Trees

Writen by Elizabeth Morgan

The word tree denotes plants, a family mapped through various generations, as well as scientific notations like binary trees. So anything that has a root, strong trunk or stem, and branches out can be termed as a tree. In fact, a few centuries ago people placed in the entrance way a "tree" for visitors to hang hats and coats on.

In nature trees are big plants that grow tall, flower, and fruit. Trees are all around us—furniture, paper, food, houses, and toys. We use things made from trees, enjoy shaded avenues, revel in the forests, and cut trees out of avarice—urbanization. Trees are what sustain life and play an important role in the ecosystem. They enrich the soil, prevent erosion, and are home to birds, insects, small animals, and fungi.

Trees are valuable to mankind. They provide fruits and are sources of energy or fuel, medicines, detergents, as well as cosmetics. In fact, fossil fuels are produced by the death of trees.

That trees have always been a part of our lives is seen from holy books and scriptures which praise the existence of trees—the Bible and Koran both mention the date palms and describe its beauty, utility, and uses. In fact, just recently a date seed that is 2,000 years old, found in the excavations of Masada, has germinated. Even in Eastern cultures, the tree played an important role and was worshipped. Art documents that very often the Buddha as the Master was represented by a tree (bodhi) enclosed within a railing—such depictions are found in Buddhist sites that date as far back as the 2nd century BCE.

Trees have a definite role to play in the ecosystem. Ecosystems are maintained in balance by trees. When the land is verdant with trees that are flourishing and healthy, other aspects of our environment like soil, water, and air, also remain healthy. Trees improve air quality by replenishing oxygen and removing carbon dioxide. They replace nutrients in the soil that support growth—minerals as well as nitrogen, and conserve water.

Trees also bring down the temperature in summer months and ensure adequate rainfall. During winter months they protect humans by breaking the force of cold winds. Trees prevent landslides and can protect the land from the disastrous effects of hurricanes and tidal waves. They protect humans from respiratory problems by acting as air filters, as the trees trap dust particles and absorb gaseous pollutants. They reduce greenhouse gases through photosynthesis. Trees shade life from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays from the sun, which are becoming more intense with the thinning of the ozone layer. Urban noise is muffled by tree cover, as tree leaves diffuse sound waves.

Studies have shown that adequate tree cover in urban areas can help save energy costs by fifty percent in summer and twenty per cent in winter. Trees are our friends, and need to be protected from annihilation and destruction.

Trees provides detailed information on Trees, Palm Trees, Christmas Trees, Tree Houses and more. Trees is affiliated with Silk Palm Trees.

Barbecue Pit Smoker

Writen by Josh Walker

If you have done some barbecuing, then you know how great it can be. But have you heard of a rotisserie? This is a cooking accessory that allows meat to rotate over heat until it's cooked. Combine a rotisserie with your barbecue pit, and you'll be the envy of all your friends. You may have seen a rotisseries barbecue pit smoker in action, and sampled the delicious meat that's cooked on one. It doesn't matter how you found out about it, rotisserie barbecue pit smokers are one of the most popular barbecue accessories on the market.

Rotisserie barbecue pit smokers are quite unique in both appearance and function. You can buy them in a range of shapes and sizes. The way they differ from other pit smokers is that the front doors of the rotisserie are recessed. This means that instead of the smoke rolling up into the face of the person serving the food, it moves around just inside the cooking chamber.

Most rotisserie barbecue pit smokers are available as a full-length firebox plus a cooking chamber. The idea is to provide consistent heat so that the food is thoroughly cooked. The smoke can also flow freely around the entire chamber. The pit smoker includes intake vents to help keep the embers in the firebox from bursting into flame and burning the meat. You can also control the temperature and air baffles, to make sure you control the level of heat and flame inside the pit smoker.

Rotisseries barbecue pit smokers have an electric motor to keep the rotisserie turning. The electric motor is strong enough to handle large loads of meat, and so it's important to make sure you choose a pit smoker with a durable motor. You can also buy barbecue pit smokers that contain shelves, which make it easy to rotate the food inside the pit smoker very easily. It makes it easy to access food that you're grilling. Check to make sure the pit smoker has a thermometer, which makes it simple to monitor and control the cooking chamber temperature.

It's no surprise that rotisserie barbecue pit smokers are becoming more popular, as more people discover how easy they are to use. Sometimes it costs a little more for the rotisserie feature, but it's worth it when you sample the delicious results of this type of pit smoker. So delight your family and friends and invest in a rotisserie barbecue pit smoker today.

If you want to read more about barbecue pits, click over to Josh's site at http://www.infoaboutfirepits.com

Proper Handling And Use Of Pesticides

Writen by Terry Blackburn

This Article deals with the problems involved in Using and Handling Pesticides.

Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it's important to use them properly.

The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don't be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear.

All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn, especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.

Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. Eradication is often impossible and unnecessary. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn't necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.

Store pesticides out of children's reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed. When Spraying, protect your skin, your eyes and your lungs. Wear gloves, long sleeves, long pants, eye protection and a respirator. Wash this clothing separately before using it again. Read the entire label and follow its instructions as well as any local and state regulations. Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.

If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA's tollfree National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen's Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division,H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

Choosing The Perfect Flowers For Summer

Writen by Jennifer Houck

Summer flowers and bedding plants are a great way to instantly add color to your lawn. Summer flowers start appearing in garden centers in the early spring, but you should be careful to plant only after the danger of freezing weather has passed. Summer flowers produce the best results when purchased ready to plant rather than trying to grow them yourself from seeds. Selecting the right summer flowers for your area can be quite a task, especially if you are planting your first flower garden. Here are some suggestions as to which flowering plants may be right for your situation:

If your flowerbed is in direct sunlight for the majority of the day, you will want to choose a hardy, heat-resistant plant. Some of the better choices for full sun are marigolds, zinnias, petunias, and zinnia. Be careful to choose a variety of heat-resistant plants, as some of these full-sun varieties are prone to diseases, especially marigolds. You will want several types of flowers in your flowerbed not only for contrast and interest, but in the event that one variety does poorly or becomes diseased, you can simply pull the plants (roots and all) and cultivate your remaining varieties. Keep in mind that if any of your plants are diseased, you should pull them immediately to avoid spreading the disease to your other plants.

