as everything remains intact. ©Copyright 2005 -All Rights Reserved
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How To Attract Birds To Your Backyard Paradise For Less Than 100

Writen by Matthew Keegan

Like many Americans, you may find bird watching to be a fascinating hobby. At the same time, perhaps you wonder how you can attract regular visitors to your yard without busting the bank by purchasing expensive foliage, feeders, and food. Here are some tips toward helping you establish a backyard paradise that is certain to welcome birds without draining your wallet.

1. Purchase a Birdbath. Prices for birdbaths can run anywhere from 10 dollars for the plastic model to well into the hundreds of dollars for the sculpted concrete model with lights and a waterfall. Birds are attracted to water, the glitter of sunlight will catch their eyes and bring them flying in. So, the plastic one works as well as the expensive one. If you must have a better model, check out the yard sales in your neighborhood for a good used birdbath. Amount budgeted: $10.

2. Invest in a Squirrel Proof Birdfeeder. For approximately 25 to 30 dollars you can get a birdfeeder that is squirrel resistant. Squirrels put their little paws on the doors to the feeder and it closes shut without hurting the squirrels. Because birds are so lightweight, they will be able to freely access the feeder and dine sumptiously. The added cost of the more expensive feeder will be offset by the savings in food that will no longer be consumed and wasted by ravenous squirrels. Amount budgeted: $30.

3. Purchase Good Seed. Much of the seed out there is simply filler seed especially if it is dirt cheap. Spend a little more and purchase black oil sunflower seed as the variety of birds attracted to this type of seed is wide. Most of the home center stores offer bags as large as 50 lbs. Start with a five pound bag and you will only spend about $6 for the initial supply of seed. Amount budgeted: $6.

4. Hang Suet. Suet can be pricey, but if acquired in bulk it can cost you less than 70 cents per block. A suet holder should only cost you another 2 or 3 dollars. If you can, place the suet a fair distance away from the birdfeeder, but not far enough away where you won't notice the "traffic" flying from the birdfeeder to the suet and over to the birdbath. Amount budgeted: $12.

5. Provide Cover. Unless your yard is a barren landscape, you more than likely already have ample amounts of greenery present. You want to have a place for birds to rest, to check out your yard, and avoid cats. Consider moving shubbery around to provide a safe haven for your feathered friends. Amount budgeted: $0 -- use your own sweat to move shrubbery, if needed!

Total expenditure to get your birding program in place: $68. Keep the remaining funds to replenish your sunflower seeds and suet in the coming months. Check birding books out from the public library if you need reading material.

Once you have everything in place, you should be able to attract birds almost immediately. If you live in an area frequented by chickadees, house finches, cardinals, nuthatches, goldfinches, grosbeaks, bluejays,and titmice they will arrive and eat the sunflower seeds. Wrens, nuthatches and flickers will be common visitors to your suet.

In summation, you can transfer your yard into a backyard paradise filled with the wonders of God's feathered creations and you will be joining in with the majority of Americans who share a love of this common hobby.

For more information about birding please visit the National Audubon Society's web site.

Matthew Keegan is The Article Writer who writes on just about any and every issue imaginable. You can preview samples from his high performing site at http://www.thearticlewriter.com

Care Tips For Planting And Growing Orchids Inside Your House

Writen by Chris Milller

Orchids are typically an outdoor plant, thus it can be difficult to flower indoors. However, you can buy orchids that can thrive indoors or in a greenhouse. You do need to be familiar with the characteristics and conditions that orchids need to thrive in to result in a healthy indoor living condition. Here are some tips to care for the wholesale orchids you have purchased.

Contrary to typical plants, orchids do not grow in soil. In fact, planting an orchid in soil will kill the plant. In the wild, orchids grow on the bark of trees. Orchids should be grown in a similar way. Pots should be filled with loosely packed material such as bark or stones. Water is capable of draining quickly and also exposes the orchid roots to air. If wholesale orchids are left in standing water, they will eventually die.

Wholesale orchids also need to have the temperature variations of the plants that are grown in the wild. In nature, orchids go through a range of temperatures between night and day time hours. This can be achieved indoors by creating a drop in temperature at night by a minimum of ten degrees. This will encourage flower buds to set more readily. Wholesale orchids can survive without this change in temperature, but they will not necessarily thrive without it.

Depending on the color of the leaf on the orchid, this will demonstrate whether or night the orchid is getting the proper amount of light. If it is not getting enough light, the leaves will appear dark green. If the leaves have a grassy color, then the plant is getting the right amount of light for blooming. Too much light can result in a yellowish color on the orchid leaves.

Growing orchids can be a fun rewarding experience inside your home. Use the research above to help the orchid make the transition from the outside to the indoors without putting the life of the orchid at risk. Follow the proper care instructions for an indoor orchid and you will be able to provide a colorful look inside your home.

As an author at eZ-search, Chris Miller contributes to the growing content found within the site and shares his knowledge about orchid plant care.

Maintaining Your Landscaped Yard

Writen by Bill McRea

You have just finished landscaping your yard and you are pleased with the results. The flowers are blooming magnificently, the trees are giving enough shade and your kids are busy playing in the area you provided them for. It sounds peaceful and you are content with your own masterpiece. Like an art piece, though, without proper maintenance your landscaped yard will slowly fall apart.

In a perfect world, everything you've planned for your yard would be just that, perfect. It is not a perfect world, though, and there are several things to consider after you have finished the landscaping. Here are some simple maintenance tricks that might have escaped your mind.

The first thing that you should think about is the safety of your own kids. Weeds will grow and some of these weeds are harmful not only to your other plants but to your own children as well. You should check regularly for weeds and be prepared to immediately remove them from your garden.

Your kids are naturally curious and you make sure that thorns from your flowers (roses, etc.) are not problematic. You must also consider a tree's branches, as big frail branches could easily fall, or may so low that they are easily a hazard. Prune them. Be sure that rocks and pebbles are not in your child's way as they could stumble on them and hurt themselves.

After thinking about your kids, you must care for your plants. Plants need regular watering as they will wilt or die if not given taken care. Play areas that are too close to the play area can be destroyed by a stray ball or trampling.

Another thing to consider is making sure that the soil is suitable for growing plants. Fertilizers and/or constant tilling of the soil will make it more fertile and will enhance the growth of your plants.

Make sure that your yard is properly cleaned and that the grass is kept mowed. Trash can ruin the aesthetic value of your yard and can also be harmful to your health. Be sure to take out the trash at least every few days. You might also watch out for stagnant water areas as they are the favorite breeding places of mosquitoes.

Creating and landscaping your yard and garden does not end there, the work starts at this point and you must realize that every masterpiece needs proper care to maintain it's beauty.

Bill McRea is the publisher of Garden Facts also Garden Decor and Landscape Trees Landscaping and Gardening with information and products.