For areas that are in partial to full shade, consider impatiens, begonias, and vinca. All of these come in a variety of colors and grow quite well in shady areas. In choosing the colors for your flowering plants, remember that red colors make the plant seem closer and larger, while blue will give the illusion of smallness and distance. Planting a single color of flowers will draw more attention to your flowerbed, but if you want several colors make sure the flowers compliment one another. Purple goes well with pink and white will blend in nicely with any other color. Also, red goes very well with violet as odd as this may seem.

The most important thing you can do to ensure beautiful summer flowers is to prepare your flowerbed appropriately before planting. Till the soil thoroughly and remove any weeds, roots and all. Fertilize your flowerbed before planting and for the first month after planting flowers, water every other day so that the roots of the plants will be properly nourished. Use mulch as a covering in your flowerbed to preserve moisture and do not over-feed your flowers. Use fertilizer exactly as directed on the package and avoid getting the fertilizer directly on the parts of the plant that are above the ground.

Jennifer Houck is the owner of http://www.bestflowergrowers.com, the Best Flower resource for learning how to grow your flowers. Learn what foods to feed, when to plant flowers and how to design a flower garden.

Wholesale Flowers In New York

Writen by Kent Pinkerton

New York wholesale flowers are easily available in the New York wholesale market. There are large selections of plants and flowers which come in daily to these wholesale markets. The Chelsea wholesale market is one of the major wholesale flower markets available in New York City.

The best thing you can get in the market is the impressive selections of potted plants, blooming and green. The pots can be made of ceramic, Mexican pottery or terra-cotta. The market is available for you all through the week. Its hours are 8am-7pm Monday through Saturday, and on Sunday it is open from 10am-6pm. The Chelsea wholesale market is located on Ninth Avenue at 15th Street.

Other major New York wholesale flowers are available at many different places, like the Seagroatt Floral Co., Inc. in Albany; Mid Island Floral Ltd. in Bayshore; Joel Harvey Distribution, Inc. in Brooklyn; and C.J. Baker Wholesale Florist Inc. in Buffalo.

Agrotropical and Floral International is also one of the main wholesale florists in New York City which give you high quality flowers with a low price. They offer delivery of cut flowers with airline or shipping of your choice. Ordering earlier would not reduce delay in your delivery, since the flowers are to be picked fresh only after your order. This is to ensure the highest quality and freshness.

The Chelsea market is a place where you are offered a wide selection of flowers. The service is good and reasonably priced. The cut flowers inside the cooler are well known for quality and low price. Moreover, their arrangements change from time to time; you can always expect something new.

Wholesale and bulk flowers which are offered by these florists are wholesale roses, fresh cut carnations, and other flowers; foliage; and floral supplies. They come from all over the world. Millions of rare flowers are the best thing you can see in the New York wholesale flower markets.

New York Flowers provides detailed information on New York Flower Delivery, New York Flower District, New York Flower Market, New York Flower Shops and more. New York Flowers is affiliated with Thanksgiving Flower Gifts.

5 Simple Steps To Dividing Your Hardy Water Lilies

Writen by Brett Fogle

If you missed the springtime window of opportunity to divide your hardy water lilies, don't worry, it's not too late. Although springtime is the best time, you've actually got the entire normal growing season to get it done.

The reason for dividing your water lilies is that they eventually run out of room in their existing pots and need more room for the roots to spread out so the plant can flourish. Not only is this relatively easy to do, but you end up with more plants as a bonus!

Step 1

Remove the plant from the pot and gently rinse the dirt from the root system.

Step 2

Cut the older growth from one end of the tuber, and the newer growth from the other. If there are new "eyes" along the tuber you can snip them off and pot them if you wish.

Step 3

Take a sharp knife and cut the tuber back on the 'growing' part. On small plants you can safely cut the tuber down to 2-3 inches. Keep it at around 5-6 inches for larger plants.

You should also cut off new buds and any older leaves so the plant can stay focused on growing a new root system.

Step 4

Plant the tuber in good quality garden soil that has been poured into a pot that is suitable for water gardening. Potting soil is not the best choice so make sure that the package says 'garden soil'.

Insert the tuber into the soil placing it next to the wall of the pot rather than in the center of the pot.

Insert a couple of aquatic plant food tabs about halfway into the soil and then pack the soil around the tuber so it will stay in place when the pot is submerged.

Finally, pour a layer of pea gravel over the soil to keep it from washing away. This also discourages your fish from digging in the pot. Make sure that you do not cover the crown of the tuber with gravel.

Step 5

Slowly submerge the pot into your garden pond. Don't be alarmed if some dirt residue mixes in with the water. This is normal and it will soon settle to the bottom and the water will clear.

Keep your new plants in water that is no deeper that 12" until you notice at least five or six new leaves. Once the plant is established you can place it in deeper water if you wish.

There, you're done. Now your old plants will have more room to grow and you'll have new plants to keep or share with friends. Wasn't that easy?

**************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
other pond-related websites including MacArthurWatergardens.com
and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
**************************************************

This Autumn Postpone The Winter Blues For Your Lawn

Writen by Jeff Hansen

In the summertime, one sees many St. Louis homeowners toiling on their lawns to make sure they are perfect. Autumn lawn chores are just as important – they prevent winter damage to your lawn, and help ensure a beautiful turf once winter thaws.

Don't Put Your Lawnmower Away Yet

Continue mowing your lawn regularly throughout the fall, setting your mower's blades at 3-1/2". Never remove more than 1/3 of grass' standing growth because this inhibits photosynthesis, which is vital to the health of your lawn. Proper mowing techniques aid in the development of healthy root systems and help lawns resist weeds, disease, insects and thatch. At the end of autumn, stop mowing your lawn once the grass starts going dormant, which is easy to tell.

You can also keep your grass green and strong this fall by leaving grass clippings on your lawn to produce organic mulch. The shorter the clippings are, the quicker they decompose and nourish your grass.

Water, Water Everywhere

Autumns in St. Louis might not feature the scorching heat of our summers, but your lawn still needs plenty of water to stay healthy. This fall, water your lawn two or three times a week, preferably in the early morning to prevent diseases from forming, for 30 to 45 minutes per zone. This will result in approximately one inch of water per week, and ensure that the water is absorbed below the root area, as shallow watering promotes weed growth and prohibits deep roots from forming.

Autumn Aeration Gets the Air Moving

To keep your lawn healthy throughout this winter, aeration is important to any fall lawn care plan. Annual aeration allows air, nutrients and water to circulate within the soil to feed grass roots, and it also allows our hard clay soil to absorb nutrients.

The day before aerating your lawn, drench your grass with water for 30 to 45 minutes per area. The next day, walk back and forth across your lawn using a manual or mechanical aerator. After aerating, fertilize once with a slow-release turf grass formula and continue your regular watering schedule, but avoid mowing your lawn for a minimum of three weeks. If homeowners are unsure of how to aerate, they can consider hiring a professional lawn care company.

Fall is the Perfect Time for Seeding

Fall in St. Louis brings cooling temperatures, but the remnants of summer warmth are often with us throughout the season. One of these welcome guests is warm soil. Combined with the comfortable temperature, this makes fall the best time to seed your lawn. Seed germinates faster and warm soil, but doesn't get burned by the excessive heat of summer. New seedlings establish themselves quickly in these ideal conditions, and are allowed a chance to prepare for winter.

Two general seeding techniques are appropriate for the St. Louis area, depending on the current condition of your lawn. Slice seeding is a method used for stressed lawns that need renovation, but eliminates the need to strip and till the existing turf. Slice seeders are available for rent at many local rental centers. The equipment slices the sod and precisely plants new seed into the earth, allowing the lawn to regenerate from within.

Another, more common and simple seeding technique is called overseeding, which typically is best performed after aeration. Overseeding makes use of a rotary or drop spreader, which are small and relatively inexpensive to purchase at home improvement centers and hardware stores. Hand held models are available for small areas, while larger, push units are ideal for larger lawns. Overseeding is appropriate for lawns in good general health, which simply need some sprucing up for strength and fullness.

Your choice of seed is just as important as the method of seeding you employ. A fescue blend is ideal for St. Louis, with new, stronger varieties being introduced each year. Many fescue blends are disease and drought resistant, and bounce back well from the stress of summer. Avoid fine bladed fescues because they are not resilient to humidity, traffic or disease.

Regardless of which seeding method is right for you, mow your lawn to a height of 1-1/2 to 2 inches and bag all clippings prior to seeding. After seeding, lightly water the lawn three or four times daily to keep the seed moist. Apply 1 lb / 1000 square feet of quick release nitrogen fertilizer five weeks after germination, and repeat in another six weeks. When the grass reaches 3 inches tall, set your mower's blades at 2 inches for the rest of the fall. When spring arrives, your lawn will be fresh and luxurious rather than worn out from a cold winter.

More Mulch for the Lawn & Trees, Please

Many homeowners think of mulching as a spring task, but fall mulching is in many ways more important. Applying a fresh blanket of mulch around trees and landscaping will insulate the soil and root systems from the winter cold. Once spring arrives, simply freshen up the mulch by turning it over with a rake, or add a thin layer of new mulch.

Recent studies have shown that the best type of mulch for your trees and shrubs is a premium blend, organic mulch. Organic mulch produces more microbial nitrogen, allowing trees and plants higher nutrient uptake, than non-composted mulch, which is typically made from tree bark, and actually takes nutrients away from your plants.

Before applying mulch to trees and shrubs, remove all weeds and grass from the areas to be covered. Rake two to four inches of mulch into a flattened doughnut shape over these areas, keeping the mulch at least six inches away from trunks. Form a "moat" around the base of the tree or plant to help catch water, and leave a small gap between the mulch and the edge of the surrounding lawn.

Aside from its functional uses, mulch can add color and beauty to your lawn this autumn. Mulch is available in numerous colors, ranging from golden tan to rich mahogany to nearly black, and even organically dyed varieties, which are less likely to bleed or bleach, and will not harm your lawn.

St. Louis is experiencing unseasonably warm weather right now, so take advantage of the situation and begin your autumn gardening tasks. Not only will your lawn look nice throughout fall, but you will have less work to do in the springtime.

Jeff Hansen is president of Hansen's Tree Service, a full-service tree and lawn care company that performs diagnosis, treatment, pruning, tree removal, stump removal and lawn care. Hansen's is fully accredited by TCIA and ISA, and serves residences and companies throughout the entire St. Louis metro area. With nine fully certified arborists on staff, Hansen's educates the public on the values of proper tree and lawn care, its maintenance and the importance of environmental responsibility. For more information visit http://www.hansenstree.com

Tips To Use Less Water In Your Thriving Organic Food Garden

Writen by Julie Williams

Water is arguably our most precious resource. All living things need water to survive. But we don't just want our productive organic food gardens to survive, we want them to thrive! And a growing plant uses a lot more water than one that is just surviving. Every part of the plant growing process uses water.

When plants start to become dehydrated they stop photosynthesising, close their stomata, stop taking in nutrients and stop growing. It can take a few days for some plants to recover even if there has been no tissue damage. So it is vitally important not to let your plants become dehydrated (just like yourself).

Not enough water can kill or stunt your plants. Sometimes mild water stress can be a good thing, as it encourages plants to send their roots down deeper into the soil, making them more drought tolerant. The aim is to use as little water as possible without causing stress.

Ways to use less water

1. Create soils that are made up of humus and organic matter. These soils can hold lots of water and plants can easily draw it up. It has great water-holding capacity as well as having a high nutrient content.

2. Mulch the soil surface. This reduces evaporation, keeping the underlying soil moist for longer. Any mulch is better than no mulch, even if it's underfelt (the older kinds are safer) or newspaper. This also prevents soil erosion.

3. Use drip irrigation – preferably under the mulch or soil surface. There are purpose made recycled hoses available now that are perfect for the job. You can save up to 90% by using drip irrigation rather than a sprinkler.

4. Only water when it is needed and as much as is needed. If you're not sure, try the finger test. Yes – poke your finger into the soil to see if it is moist or dry. Make sure the water penetrates as deep as the roots, but it's a waste to water any deeper than that.