Organic Solutions For Pest Control

Writen by Anne Clarke

Many people shy away from organic gardening because they believe that their plants will become infested by insects if they do not spray them with the correct "poisons." The truth is, there are plenty of natural ways to keep bugs off of your plants – that is, there are lots of ways to keep the bad bugs off while attracting the good ones.

· Garlic. We all know that garlic keeps away vampires, but did you know that it also keeps annoying insects like aphids out of your garden? You can create your own insect spray by crushing the cloves. Also, plant a sprouting garlic in the garden to act as an additional repellent.

· Allium Family. Other "stinky" plants besides garlic, like onions, chives, and scallions also repel pests. Plant these throughout your garden.

· Fennel. Attract those beautiful ladybugs by planting this wonderful herb. Remember, ladybugs will kill spider mites and aphids, but they will not hurt plants, people, or pets. Compared to chemical pesticides, ladybugs are much less expensive, and they are self-renewing!

· Other herbs. Dill, cilantro, angelica, and parsley attract ladybugs to your gardens, too. They also attract other beneficial insects.

· Praying Mantis. A praying mantis can be the answer to your prayers… or they can become a bit of a pest, themselves. This insect is a very hungry one, all to happy to eat aphids, fruit flies, grasshoppers, moths, crickets, and house flies… but that is not all that they eat. They also tend to eat those beneficial insects like lacewings and hover flies. It is possible to buy cases of praying mantis eggs, if you want to include this hungry insect in your garden.

· Organic sprays. If adding insects to your garden is not your idea of the best way to get rid of insects, there are some organic sprays that you can use (like neem or pyrethrum). You can also set out sticky traps.

· Maintain proper soil fertility. Start with the soil – use proper waste handling methods as well as good compost methods. Plant a diverse ecosystem (of native species). By maintaining proper soil fertility, you will repel pests, weeds, and fungus.

The type of pest control that you decide to use depends greatly on the type of pest that you have – flies, grasshoppers, fungus gnats, leafminers, leafhoppers, crickets, caterpillars, aphids, bean beetles, etc. The list of insect pest seems to go and on. Luckily, there are some beneficial insects to combat them!

Overall, it is a good idea to invite green lacewings, ladybugs, and praying mantis to your garden. Find ways to attract them, or go out and buy them and bring them by force to your garden!

Besides using insects as pest control, there are plenty of traps and organic pesticides that you can use. Why not try these out first, before you try out pesticides that can be harmful to the environment?

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on gardening and pest control, please visit Gardening Answers.

Ancient Fig Trees Through History

Writen by Patrick Malcolm

The fig tree, 'Ficus carica,' possibly originated in Northern Asia according to archeological fossil records. Spanish missionaries brought it to the United States in 1520. Historical Sumerian tablets record the use and consumption of figs in 2500 BC.

In Greek mythology, the fig figures prominently as a gift of Demeter to Dionysus and as having received the blessing and sanctity of the Greek Gods. Plato documented that Greek athletes at Olympia were fed diets of figs to increase their running speed and overall strength. The figs contained up to 50% concentration of sugar which was virtually like feeding the athlete a candy bar.

The most famous Biblical reference to figs is that, in which Jesus cursed a fig tree for not producing any fruit for him as he passed by, a curse that killed the fig tree, Matt 21:18

The Jewish King, Hezekiah, was cured of a life-threatening plague by applying figs to the infected spot. 2 Kings 20 The Apostle, James, brother of Jesus, used the metaphor of the fig tree to describe the appropriate behavior that he expected to follow from Christian living. James 3:12 Fig leaves were used in the early church to hide the genitalia of nude, marble sculptures that adorned religious buildings. Fig trees were also used in ancient history as shade trees and to chop and use as quick start firewood.

Cooked figs were used as sweeteners in ancient times and this practice is still used in many third world countries in Asia Minor. The figs contain over 50% sugar. Hybrid figs contain many hollow, tiny seeds on the interior of the fruit, similar in taste as those found in blueberries and strawberries. A fig fruit has a round tiny opening at the base of the fig called an 'eye.' A tiny wasp flies into the interior of the fig and pollinates the tiny flowers lining the interior walls of the fig. These tiny seed are not generally digested by the stomach and offer a great laxative effect to the elderly sedentary citizens. American hybrid figs do not require or receive pollination to be transformed into edible fruit.

Fig trees in Europe can grow to a tremendous height of 100 feet, but the fruit is very difficult to harvest when the tree grows taller than 10 feet.

In harvesting the figs, it is important to pick the fruit from the tree, when it is completely mature--usually when it sags, droops, and changes color. If the figs are taken from the tree prematurely, the sweetness declines, but more importantly, if the figs are removed in the juvenile developing state, a white milky fluid exudes from the stem, which is transferred to a person's hands and then eyes or mouth, the fluid is very irritating and should be washed away as quickly as possible.

One of the most famous figs in the United States is the "Black Mission" fig tree, which was named after the California, Franciscan mission that dates back to 1770, when it was planted there and cultivated on a commercial scale.

Perhaps the most famous product of figs is the fig newton that uses dried figs placed between curved, sweet wafers and distributed by Nabisco. In Europe, figs are gathered from commercial fig tree orchards where they are sized, graded, and packed to sell as fresh fruit at local markets. Figs are easily dried after harvesting from the trees, and various brands are popularly sold throughout the world, because of their extended shelf life in the United States, California is the largest producer of figs and most of them are marketed as dried figs. In the South figs are boiled in sugar liquid, sometimes adding strawberries and the resulting fig preserves are eaten during the fall and winter months as fig preserves on hot buttered biscuits. The trees grow into picturesque specimens in many landscapes. The trunks are often whitewashed when young in order to keep the sun from scalding the tender bark. The roots are vigorous growers and will grow far away from the canopy; however, trimming these roots does not damage the tree.

Fig trees grown in full sun have soft wood that break easily. The trees easily grow to 100 feet in Europe but usually less than 30 feet in the United States. Fertilizing fig trees on most soils is unnecessary and unwise, because nitrogen fertilizer tends to promote aggressive branch growth and will reduce the size of the crop. If too much nitrogen is applied, the fruit does not mature properly and the fruit has an off taste.

The first crop of figs that matures in the spring is called the "breba" crop and the next and tastiest crop matures in the fall. Figs are harvested from the trees from June till October, although some new cultivars will be ready for eating in April. The shelf life for freshly picked figs is short and fig generally last only about three days in refrigeration. A fig should not be picked from a tree, if it is over ripe or mushy, since it will begin souring from fermentation. At this point figs will lose their roundness and begin to collapse inward. When a fig is harvested from a tree, it should be soft to the touch and a very firm fig will not ripen properly, if it is picked at this immature stage.