5. If you live where summers are really hot, plant crops under partial shade. It could be shade from a pergola or tall plants such as sweet corn.

These are simple methods to reduce your water consumption. You could also consider collecting your own water. If we all had rain-water tanks attached to our houses it would not only give us clean, free water, but would reduce the amount of water that ends up in our storm water drains. It is also much better for food gardens as mains water is often high in salts, chlorine and fluoride.

Re-use of "grey" water is also another way to reduce how much water we consume. It can be used on lawns and other plants in the garden that are not for food production.

Hi, I am an avid organic gardener and am known by my friends as the recycling queen. I live on a small country property in South Australia. It is my mission to encourage as many people as possible to start organic gardening. This will improve both our individual lives and the wellbeing of our personal and global environments. Please visit my website and get your free 3 part Composting Guide. For Companion Planting info click here. Happy gardening, healthy living… Julie Williams http://www.1stoporganicgardening.com

Spring Flower Gardening

Writen by Linda Jenkinson

Spring is the time when nature and your garden awakes and comes alive after the long winter. That first spring flower or that first green leave is the sign that winter in coming to an end and that a new growing season has arrived.

Spring and Flower gardening is almost synonymous. Spring is the time to interplant perennials, shrubs, roses and plant or transplant your annuals.

It's time to shape up your soil, loosen the mulch around your plants and prune your early blooming shrubs. Rake and remove leaves and debris from your garden. Without a good planting medium your flower garden will never be at its best.

Perennials will save you a lot of work in your flower garden. So keep perennials high on your list. These hardworking beauties eliminate yearly replanting and will still give you that spring and summer color that you are longing for. It's best to choose varieties that don't need a lot of staking or frequent division. Notorious sun lovers are daylilies, sedium, and speedwell. Plants like hosta, fern, sweet woodruff and columbine feel more at easy in the shadow.

Flower Bulbs add a splash of color to your spring garden. "Sprinkle" some crocuses, daffodils, and of course tulips between your flower beds. Flower bulbs are almost essential in a spring flower garden. If you haven't planted them last spring make sure you do so coming fall.

An important part of spring gardening is getting on top of the weeds. Most weeds are fairly easy to control when you start taking them out from early spring on. At that time they still have a shallow root system and because they haven't bloomed yet they haven't reproduced either. Taking care of them in spring will pay off big in summer.

Spring, its really the growing season, and for a gardener its perhaps the most beautiful and promising time of the year.

Linda is the leading author of http://www.gardening-guides.com/ and http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/.

Enjoy Working Your Garden With The Right Gardening Tool

Writen by David Chandler

Nearly every gardener has some type of gardening tools. In fact, it is nearly impossible to have a garden without the necessary garden tools. What kind of gardening equipment you use will obviously depend on the size and extent of your garden, what you are able to handle, if you want to spend a lot of time in your garden or get it done quickly, and finally, how much money you are willing to spend.

While many gardeners do not have expensive or high-tech gardening tools, all of them have some type of gardening equipment for cultivating. Tools for cultivating can include both hand held tools and power tools. What kind you buy depends on how serious of a gardener you are. Hand tools include your everyday items like shovels, spading forks, rakes, trowels, and diggers. These can all be used to get a garden ready for planting and are relatively easy and do not require much strength to use. Other tools include a wheel cultivator, pickax, and mattock.

While power tools are a little more expensive than hand tools, they really cut down on the hard labor. The most essential piece of gardening equipment is undoubtedly the tiller. The tiller will break up the ground and get it ready for planting, chop up any debris, and help mix in fertilizer and compost. If you do not want to spend the money on a tiller, you can hire someone or rent a tiller. Other power tools that are very popular include chippers and garden shredders.

If you have shrubs, hedges, or small trees in your yard, pruning tools are a vital piece of gardening equipment. Pruning shears are good for branches about ¾" in diameter, while lopping shears can handle branches from a half inch up to about 2 inches. Pole pruners are on a pole and can reach branches about 15 feet above ground. Hedge shears and pruning saws are both larger, more heavy-duty pruning tools for the serious gardener.

Since your plants must be watered in order to survive, and lets face it, it doesn't rain whenever we want it to, gardening equipment for watering is a must have. The one thing you cannot get along without is a water hose, everything after that is optional. Many gardeners use sprinklers or drip irrigation hose. There are even timers you can purchase for sprinklers or drip hoses, if you are willing to drop the extra cash.

Gardening without gardening tools would be a nightmare. Sure there are some people who enjoy getting a little dirty while they plant their flowers, but even those types of people have the most basic of gardening tools, like a rake or a hoe. Gardening equipment is a part of gardening, as important as the dirt and the seeds.

About The Author
David Chandler For more information about garden tools, visit http://www.gardentoolinfocenter.com For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: "What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!" go to: http://www.stockmarketgenie.com

Water Garden Pond Pumps To Pump Up The Volume

Writen by Maisy Day

The sounds of the water from your garden feature and the effect it can have on you is an experience not to be missed. Pump up the volume with the sound of splashing water. For instance listen to the sound of running bath water and to the constant dripping of a tap - which can be annoying to say the least. However, if we change the word dripping to trickling and replace the word running with flowing then that is another kettle of fish (excuse the pun if you have a pond.

If a water garden feature is to prove its worth to the eye and ears then choose your garden ornamentation with these two factors in mind - pretty to look at and nice to listen to

Fountains and waterfalls are most favourable among gardeners. Before engaging in the structure of water garden features as such then you need to remember - these type of features actually oxygenate and freshen the water with the constant ongoing movements. If you have fish in the pool of your fountain/waterfall then they will love the lively waters - but water plants like lilies and lotus may suffer because of this. Plants as such prefer stillness and may well be hampered in flourishing in action packed waters.

Careful thought and planning behind your water garden feature will make your venture a whole lot easier. If you want a bit of both worlds (fish and plants) then you can. Your water garden feature can still be home to aquatic life but instead of floating water plants on top of the water why not landscape surrounding areas with pretty shrubs - this can be very affective as well as cost effective because what ever plants you you use will not have to be of a specific plant type .

Another suggestion is to erect a mini replica of your feature to the side of the larger garden fixture with no pump action and have floating plants there. Water movements are very important to give off an effect which is relaxing to listen too and attractive to look at. Circulating swirls are fabulous water moves.

Water garden features and accessory tips can be found from the best friend you could ever have at your side when taking on the task to build or erect a water fountain - and that is a manual. It is a wise decision to have yourself a DIY book with you at all times when undertaking jobs as such. Water garden suppliers will have all the information you need. Garden centres offer complete do it yourself kits.

Gardening books will tell you all you kneed to know like that there are two basic pump types - the submersible pump and surface pump. The surface pump is usually enclosed in a container alongside the pool where a polythene tube is used feed the fountain or water fall. To undertake this installation is far less complicated than you could imagine.

If you choose the alternative method - then the water garden submersible pump is a lot simpler. Plumbing is reduced to a minimum. Submersible pumps are not visible to the eye. This type of pump can not be seen due to its location submerged under water so therefore no sound.

In other words out of sight out of mind - I don`t think so - not with the injection of beauty it creates.

To create the perfect water feature that will attract attention from neighbours and aquatic life is to make it unique. Fabulous ideas and tips http://watergardens.webinputbiz.com. Information on garden birds http://www.birdbook.webinputbiz.com.

Make Your Fresh Cut Roses Last Longer

Writen by Willie Jones

Women adore getting flowers, most especially roses, as it is a symbol of love and affection. Price of roses vary from state to state and flower shop to flower shop. Regardless, it is an investment that you want to have last as long as possible. So here are some steps you can take to ensure they last

1) If you have roses and greens wrapped and you want to arrange them in a vase, the first step is to get a bowl of warm water, and with a sharp knife slice the ends slantwise under water. You do it this way for two reasons. 1) Cutting slantwise ensures that the opening is big enough to draw water, as they drink a lot, and 2) cutting under water ensures that the cut end doesn't get an air pocket blocking them from drinking.

2) For best results put them in a vase of warm water and a package of flower food and if possible refrigerate for 2 hours. You'll want them to drink well. Note, if you don't have flower food, you can use a spoon of sugar and a few drops of bleach. The bleach will kill bacteria in the water.

3) Before you place your roses in a vase, Take each rose stem and take off the leaves that may be below the water line, but don't take them all off because the greens contribute to the overall look of the arrangement.

4) Now the next step goes against what most florists will tell you. If at all possible, if the thorns are not too big, I suggest you do not take them off. The reason for this is that it causes the rose stem to be wounded. This leaves them open to bacteria and they'll wilt quicker. If you have to take some of them off then take your thumb, put it on the side of the thorn and pop it off. This is the least invasive way to get them off.

5) Change the water daily.

6) If an arrangement has arrived to you already made, then you need to change the water daily, feed them and do a fresh cut on the bottom. Check to see if any leaves are below the water line and remove.

Follow these simple steps and you'll enjoy your roses much longer.

On another note; if you are allergic to flowers (or even if your not) it is nice to give yourself a floral motivational poster. You'll still have a visual of flowers.

I hope this helps. Enjoy!

Willie Jones

Willie is a freelance writer, researcher, floral designer, and artist. Thanks very much for reading this far. Please come and visit us at: http://www.artinspires.com/for an inspirational poster or two

"Make sure you enroll in the free motivational poster drawing. All winners receive a free framed print."

Building Your Garden Decks

Writen by John Gibb

Decking on your Garden is an essential part of the Garden that adds utility and beauty to Your Garden and as whole to your Home. In order to build a Wooden Deck certain points should be considered. Building a Wood Deck correctly can create the perfect transition between your Home and your backyard.

Your Wooden Deck should be a place for you to relax and unwind after a hectic day. Building a Deck correctly requires proper planning and design, whether you are going to have your Deck built by a professional or do it yourself.

Given below are the basic considerations for building a Wooden Deck. First choose a Deck type. You can have several types of Decks in your Home. An outdoor patio Deck can be attached to your Home. A convenient location for your outdoor patio Deck could be attached to the Family room or Kitchen.

A destination Deck would be typically located in a special place with a view and would not connect to your Home. You might have a winding path that would lead to the destination Deck. A connector Deck is several smaller Decks of any shape or size connected to each other with pathways.

The next step is choosing your Deck activities. Decide the activities of your Deck. Go online and buy a good book on planning and building a wood Deck. Think well before you build your Deck. Then decide your Deck size. You don't need a large Deck if your House and backyard is small. Larger Deck will make the house smaller in appearance. Try to keep the Deck simple.

You can also add one or two angles to the Deck design. You can divide into two areas while building a wooden Deck, one area for lounging and sunning and another section for cooking and dining. Then decide what type of material you are going to use for building wooden Deck. Your Deck may need Concrete footings that extend below the frost line if you'll have freezing winters.

If your Deck will be on sandy soil, you may need to build larger footings that will support the Deck posts or beams. The posts can be 4"x4" lumber which is generally strong enough to support the Deck. If your Deck is above ground, you may be required to use 6"x6" structural posts.

The Deck beams will rest horizontally on the posts and will support the Deck joints. Deck joints will be spaced horizontally every 12", 16" or 24" and will support the Decking Boards. The Decking Boards are the floor of your Deck.. Contact your local building official to see what is required in your area.

One major advantage to having qualified professionals help is that they understand the legal side of how to build a Deck and can help ensure building code requirements are met.

John Gibb is the owner of desking resources , For more information on decking check out http://www.Decking-guides.info

How To Build A Fence

Writen by Alison Cole

The three most important things you need in your home and garden are privacy, safety and shelter. In order to achieve these three objectives, you would need to build a fence around your garden.

How could you build your own fence? Before you build a fence, you need to find out whether there is any legal regulation in your area for fence building. There are different types of fences available in the market, from chain fences to privacy fences that come in different prices and styles. You could check out local fence stores or stores supplying home-improvement items.

After you have selected your fence, you need to dig holes with clamshell diggers at the right places in your garden to put up the posts. Putting some gravel under the areas where you would be setting the posts would be a great idea, to prevent the posts from decaying. Then, trim the posts to level them after putting them up.