The beautiful leaves of the fig tree are used to make an odd scented perfume with the aroma of wood or musk. The white, milky latex from the tree can be used as a meat tenderizer or in making cheese, if the latex is dried and powdered. Figs can be frozen whole or sliced in plastic bags or jars and expected to last satisfactorily for one year. Dried figs can be soaked in warm water to restore their shape and softness. Fruit of figs is high in iron, calcium, potassium, and fiber, and they are used as a diuretic and a laxative.

Figs contain protein digesting enzymes and can be used as a meat tenderizer and a taste enhancer. Dried figs are often used to substitute for recipes calling for dried apricots, dates, or prunes.

Fig trees are considered to be about as cold hardy as citrus; however, recent hybrid cultivars show that fig trees can survive temperatures below zero degrees Fahrenheit for limited periods of time, and if the tree freezes to the ground, the new shoots will sprout in the spring to rapidly renew the fig tree.

Copyright 2006 Patrick Malcolm

Learn more about various plants, or purchase ones mentioned in this article by visiting the author's website: http://www.tytyga.com

How To Select The Best Hammock

Writen by Tanya Turner

Thinking of buying a hammock to relax and unwind? With so many hammocks on offer, it is difficult to decide which one is best. Discover the pros and cons of different types of hammocks and which hammock will be the best for you.

Hammock retailers offer hundreds of different hammocks, but all of them can be divided into three groups according to material: fabric, rope and string hammocks. Each material has its pros and cons.

Fabric hammocks can be quilted, or made of cotton or mesh. A well-made fabric hammock is durable and doesn't require much maintenance. Fabric hammocks are comfortable, and cotton fabric offers the most comfort. Unlike rope hammocks, there will be no prints on your body. Fabric hammocks are also very good for young children - their little fingers and toes won't get caught in the holes. On the downside, fabric doesn't provide much ventilation. So if you lie in a fabric hammock on a hot day, you might get a bit sticky. On the other hand, fabric is an ideal choice for cooler climates.

A rope hammock is the first thing most people think of, when picturing a hammock. Rope hammocks offer the most traditional look. They are usually made from cotton or polyester rope. They are very durable, don't require much maintenance and cost less than other types. A big advantage of a rope hammock is that it "breathes", letting you get the most benefit from breezes on a hot day. Rope hammocks are reasonably comfortable, but the rope might leave impressions on your skin. Hammocks with smaller spaces between the ropes are more comfortable.

The last type is string hammocks, which are also called Mayan hammocks. String hammocks are hand woven, and most of them come from Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua or El Salvador. They are reminiscent of tightly woven webs made of fine cotton, in a weave that might take more than a mile of string. String hammocks are the most decorative - they come in exotic, tropical colors, to create a relaxing holiday atmosphere.

Mayan hammocks are extremely comfortable and provide good ventilation, but don't leave any prints on your skin. They are also very light-weight, so string hammocks can be used for camping or taken to the beach. There is one disadvantage though - it is easy to damage a string hammock. Any sharp object can easily cut the string, so they are not as durable as rope or fabric hammocks.

One more thing you should know is that rope and fabric hammocks can have spreader bars at the ends or be stave-less (traditional hammock without bars). You might think that spreader bars add comfort, but in fact it is the other way around - hammocks without the bars are more comfortable, because they wrap around your body better. If for appearance reasons you prefer hammocks with spreader bars, go for hammocks with 3 hanging points instead of just 2 - these have much less chance of tipping over.

How much a good hammock would cost?

You might be surprised to find out that a good hammock might not cost much at all. Rope hammocks are usually the cheapest, but you can also find a very good Mayan or fabric hammock for under a hundred dollars. That is of course if you already have suitable trees. If not, you will also a need hammock stand. In this case, you would be better off buying a package (hammock and a stand together). You can get a good-looking, safe and comfortable package for 200-250 dollars, even though some decorative wooden stands cost as much as 500.

The best way to shop for hammocks is to look at online stores that sell discounted hammocks.

Visit AllHammocks.info for tips on getting hammocks and hammock chairs, price comparison and reviews of trusted hammocks retailers.

Indoor Gardening With Foliage Plants

Writen by Gwen Stewart

Plants grown primarily for their leaf characteristics and utilized for interior decoration or landscape purposes are called foliage plants. As our society becomes more urban, living plants as part of the interior landscape increases. The use of live foliage plants brings individuals closer to an outdoor type of environment, and the large variety of plants gives us the opportunity to select species that will serve as attractive additions to interior decor. Foliage plants are excellent for indoor culture since they are able to survive environmental conditions unfavourable to many other plants.

Most avid gardeners continue to grow plants year-round. We start seeds in the living room, grow ferns in the bathroom, bring in begonias from the outdoor garden year after year, and have pots of herbs in the kitchen. Today there are so many interesting plants that can be grown indoors that there's simply no reason for a gardener not to be surrounded by plants all year-round.

Everyone can grow foliage plants indoors with little effort if the right plant is used in the right location. Large-leaved species such as rubber plants (Ficus elastica), Monstera deliciosa, dumb-cane (Dieffenbachia amoena), and Philodendron are especially suited to commercial building interiors. They provide the size required to make them focal points in interior landscaping. These large leaved-plants as well as the smaller specimens such as ferns, vines, and ivies can serve a similar purpose in the home or apartment.

Practical Steps To Buying House Plants

Indoor plants are raised in glass greenhouses in which the air is warm and humid. When brought into the average home, they need to withstand more adverse conditions than the average outdoor plant. Challenging conditions such as minimum light, inadequate ventilation, warmer temperatures, drafts, and dry air contribute to stressful conditions for plants. Considering the following points will help in the selection of house plants that will complement your interior décor and live for many years to come.

1. Strong and vigorous. Give the plant a quick shake. A plant that's unsteady in its pot may not be well-rooted. Shaking the plant also tells you whether the plant has whiteflies that will scattered in every direction if the plant is infested.

2. Evergreen – Since it will be seen everyday of the year, plants need to be evergreen.

3. Attractive – Some of the foliage plants will flower from time to time, but the primary reason for purchasing is the plant's foliage and how the plants grow. The leaves may be selected for their colour or form, or both and the growth habit should be attractive and require minimum maintenance.

4. Slow-growing – Select plants that are slow-growing without a lot of pruning or training. They will perform better over a longer period of time.

5. Crowded roots – Check the bottom of the plant for roots coming out of the drainage hole. Roots emerging from holes in the pot don't necessarily mean that the plant is under-potted, but it's frequently a first symptom. Root bound plants will require transplanting when you get the plant home.

6. Unhealthy roots – If you can, have the clerk take the plant out of the pot to check for crowded roots. Roots come in all shapes, sizes, and colours. They should always feel firm and not squishy. Squishy roots are a sign of root rot.

7. Stem or root rot – Sniff the potting mix. Signs of rot smell like the sickly sweet smell of a rotting potato. Don't buy this plant, as it likely has a bad case of stem rot or root rot.

8. Leaf spots, yellowed leaves, or abundant leaf loss – Leaf spots can be a sign of disease or caused by the jostling of the plants in a garden centre. A yellow leaf or two at the base of the plant is nothing to worry about. If you see many yellow or fallen leaves, however, the plant's probably stressed and therefore not a good choice. Damaged leaves never recover. Ask yourself whether you are willing to wait for the plant to produce new leaves or would you rather purchase a healthier looking specimen.

9. Leggy plants or brown leaf tips – These conditions are signs of a plant that has not received adequate care over a period of time. Spindly plants indicate a lack of adequate light.

10. Signs of insects or disease – Look under the leaves and at the leaf axils (the place where the leaf attaches to the stem) where most often pests hang out. Do not purchase this plant, as not only will you have a problem with it, but you may also infest the other plants in your home.

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Chores. She owns the website Gwen's Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the book and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca

Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2006. All rights reserved.

Discount Patio Furniture An Easy Way To Get The Best

Writen by Nicholas Webb

Buying discount patio furniture is an economical way to obtain quality furniture for your patio.

Many department stores offer patio furniture at discounted prices towards or at the end of the summer season. Many people can obtain quality teak or cedar furniture to enhance their patios by watching the advertised sales from department and hardware stores. You can save yourself hundreds of dollars by just waiting a month or two for that special piece of patio furniture you have always wanted. You don't have to buy the cheapest furniture just to be able to enjoy your patio.

There are disadvantages to buying discount patio furniture. Ensure the quality of the workmanship of the pieces you buy so that you are not buying junk furniture that will fall apart the first time anyone sits on it.

When shopping for discounted patio furniture, you should always look for chairs or benches made from solid wood. This kind of patio furniture is durable and well worth the money you pay. Solid wood patio furniture never goes out of style and matches any décor. Having wooden patio furniture, discounted or not, makes a statement about your patio without you saying a word.

It is also possible to buy discount patio furniture at moving sales. Many people get transferred in their jobs and cannot afford to take all their patio furniture with them, or they may simply not have the room for it at their new location. This is a great opportunity to get quality for less. People who are moving generally ask a minimal price for the furniture they want to sell, just to get it out of their way. When you buy discount patio furniture in this way, you can be sure to save lots of money.

The internet is a fiercely competitive battle ground that often pushes retailers to offer their goods at interesting prices. You can often find discount patio furniture at prices that even the end-of-season sales at your local store can't beat. The thing to know here is to have a good idea of what you want before your start surfing. Just don't sacrifice quality when making your decision and you shouldn't have any problems. We have posted guides and tips on most kinds of furniture and accessories throughout our website. Take a look around, you will certainly find some useful tips in your quest for the best.

Whatever the method of getting discount patio furniture, it will be even more enjoyable because you know that it hasn't stretched your budget. You may have to do a little more ground work, but the effort will be worth it!

Nicholas webb is the owner of  http://www.allabout-patio-furniture.com A site that providing user-friendly patio furniture and patio accessories consumer tips and buying advice for the outdoor lover. Check it out before parting with your money.

 

Abatement And Coping With Challenges In The Environment

Writen by Lance Winslow

So often we find problems with our eco-system where something is out of wack and we attempt to alleviate the problem thru abatement. Generally such plans if well thought out make sense, however sometimes the laws of unintended consequences come forth and a worse problem is created you see?

This further challenges us in our Abatement Programs and plans and it is not easy coping with such complex problems and challenges in the Environment. If you use Mosquito abatement and the bats eat the poisoned mosquitoes then the bats can get sick and die and then they do not eat all the other bugs so then you have to use more pesticides which can be bad for the produce and the run off from the fields, orchards, vineyards and such gets into the streams, rivers and lakes.

This causes issues with fish too. It is all part of the same and one over kill or screw can have unintended consequences. Luckily we are learning from all this but not fast enough?

All abatement plans need to be well thought out. If we fail to kill the vector disease carrying mosquitoes we may find ourselves with dead livestock and humans with West Nile Virus, Bird Flu or other very serious issues. So, we must do what we have to do and do it well. But we also think several chess moves ahead. Consider this in 2006.

Lance Winslow

Flower Delivery In New York

Writen by Eddie Tobey

As is the case with any large city, you can become overwhelmed with the options for sending flowers. If you need to send a gift, New York flower delivery services are plenty. If you are not familiar with any particular business, it may be wise to ask friends or family (or even the florist) for referrals or recommendations.

If your quest for referrals in finding the perfect florist for you needs is null, you can always do an Internet search. You can also utilize the services of national floral deliveries (FTD) or 1800Flowers.com. These and other national companies will deliver to New York; different companies may or may not charge additional processing or delivery fees.

Blossom Flower Shop is a time-tested florist. With over 80 years of experience in the floral industry, they guarantee you will be satisfied with your purchase. This is a family owned company with 4 generations of floral experts at your service. Blossom Flower Shop delivers to all of New York City. They have professional floral designers who give personal attention to every order.

Another popular florist is New York Plaza Florist. This company specializes in orchids. They also offer a variety of thousands of roses and other flowers. With professional designers on staff you are certain to get a personal touch with every order you place. This company enjoys New York flower deliveries and gives a special touch for your special occasion.

Flower Delivery Info provides information on same day, next day, international, and online flower delivery in various regions Flower Delivery Info is the sister site of Flower Bulbs Web.

Lattice Patio Covers

Writen by Alison Cole

Patio Covers complement your home's architectural style and at same time provide outdoor space for entertainment or a quiet game of pool. The scene gets interrupted with temperature and weather changes, and you are left with no option but to move to the main house. A Lattice Patio Cover is an easy-to-use, economical and versatile system to protect your patio from the vagaries of nature. The discrepancy is in that, unlike solid Patio Covers, Lattice Patio Covers block 50 to 60 percent of the sun.

On most counts it is weather conditions and the exterior of the house that decide in favor of Lattice Patio Covers. Cover material has to be water resistant and rust proof, and should not crack, peel or split. Wooden Lattice Patio Covers have a natural appeal, but require regular painting and checks for termites etc. In keeping with preferred sensibilities, Patio Cover manufacturers have found an answer with aluminum that resembles wood in form. The new wood-grained aluminum gives the look of real painted wood that is UV resistant, heat and fire resistant, termite proof and does not crack, peel or rot for first three years. Another advantage is that aluminum Lattice Covers have built-in gutters presenting a clean attractive roofline. One can select from factory-baked enamel finish of natural cedar, or from a variety of colors available.

The Lattice Patio Cover with open framework of crisscrossed wood or metal strips in regular or patterned spaces is a new design available in regional, standard or custom models. These covers can be remodeled to fit in with any patio, whether attached to the house or a free-standing one in the yard. For a greener look, one can cover the Lattice with vines or other flowery creepers or, for a modernistic design, use half solid and half Lattice.