You could also put barbed wire around the house. Barbed wire, or line fences, do not require much support as posts or wooden fences. You need to varnish, paint and maintain the wooden fences every year, and prevent the rusting of the barbed wires. In this respect, privacy fences and invisible fences are low maintenance, as you do not have to constantly maintain or paint them.

The other inexpensive fencing options are the waffle and the cleft chestnut, which look more like some kind of a basket and give a rustic look to your house. However, these fencing types are very strong and remain so for a longer period of time.

Alternatively you could purchase a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) kit from a local hobby store. These are inexpensive and come with special instructions and a warranty.

Fences provides detailed information on Fences, Vinyl Fences, Invisible Fences, Privacy Fences and more. Fences is affiliated with Deck Builders.

Healthy Soil For A Healthy Garden

Writen by David Chandler

All too often, soil composition is neglected. Every season, our plants and gardens rob the soil of it nutrients. All gardeners are to be custodians of the soil, taking the time to replace food and other elements as they are used. Since our soil is so important, we need to treat it, as we want to be treated, not like dirt.

Soil is a composition of weather-beaten rock, minerals, decayed plant materials and other organic ingredients. All this takes a long time to develop, but can be damaged by our action or neglect in a single season.

For soil to be healthy, it should contain a balanced mix of air, water, nutrients, and organic matter. There are a couple things we can do to protect this mixture.

Adding organic matter on a regular basis is probably one of the most important things we can do. Adding compost and animal manure can do many things, for instance:

Increases the soil's capability to hold nutrients.

Makes food available to plants over a longer period of time.

Lessens the amount of nutrients lost by erosion or leaching.

Provides micronutrients that are needed by plants in small amounts.

Releases nutrients already in the soil by increasing the action of beneficial microorganisms.

Increases the water-holding capacity for sandy soils.

Increases the drainage of clay soils.

Saves money.

Do not apply fertilizer to lawns until we get a good soaking rain, and for best, safest, long-lasting results use organic fertilizers. The wet soil puts the nutrients into a solution and helps distribute the nutrients to the plant roots to be absorbed.

The ability of soil to drain water is important. However, when you read phrases like "plant in a well-drained soil" or "does not like wet feet", they are talking about the plant's need for air. The roots of plants require oxygen and any soil that is waterlogged will be lacking oxygen.

Many plants will put up with high moisture-conditions during the growing season, but when the plants are dormant, the same conditions may kill them. By improving the drainage, the plant will have a better growing environment.

Another problem is soil becoming compacted by tractors and other equipment or just by tilling it year after year. You will find soil compaction in most soils, from gardens to farm fields.

Tilling the soil when it is too wet will clump and ruin the composition of the soil. This condition takes a long period of time to bring it back to health. To tell if the soil is too wet take a handful and squeeze it, if it crumbles in your hand then it is ready to till but if it clumps then it is too wet. Some people now believe that tilling at all is not good for the structure of the soil. It exposes the helpful microorganisms to the environment and they are destroyed.

However, gardeners may wonder if it is best to till the garden in the fall or spring. Tilling the soil in the fall has advantages over springtime. When spring arrives, it allows for earlier planting since the basic soil preparation is done. Tilling in the fall allows a large amount of organic matter to be turned into the soil and start decomposing because the microbes are active currently.

An excellent source of organic matter is the fall leaves. Try tilling a thick layer of leaves into the soil this fall and by spring, it will have decomposed.

Sowing a cover crop, like winter rye, is very beneficial by adding valuable nutrients and organic matter when tilled into the soil the following spring. Fall tilling will disrupt the bad insects, diseases, and weeds, reducing their population.

Fall is a good time to test your soil and should be done every couple of years. In conclusion, doing all the previous steps should be done the organic gardening way. It is back to basics when it comes to gardening.

For more information, visit The Garden Info Center and The Garden Center Info Guide

David Chandler

For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: "What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won't Tell You!" go to: The Stock Market Genie

Hot Rose Gardening Ideas Tips And Tricks To Growing A Better Rose Garden

Writen by Tim Gorman

A lot of people love roses, and that's hardly surprising. When your rose bushes are thriving and covered in blooms, they look absolutely stunning. But if you're just starting out with a rose garden, it's not always easy to know how to arrange your garden to make it as attractive as possible. There are many difference factors that you need to take into consideration when planning your rose garden, including more than just what color the flowers will be.

Start by taking a look around at the various resources available to you. This can include rose gardening books, magazines, and websites on the Internet. Browsing can give you lots of good ideas, but here are a few to get your started.

First, how much space do you have available in your garden for roses? Once you know the space available, you will be able to work out how many rose bushes you need to plant. This is also dictated by the type of rose you choose, and some can be placed quite close together, whereas others, such as climbers, may need to be as much as twelve feet apart. If your rose garden area is small, it may be wise to choose miniature roses for the best effect. These are very attractive when they are planted closely together in a garden bed.

Next, think about colors. Do you have a favorite rose color? You might want to design your rose garden around that color there. Perhaps you want to create a pattern with different colored roses, or just find roses that will complement the color of your house. Many people find growing red and white roses alternately in a rose garden makes a pretty, patterned effect. If your house is a shade of peach, however, you might like to choose a mixture of peach and yellow roses instead.

Also, think about what plants you want to put around the base of your rose bushes. For part of the year roses are not particularly attractive and can even be a little bare, so it's good to have some other plants to fill in the gaps in the rose garden. Choose plants with flowers that blend well with your roses. They don't necessarily have to be the same color, just complementary. For example, a low growing purple flower would go well underneath a row of peach roses. Red blends well with pink or white filler plants.

Now that you've worked out exactly what effect you want in your rose garden, it's time to begin the preparation process.

For more helpful rose gardening tips to growing a beautiful rose garden be sure to visit Rose-Gardening-Made-Easy.info where you will find an abundance of information to include autumn, spring and summer rose gardening tips.

The Magic Of Gardening

Writen by Daniel Roshard

Gardening is great, and we learn to appreciate not only outstanding gardens when we visit one but also the gardener, who is putting a lot of time and energy into his garden. We are so accustomed to the fact that some people enjoy working in their gardens that we often forget that this is not something that is forced upon them, gardening is an acquired hobby, it takes time and a lot of learning to get to being a gardener and it is not a thing that can be achieved in a short time.