Patio Covers provides detailed information about patio covers, how to build a patio cover, lattice patio covers, patio chair covers and more. Patio Covers is the sister site of Stone Garden Bench.

About Bonsai Origins

Writen by Patrick Desnoyers

Miniature trees are originally rooted in the mountains of China, where only a specific species of plants and trees grow. Because of its hostile weather conditions, the trees were often stunted and contorted. The strong mountain winds also left these trees twisted in ice and the cold. Essentially, it is nature that has rendered the inspiration for the art of potting trees as students of the art do their best to mimic what nature has created. By "training" trees through specialized means of pruning and shaping them to a desired height and structure, these students of the art were able to recreate the sample nature has provided.

Bonsai, a Japanese term for "miniature potted trees", actually originated from the Chinese. Called "pensai" in China, these miniature trees first appeared in artworks and poems in this Asian country in 200 B.C. Early own, the mini-tree, or rather, the work of art, has already become a symbol of harmony and tranquility. Chinese Monks and the nobles or upper class, who appreciated the beauty and significance of plants and trees or nature in general, cultivated mini-landscapes of mountains, rivers and little tree houses placed on big plates. Sometime in the 15th or 16th century, this artistic hobby grew among the people of Southeast China. Many of them have become master designers and experts of the art of tree potting. What was known first known as a hobby of Chinese artists, monks and nobles in those days became a significant part of modern day Japanese tradition.

How this came to Japan was made possible through the officials of the Japanese government, who often come to China at the height of the Tang Dynasty and have brought the art back home. During the Kamakura period, while Zen Buddhism was introduced in Japan, these Zen masters also introduced the hobby of tree potting to its people. As a result, it became widely popular among the wealthy class (daimyos or feudal lords), the merchants and even the Samurais. In addition to this, daimyos even sought pottery masters on their employ, to make one of kind pots for their miniature plants.

Initially popular among the Japanese priests, the ruling class and those on the upper hierarchy, Bonsai eventually reached popularity with the middle class. As Japanese culture and their way of living dictates it, where the Japanese have always believed in keeping a harmonious relationship with their surroundings as beneficial, miniature gardening became one of Japan's favorite pastimes. The fact that these potted trees took up just a small space inside the house was also compatible with how the Japanese lived. It was during these times too, that the word "bonsai" was coined.

Today, the art of Bonsai is still practiced in China. It is characteristically different from the Japanese versions as they are somewhat bigger than the popular Japanese Bonsai. And while thinking of potted trees, one easily attributes this to Japan, the hobby/art form appeals not only to the people of the East today, but students and enthusiasts all over the world have also become devotees to the art of tree potting.

Patrick From Mishobonsai seeds

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

In The Garden Planning Before Planting Is Key

Writen by Lee Dobbins

How many times have you gone to the garden store and bought some plants that you absolutely loved only to get home and not be able to find a suitable place in the garden?

Getting the right look in you garden takes a lot of planning. You simply can't go to the garden store and randomly choose plants as there are many things to consider such as light conditions, soil conditions and surrounding plants. A well planned garden will have plants that thrive and compliment each other but a randomly chosen garden will look haphazard and may even be bad for the health of your plants.

Before you purchase your plants evaluate your garden for how much sun and shade it gets and in what areas. Consider whether the soil is well drained or has standing water and whether it is sheltered or windy. Then when you go to the garden store, buy only plants that will thrive in your garden; shade-loving plants for the shady areas, sun-lovers for those sunny spots, swamp plants for areas with poor drainage and drought-resistant plants for those areas that don't stay wet enough.

Another thing that many gardeners fail to consider is the PH of the soil. Is your soil acidic or alkaline? Most plants prefer soil that is a bit on the acidic side, but there are some that need alkaline soil to grow. You ca change the PH level of your soil, but it's just easier to buy plants that like the PH of the soil you already have.

Another thing to consider is how and where to plant your plants. Do you want a lot of greenery or a splashy show of colors? Narrow down your choices of plants to just a few and buy many of each kind. If you plant 'one of everything' your garden may seem rather spotty. Planting in groups is much more aesthetically pleasing as well as harmonious.

One thing you might try is to draw out your garden on a piece of paper. This doesn't have to be a masterpiece painting just a simple sketch. Get some colored pencils or even crayons and add the colors of the flowers you want to plant. Are the colors pleasing together? If so you have a plan, if not it's back to the drawing board.

Before planting, you can put the plants around the garden bed in their pots to see how they will look. This will allow you to move them around and rearrange until you get the look just right. Grouping of plants in odd numbers look best so try putting groups of 3 or 5 of the same plant together. Combine colors and textures to add interest and always put the taller plants in the back and shorter ones in the front. If your garden can be viewed from all sides as opposed to being up against a fence or house then put the taller plants in the center.

One final consideration is the blooming season. Many plants only bloom for a short period of time so if you want continual color all season you will have to grow plants that flower during the different periods of the season. Plant flowers with different bloom times next to each other and you will always have a flower blooming in that spot in the garden. Also, don't forget the foliage. Many flower plants have silver, grey or purplish foliage that is just as attractive as the flower. This means that they are still attractive well past the blooming season!

Lee Dobbins writes for Backyard Garden And Patio where you can get more great gardening and landscaping tips.

Watersaving Ways

Writen by Michelle Hancock

We turn on the tap and there it is: water. This liquid of life nourishes our environment, our crops, and our bodies. But there are fears for the future of our water supply. Planners warn that good quality water could become the world's most sought-after resource.

The average Canadian household releases about 691 kg of water pollutants annually, according to recent research by the David Suzuki Foundation. As contamination threats continue, our water quantity is diminishing. A 2003 report by Statistics Canada into the nation's freshwater resources notes how since 1850–and especially in the last 50 years–about 1,300 of our glaciers have lost 25 to 75 percent of their mass. Along the Rocky Mountain eastern slope, glacier coverage is decreasing rapidly and is now the lowest it has been in 10,000 years.

Canadians are the second largest water consumers in the world. Recent statistics show each Canadian uses 1,471 cubic metres of water annually, while each American uses 1,870 cubic metres.

Watering yards and gardens accounts for 14 percent of our annual household water use. In the summer months, this jumps significantly, making outdoor water conservation essential to preserving and protecting our precious resource.

Common sense measures, such as taking showers instead of baths and only doing full laundry loads, can also make a big difference. When it comes to water, let's make our philosophy: Waste not, want not.

For great water-preserving tips, check out the following resources:

• davidsuzuki.org, The Green Guide by the David Suzuki Foundation
• savingwater.org, The Saving Water Partnership

Water-Friendly Lawn Care

Turning your lawn into that perfect blanket of green can come at a cost. Summer water consumption increases by 50 percent, putting stress on local lakes, rivers, and reservoirs at a time of year when water flows are naturally low.

The good news is a few basic steps can go a long way toward maintaining water-conscious greenery. Greg Seaman, founder of eartheasy.com and long-time ecological thinker, has these tips:

Choose a Locally Adapted Grass

Grasses vary in their preferred climates, amount of water and nutrients required, shade tolerance, and the degree of wear they can withstand. Ask your local garden centre to recommend a grass best adapted to your area.

Mow Often, but Not Too Short

Giving your lawn a "Marine cut" isn't doing it a favour. Surface roots become exposed, the soil dries out faster, and surface aeration is reduced. Don't cut off more than one-third of the grass at any one time. Most turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2½ and 3½ inches in height.

Water Deeply, but Not Too Often

Thorough watering encourages your lawn to develop deep root systems that make the lawn hardier and more drought resistant. Let the lawn dry out before rewatering; the colour should dull, and footprints should stay compressed for more than a few seconds.

The best time for watering is early morning because less water will be lost to evaporation.

Vancouver writer Michelle Hancock loves writing about health and the environment and is a regular contributor to alive magazine. Visit http://www.alive.com for related articles.

Mustard The Greatest Among The Herbs

Writen by Gwen Stewart

Mustard plants have been used for thousands of years for their pungent flavour in condiments, spicy greens for side dishes and salads, and in traditional folk medicine and Chinese herbal medicine to treat a variety of ailments. The name mustard comes from the Latin mustum ardens, or "burning must." It was so named because as the seeds were pounded with unfermented grape juice, or must, their pungent qualities developed, hence "burning." Mustards seeds are mentioned in ancient Sanskrit writings dating back about 5,000 years ago and the Bible calls mustard "the greatest among the herbs." Valued for their intense flavours and healing properties, mustard seed and the plant itself have been grown for its beautiful yellow flowers and spicy seedling leaves. Members of the Brassicaceae family, mustard is a cruciferous vegetable related to cabbage, Brussel sprouts, kale, kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, rutabagas, turnips, radishes, horseradish, cress, and broccoli with the attendant phytochemicals properties.

Mustard is categorised as a food, medicine, spice, and condiment. White mustard (Sinapis alba) also known as yellow mustard is a native of North Africa, central Asia, and the Mediterranean. This is the mustard that is used extensively in the production of American prepared mustards, as it is the least pungent. Brown mustard (Brassica juncea) is native to Asia and is the seed used to prepare specialty mustards such as Dijon. Canada is the world's largest exporter of mustard seed and among the top five producers in the world. Saskatchewan produces over 80% of the domestic total and the brown mustard seed used for Dijon mustard comes from Saskatchewan.

Mustard seeds contain many healing properties and have been used for centuries by Chinese herbalists to treat abscesses, bronchitis, colds, rheumatism, toothache, ulcers, and stomach disorders. They are an excellent source of monounsaturated fats, phosphorous, and a good source of iron, calcium, zinc, magnesium, and manganese. Mustard seeds have been shown to help reduce the severity of asthma, decrease some of the symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis, and help prevent cancer. Mustard plasters are still being used today to treat rheumatism, arthritis, chest congestion, aching back, and sore muscles. To make a mustard plaster, mix equal parts powered mustard and wheat flour, dilute the mixture with sufficient cold water to achieve a soft paste. Spread on a clean cloth such as cotton flannel, linen, or several layers of muslin. Remember that mustard is a hot herb and contact with the skin may cause blistering and should be avoided. Leave on for approximately 15 minutes. If the patient complains at any time during treatment, remove the plaster immediately. After the plaster is removed, bathe the treated area with cool (not cold) water to stop the burn. Dry the area and finish up with a dusting of baby powder or cornstarch to soothe the skin.

Mustard greens are the leaves of the mustard plant Brassica juncea. Mustard greens originated in the Himalayan region of India and have been grown and consumed for more than 5,000 years. All young mustard leaves can be used for mustard greens, however Chinese mustards or mustard greens (Brassica juncea var. rugosa), broad-leaved mustard greens, or (Brassica juncea var. foliosa), thin-leaved mustard greens, are the best mustards for greens. These varieties are also known as gai choy, Indian mustard, leaf mustard, mustard cabbage, Bamboo mustard cabbage, and Sow cabbage. Mustard greens are a staple vegetable in many cultures around the world. They are used much as spinach, dandelion, or beet greens are used (see recipe for Sautéed Mustard Greens).

Mustard greens are an excellent source of vitamin E, vitamin C, and beta-carotene. They also contain vitamin B6, folic acid, magnesium, calcium, iron, niacin, vitamin A, and are an excellent source of phytochemicals thought to prevent cancer. In Chinese herbal medicine, mustard greens are used to treat bladder inflammations and to stop hemorrhage. Eating mustard greens is thought to offer great benefit to individuals suffering from conditions ranging from asthma to heart disease to menopausal symptoms.

Mustards are annuals and grow from 2-4 feet (60-120 cm) tall. The flowers produced are yellow and the white mustard flowers have a slight vanilla scent. They are known as cruciferous plants because they have four-petaled flowers, two long and two short that resemble a cross. Both mustards have pungent-flavoured, broad, dark green, jagged with irregularly cut lower leaves. Mustard is a cool season crop and bolts quickly in warm weather.

Mustards can be started indoors or planted directly into the soil in early spring. If you are starting mustards indoors, adequate light is essential. Hang lights 3 inches (7.5 cm) above the seedlings and leave lights on for 16 hours a day. They prefer a rich, moist, well-prepared soil with adequate drainage. Plant seeds at a depth of ¼ inch (6 mm) and follow directions on the seed packet. They grow best in full sun and need to be kept moist during the growing season. Space mustards 6 inches (15 cm) apart. Harvest your mustard plants for greens when the leaves are young and tender, for cooked greens when the leaves are mature, and for seed when the seedpods take on a brownish tinge.

In the kitchen, whole mustard seeds are used in sauerkraut, cabbage, pickles, relishes, curries, sauces, pot roasts, and to flavour meats such as lamb, pork, and rabbit. Use fresh flowers as an edible garnish or cook flowers for 2-3 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain and serve with butter and sea salt to taste. Mustard seeds can be sprouted and used in salads, sandwiches, or as a garnish. Young mustard greens are great additions to salads and stir-fry dishes. To make your own mustard condiment, grind, crack, or crush the mustard seeds. Macerate the seeds in wine, vinegar, or water. Make sure the liquid is cold as this causes the chemical reaction that releases the heat and pungency of the seed. Grind them into a smooth paste, adding herbs and spices such as tarragon, horseradish, crushed hot peppers, turmeric, garlic, pepper, paprika, ginger, or hot pepper sauce. Additional options are honey, dark ale, beer, whiskey, wine, wine vinegar, Scotch, or brown sugar. Fruit mustards are made with lemon, lime, orange, or berries. (If you don't want to bother with grinding your own seed, start with mustard powder or use your favourite prepared mustard and add whatever additions you like.) Prepared mustard is used in vinaigrettes, marinades for meats, poultry, and seafood, mayonnaise, salad dressings, sauces, soups, and stews (see recipe for Basic Mustard.) Prepared mustards get their intense yellow colour from the addition of turmeric.