Let us leave aside for a moment the classic gardener that we know and think of, that middle aged, sometimes even older, man or woman that spends a lot of his or her time in the garden manicuring every leaf on every flower and examining the roots of every tree, these are the people who have made their decision about gardening a long time ago.

What makes a gardener, what are the deciding moments for a gardener and how does it start. Most will say that it starts simply by having a garden or a backyard, since most gardeners own a garden they can take care of and it is usually located in their own property, although there are some amateur gardeners that take care of a garden that is not located on their property – most gardeners do own their garden.

The passion for gardening is universal, you will find dedicated gardeners on every spot in the world, and in almost every possible climate, there is someone that is waiting for spring to arrive so he could start planning his garden. The other thing about gardens are that they need careful planning, and it is no wonder that when you meet an experienced gardener and ask what is the firs thing you need to do, the answer will most probably be to plan your garden and make sure you understand what you want to have in it before you start making it so, this way you will guarantee that you can deal with all the potential difficulties that await a beginner.

The amateur gardener will most probably need the basic working tools, a pair or tow of working gloves and a few good books about the flowers and plants that are the ones that are popular in that area, the reason for this modest beginning is very simple, if you start building your own garden you will want to start and enjoy it as soon as you can, and since it is almost certain that you have a lot of work ahead of you, it is only sensible to try and shorten the waiting period as much as possible.

Depending on the size of the garden that you intend to develop it is important that you start working on a relatively small part, making it your testing ground, whatever you will find that works on that part you can then apply to all the other parts of the garden and you will also have the knowledge of how much effort and time it will take. Developing your own garden will than start, and it will probably last you for the rest of your life.

Daniel Roshard is an interior designer fascinated by outdoor architecture, currently studying public parks and outdoor design. Daniel writes articles about home improvement and gardening issues. You can read his latest work about Gardening.

Riding Lawn Mowers

Writen by Max Bellamy

Riding lawn mowers are ideally suited for lawns that are large. The gadget makes lawn mowing less laborious. Generally a lawn exceeding 1,440 square yards is regarded as one where the use of riding mower is essential. These mowers can be maneuvered more flexibly around tight edges, but are quite costly.

A majority of these machines scythe the grass blade, making use of the horizontal rotating blade system with multiple blades. Prior to purchasing a riding lawn mower, it should be borne in mind that they are more costly in terms of both buying price and handling costs.

Riding lawn mowers emit a great deal of noise and cause pollution. They are generally considered a tough proposition as far as maintenance is concerned, compared to all other forms of lawn mowers that are in use.

Before a riding lawn mower is bought, it is vital to examine the yard. Impediments that one needs to overcome while operating a riding lawn mower, including stumps and trees, should also be given adequate thought.

As far as the purchase of a riding lawn mower is concerned, its deck size or blade size should be judged properly. Also to be closely observed is the position of the engine, whether it is in the rear or mounted upfront. Also of crucial importance is the turning radius, or ability of the riding lawn mower to maneuver.

It is wise to carefully note the speed controls, which include alternatives similar to foot pedals, hand lever clutches or hydrostatic drive systems without a clutch. The bagging mode and the price are of vital significance.

Since riding mowers are highly priced, they must be kept in a secure place, well locked, to prevent theft.

Lawn Mowers provides detailed information on Lawn Mowers, Lawn Mower Parts, Riding Lawn Mowers, Lawn Mower Repair and more. Lawn Mowers is affiliated with Blower Fans.

Amaryllis A Perfect Flower For The Festive Season

Writen by Yvonne Cunnington

There's nothing more festive than several amaryllis plants contributing their rich burst of bloom to your house during the holiday season.

Amaryllis may look exotic, but the bulbs are easy to grow. The flowers are large and trumpet-shaped and come in lovely shades ranging from white and apple-blossom pink to scarlet. Some cultivars, such as 'Nymph', even have attractive striped petals.

An amaryllis bulb kit, complete with planting container and potting soil, makes a lovely hostess gift.

Amaryllis care - step-by-step:

1. When you buy an amaryllis bulb, look for a large, plump one with some roots attached. Using a pot that's slightly larger in diameter than the bulb, plant it in potting soil, leaving the "shoulders" – the top third of the bulb – exposed.

2. Keep the soil moist but not wet, and the temperatures above 64ºF (18ºC) - optimal temperatures are between 68 to 77ºF (20 to 25ºC).

3. Place the bulb in bright light and watch for growth to start. You should see a flower bud appear after a couple of weeks. Turn the pot regularly so the flower stalk won't lean in one direction.

4. Sometimes you'll need to support the stalk with a slim bamboo stake and raffia ties.

5. Once the flower is finished, cut off the stem just above the bulb nose. Give amaryllis bright light on a sunny windowsill or under plant lights.

6. Continue to feed and water. Apply a standard water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the recommended strength every two weeks.

To learn how garden writer Yvonne Cunnington encourages her amaryllis to rebloom next year, see: http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/amaryllis.html - Visit Yvonne's website at http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/ for more gardening tips.

Using A Shed As A Garden Office

Writen by Garry John

Some of us would live in our gardens if we could. To be surrounded by the lush beauty of nature and growing things, the soothing sounds of the wind rustling leaves, the buzzing of bees and the sweet trill of the birds is the ultimate in luxury - but it's impractical for most of us. What's not impractical, though, is using a garden shed as a garden office to leave at least some of the stresses of every day work behind.

If you work from home, you know how important having your own space for an office is. It may mean taking over a spare bedroom for your desk and computer, or refinishing a basement room to take you out of the hustle and bustle of the family. Even if you live alone, being 'in the office' adds a psychological nudge that makes you feel like you're at 'work' rather than lounging around the house and subject to distraction. More and more, those who work at home are opting to outfit a garden shed and using it as a garden office.

So popular an option is using a shed as a garden office, that the BBC has reported on it in their online Magazine. According to correspondent Giles Wilson, using a shed as a garden office is a high-priced luxury conversion - but we have our doubts. For the average work-at-home business mom or pop, managing a web site, or selling out of their homes, high end items like 36 power outlets and a full security system aren't necessary. Instead, one could turn a shed into a garden office for far less money - and still enjoy all the benefits of using a shed as a garden office.