Basic Mustard

½ cup (125 mL) ground mustard seeds

¼ cup (50 mL) ice cold water

¼ cup (50 mL) vinegar (white, wine, cider)

2 Tbsp. (30 mL) sugar (to taste)

Grind, crush, or crack mustard seeds. Add the water to the ground mustard and stir. Let sit for 30 minutes in the refrigerator, then add remaining ingredients and blend. If you wish, add herbs or substitute wine for some of the vinegar. Pour into sterilised jars to seal. Refrigerate mustard.

Sautéed Mustard Greens

½ tsp. (2 mL) olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 small onion, chopped

1 lg. bunch mustard greens

Wash mustard greens well, dry, and remove coarse stems. Chop stems into small pieces and leaves into 3 inch (7.5 cm) pieces. In a large skillet, heat olive oil on medium, add onions and garlic and stir-fry until onions are wilted. Add stem pieces, small amount of water, and place lid on skillet. Cook for a few minutes until stems are slightly tender. Add leaves and sauté until all liquid has evaporated and greens are tender. Season with sea salt or soya sauce and serve immediately.

This recipe can be used for other greens such as spinach, Swiss chard, dandelions, and beets.

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul. She owns the website Gwen's Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the book and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2005. All rights reserved.

How To Build Artificial Rock The Methods The Professionals Use

Writen by Steve Goodale

Mixing concrete - the most important step in artificial rock making

Mixing concrete is no different than baking a cake. If you do not put the right ingredients into the mix it will not turn out properly. In fact, mixing and curing a batch of concrete is virtually identical to mixing and baking a cake. Except that the concrete bakes at room temperature!

There are many different concrete mixes and various additives and substitutions for ingredients. It is true that lightweight concrete can be created by adding vermiculite, perlite, peat moss or saw dust in place or partially in place of sand. The short answer is - yes you can do this with varying degrees of success and with more than a little trail and error. The concrete mix that is detailed below is specifically designed for two reasons:

1) Maximum strength

2) Maximum sculptability

This mix is engineered to produce a final concrete strength of 50-75 mPa. This is STRONG in fact this is VERY STRONG concrete. This will produce concrete that is far stronger than sidewalks and curbs, even stronger than swimming pool concrete and most concrete found in high rise construction.

It is important to note that you can make concrete batches of all sizes using the simple principal that the ingredients are all proportional to one another. For example the ratio of sand to cement is generally 3:1 or three parts sand to every one part cement. All other measurements in the mix will be based on the 'one part' cement that you are using. For this example the measurements are based on a standard 40kg bag of type ten portland cement being equal to one standard five gallon bucket.

respirator is a MUST as silica, concrete dust and fiberglass are dangerous to breathe!

Dry Ingredients:

-One bag type 10 portland cement

-Three buckets fine, clean washed sand

-One and 1/4 buckets un-densified silica fume

-1/4 bucket Fly Ash -Small handful of glass fibers (like a pinch of salt - not precise, but a small amount)

Wet ingredients:

-800ml of poly-plex or liquid latex (Liquid acrylic can be substituted where liquid latex is not available)

-300ml liquid water reducer

-Water**

NOTE: The liquid additives can be omitted and replaced with water with acceptable results. The water reducer and liquid latex are needed only where maximum strength and workability is essential.

**In order to make the concrete strong and workable the amount of water is critical and can change depending on a number of given criteria. For example, if the sand you are using is slightly damp you would likely need HALF the amount of water than if your sand was bone dry. If it is hot outside you may find yourself needing more water than on a cool day. Adding the correct amount of water takes practice.

Mixing the concrete ingredients is the most important stage

You can mix concrete in a mixer, a bucket or on a piece of plywood with a square head shovel. This depends on the amount of concrete you need to mix. With all methods A thoroughly mixed, well proportioned cement mix is the secret to easily workable concrete. If you are a beginner you should probably mix the concrete much longer than you would otherwise think- and it can be hard work. The best concrete mix in an entire day of pouring concrete is the one that spins in the mixer throughout a long lunch break!

Mix all dry ingredients thoroughly before getting ready to add water. You will add water in SMALL quantities mixing thoroughly between adding more. You will find that the small amounts of water that you add will get immediately absorbed by the overly dry mix and you will feel compelled to add a big splash of water. DO NOT DO THIS!

The concrete will readily absorb water to a certain point of saturation, after which seemingly a thimbleful more will reduce your fine sculpting concrete to a watery mess. Concrete that has been over watered is completely compromised in terms of strength. You may be able to add ingredients or wait a while to get some sort of useable substance but this seriously weakens the end result in an undetectable fashion to the naked eye.

Have patience with adding water and you can quickly find yourself becoming more familiar with the total amount needed on any given day. If you take the time to measure how much water you need in a mix, the next time you make it you can immediately use half the anticipated amount of water required, and add the second half very slowly to ensure that you do not over water.

Making perfect concrete mixes takes patience and practice

What you are going for with this mix is a relatively firm (not too watery) end result. The concrete should be able to be formed into a ball, but still squished between your fingers without breaking off into clumps. Instead it should almost ooze through your fingers. If you dropped a fist sized ball of concrete onto the ground from the height of your knees you should end up with an almost flat circle of concrete, but not totally flat. Pictures of the desired consistency are included in the sculpting section.

Try taking your point trowel and smoothing out the concrete like spreading icing on a cake. You should be able to get a smooth glossy-like finish by working it back and forth gently. If the concrete just spreads out to nothingness under the gentle weight of your trowel you have too much water. If the concrete tends to break apart instead of spreading smoothly you likely need just a touch more water. A little goes a LONG way at this point.

Once the concrete is mixed - pay attention to the ticking clock

You will have a few hours in most cases to work the concrete into its desired shape before it cures too much to be worked further. Direct sunlight and hot dry weather can considerably increase the curing rate of concrete so it is always better to err on the side of caution with concrete drying times as you certainly do not want a batch of concrete drying in the mixer before you can get to it. This goes for tools as well. Always keep your tools clean or you will quickly find all of your tools rendered useless by dried concrete.

You can work the concrete for a few hours, misting with water if it looks like it is drying too fast (cracking in direct sunlight). After the initial curing begins and the concrete begins to stiffen you should stop working the concrete as further disturbing will weaken the strength of the final product.

Be prepared in case you can not finish your project in a single session

If you find that you are not able to complete the project in one shot, be sure to leave your concrete work finished in an inconspicuous spot. You will always be able to see the joint between where new concrete was added to cured concrete and in most cases this will cause a weak link in the overall structure called a cold joint.

If you need to add new concrete to old concrete you must complete an additional step to ensure that the two sides bond together. You need to make a watery mix of cement, water and concrete adhesive called slurry.

Making slurry for bonding old concrete to new concrete

Prepare your new (regular) mix of concrete, cover and leave in a cool shaded place. Now you are going to make another very small mix, just enough to cover the joint where new concrete and old concrete will overlap.

Mix only water and cement powder until you have something resembling soft butter. Then add a generous dollop of glue to the mix and mix further. This soft butter looking mixture (slurry) must be applied along the entire joint where you wish to add new concrete while the slurry is still wet.

Right before you apply the slurry mix you must spray down the existing concrete piece with water so that it is thoroughly wet.

NOTE- This slurry mix dries FAST. On a hot day the slurry can cure in a matter of minutes so do not waste any time in applying the slurry to the cold joint and getting your fresh waiting concrete mix spread over top.

There are some products as well that can be purchased that will perform the job of this slurry mix. Generally these mixes are designed to set fast for joining surfaces and fixing active leaks. There are concrete mix additives that can cure in 30 seconds or even underwater to patch a leak. Many times dealing with these products you will find yourself distracted for a moment only to find your trowel firmly embedded in the solidified bucket of mixed concrete moments later. The home made slurry mix described above is much more forgiving than these commercial products and produces reliable results just the same.

Concrete curing times

Concrete takes almost a full month to reach maximum strength. All too often with beginners the anticipation gets the better of you and you end up destroying or damaging your creation by moving or working the concrete too soon after sculpting. I recommend waiting a minimum of 3 full days to begin working the concrete and a full 14 days before attempting to lift or move. Be sure to keep the concrete moist with water at least 2-3 times per day for the initial 3 days.

Now that you have a better understanding of how to make concrete that is great for sculpting artificial rocks, we can take a look at how you are going to sculpt it to look exactly like real stone.

The artificial rock E-book is available in full for free at www.ArtificialRock.ca

Steven Goodale, author of the E-book "How to build artificial rocks - the methods the professionals use" has over 15 years experience building cutting edge technology swimming pools, spas and artificial rock waterfalls for an elite clientelle across Canada. Ebook is available in full for free at http://www.ArtificialRock.ca and you can email Steven at Info@ArtificialRock.ca

Conversion Tables Us

Writen by William Dittman

These are the conversion tables that are needed in a landscaper's routine day. Some are hard to recall when needed. Hope they will help you in your landscaping duties. Use for calculation so you don't over order your landscape supplies. There is nothing worst than to order a big load of material dump it on your driveway and find out you order the wrong amount. I have not experienced that for some time. You learn to double check your figures. You might need to go my other article on TABLE OF CONVERSION FACTORS will help you to convert from to what you need and multiply by. Example is to (convert cubic feet) to (gallons) X multiply by 7.48 Rule of thumb in landscaping (measure twice order once)

Linear Measure
• 1 foot – 12 inches
• 1 yard – 3 feet
• 1 mile – 1760 yards – 5280 feet

Square Measure
• 1 square foot – 144 square inches
• 1 square yard – 9 square feet
• 1 acre – 43560 square feet – 4840 square yards
• 1 square mile – 640 acres

Cubic Measure
• 1 cubic foot – 1728 cubic inches 29.922 liquid quarts = 7.48 gallons
• 1 cubic yard – 27 cubit feet

Liquid Capacity Measure
• 1 tablespoon – 3 teaspoons
• 1 fluid ounce – 2 tablespoons
• 1 cup – 8 fluid ounces
• 1 pint – 2 cups – 16 fluid ounces
• 1 quart – 2 pints – 32 fluid ounces
• 1 gallon – 4 quarts – 8 pints – 128 fluid ounces

Weight Measure
• 1 pound (lb.) – 16 ounces
• 1 ton – 2000 pounds

William Dittman owner of Custom Landscape and Irrigation. Contact bill @ http://www.customlandscapeandirrigation.com Bill is the see it before you buy landscaper.

Great Kitchen Herb Gardens

Writen by Joey V. Davidson

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are." Alfred Austin's quote on garden comes close to describing the passion many gardeners feel about their flowering weeds. For the indoor gardener, this is especially true since most gardeners who bring their gardening indoors do so for a specific purpose. This purpose usually goes beyond a way to express one's spirit. Kitchen herb gardens can also purify the air and be harvested for seasoning cooking delights, ornamental creations, and ingredients in cleansers.

When setting out, the new herb garden enthusiast will likely choose the failsafe herbs, just like the pioneers did. There was a mix of herbs used by the pioneers - some were those brought carefully across the Atlantic from their country of origin, and others were those that had been long used by Native Americans. These were seasoning herbs and those that helped keep meat edible for the longest time. Both settlers and natives had medicinal herbs in their apothecary, and many happily shared their knowledge. Some of these cures have not stood up to scientific scrutiny, but still we tend to associate herbs with medicine.

The best place to start a kitchen herb garden is along a south or west window. If winter sunlight is poor in your kitchen, invest in a "grow lamp" or fluorescent lighting for better lighting. As your indoor garden expands, you may want to invest in special shelving that fits into your indoor window frame. Indoor Window Gardening (http://www.indoorwindowgardening.com) offers plant hangers and adjustable Plexiglas shelves that lengthen by cable, which are connected to a bracket that is mounted to your window molding. Below are tips for preparing your planter:

- Use a planter with plenty of drainage holes since herbs don't like soggy roots. Set the planter on a drainage tray.

- Line the bottom of the pot with one inch of gravel. Mix potting soil two parts to one part sand. Sweeten each "5-inch" pot's worth of soil mixture with 1 tsp. of ground limestone.

- Put herbs that require the same amount of watering in prepared planter.

Pick herbs according to how you intend to use your garden. For instance, will these herbs be for cooking or for show? Many herbs will crossover from one purpose to another purpose. For example, marjoram, mint, basil, chive, and sage work as seasoning, have incredible flowers, and are especially aromatic. To get ideas on which herbs to grow in your kitchen, check the seasoning aisle at your grocery store. Some other great herbs that can be harvested and used fresh or dried for later use include saffron, chive, tarragon, thyme, anise, and dill.

Phyllis McGinley said "The trouble with gardening is that it does not remain an avocation. It becomes an obsession." This has a ring of truth as once you get to grips with growing and reaping the benefits of your indoor herb garden you won't be able to stop.

Copyright 2005 Joey V. Davidson. All rights reserved.

Joey V. Davidson is the owner of Eye Gardening improvement - a top resource for garden improvement topics. Go to http://www.eyegardening.com