First, consider your needs. Do you already have a garden shed? In the house where I grew up, the garden shed was a magical little haven that exactly matched our house in color and style - a tiny little room just the right size to fit a desk and chair and a few office cabinets. For someone like me, a professional writer working at home, converting the garden shed to a garden office would be a simple matter of adding a few outlets - there's electricity there already - and insulating the walls for the winter.

Consider your needs before you start dreaming though. Will you need to run wiring from the house to the shed? Add in the cost of the electricians, then. If you're in an area with cold winters or hot summers, will you need insulation, heat and air conditioning? Remember, it's more than just your comfort you need consider. When you're using a shed as a garden office, you also need to consider the 'comfort' of your equipment. Most electrical equipment - computers and the like - are happiest if the temperature is kept at around 68 F. What about phones? Will you need a land line with multiple extensions - or will your cell phone do just fine? For that matter - with a good wireless connection, can you make do with a laptop and docking station for your computing needs?

Using a shed as a garden office can be a wonderful option - and depending on your needs, it can be extremely affordable - or pure luxury. Think it through, make your plans, and then decide if it's worth it to have a beautiful, comfortable office that makes your workday a pleasure.

Garry John has contributed to many home improvement sites such as garden offices and sun rooms.

Koi Pond Aeration

Writen by Robert Dorrance

To achieve Koi pond aeration, there are some things you can do. One, you can go to your local hobby store or pet supply store and purchase one of those small air pumps, hook some tubing to it, along with an air diffuser or sometimes called an air stone, and place it in your pond. I still have the original one I bought about eight years ago, and it's still working. This has run for almost eight years non-stop, they are very durable. It works two fold, one, to supply air to the pond water and, two, it helps to keep a hole open in the ice during the winter.

Another way to obtain Koi pond aeration is to have different kinds of under water pond plants such as Anacharis and Hornwort. These plants will grow and spread out very well under water. Just kind of put them in small bunches in the bottom of your pond. Just so you know if your plant them in some kind of pot, chances are very good that your Koi will pull them out. Koi are always tugging and uprooting something.

Waterfalls also provide a great way to help aerate the Koi pond. By constantly having water running down a waterfall and crashing into the pond, will help naturally aerate it.

The combination of all the above suggestions will give you the results you need for proper Koi pond aeration.

Robert Dorrance has had a pond for the last eight years and would like to share his experiences with you. Be sure to come by and download the free e-book, How To Build A Beautiful Backyard Pond. Find out more at http://www.Backyard-Pond-Guide.com

Preserving Your Garden Harvest Eat Gardenfresh For 46 Months

Writen by Jim Kennard

Folks, this one's a keeper, so turn on your printer and save it in your gardening library.

With cold weather soon upon us, everyone should be working to save your harvest, either by storing or preserving. Canning, drying, and freezing, are good ways of preserving your crops such as beans, corn, peas, peppers, summer squash, and tomatoes. They need to be done immediately after picking, while crops are fresh and tasty. Whether you cold-store or preserve your produce depends on the type of food you've grown, your facilities, and your family's eating preferences.

Cold storage of vegetables such as cabbage, beets, carrots, potatoes, squash, and turnips can give you the best tasting and healthiest food of the four methods, and may even be the least expensive in the long run. And you can eat every one of these garden-fresh even 4 to 6 months after they've been harvested! However it requires some careful preparation, so let's discuss how best to prepare for and store your fall harvest.

The details of harvesting and properly storing your crops are covered on several of the Mittleider gardening books, including Food For Everyone – all available at www.foodforeveryone.org.

Since tomatoes are many peoples' favorite garden produce, let's discuss them first. Before the first killing frost, pick all your tomatoes, including the green ones. Handle them gently, because cuts or bruises will cause them to spoil quickly. Fruit that's close to ripe can be placed on a kitchen counter, out of direct sunlight, and it will ripen in a few days. Green fruit should be placed on a shelf in a cool, dry place, such as your basement or garage. As they begin to ripen you can bring them into the kitchen. Always remove any fruit that is beginning to spoil. We eat tomatoes into January this way.

Most of your other vegi's need more help to keep them fresh. If your garden is very small and you don't have much to store, you may be able to use an old refrigerator, or a barrel buried in the back yard. However, for those who are serious about providing fresh food for your families, I recommend a root cellar, either under the house or buried outside. A good size is 8' wide and at least 10' deep. This gives you 2' for an aisle and 3' on each side for storage. A shelf on each side is good for things like onions and garlic, which need to be kept dry.

You can set it into the side of a hill or dig a hole 4' to 5' deep in a corner of the yard, build the cellar, and cover it with the excess dirt. This will help insulate it and maintain the low, but not freezing temperatures you need. Provide yourself a small door and insulate it well.

Harvest your crops at peak maturity and store only those which are free of disease or damage. Don't harvest for storage until late fall, since more starches are converted to sugars by the cool weather. Root crops should be picked fresh and stored immediately. Potatoes and squash, on the other hand, first need to be cured at 60-75 degrees for 7 to 14 days. Most produce should be stored at just above freezing temperatures, except winter squash, which does better at or above 50 degrees.

Your root crops will stay fresh and sweet for months if you harvest them with roots intact and pack them in wet sawdust. Cabbage and other brassicas also need their roots. Remove outer leaves, then pack the roots in wet sawdust, leaving the cabbage exposed. Provide separation between crops to avoid mixing flavors, and to keep squash dry.

Potatoes should not be as wet as the root crops. They will do well in temperatures below 40 degrees, but pack them in slightly moist, rather than wet sawdust. Peat moss and sand, or combinations of all three, can be substituted for straight sawdust, but are not as ideal. I recommend you work with your neighbors to find a sawmill, and obtain a truckload.

Onions and garlic also store well. They can handle cold temperatures but, like winter squash, they do better with humidity only 60 to 70 percent. Therefore these should be up off the damp floor, on shelves or hung from the ceiling. A cold basement can also work, but be sure to provide separation from living areas to avoid the strong smell.

Remember, cold temperatures are essential for good long-term storage of vegetables, but do not let them freeze! Insulate your root cellar well. Good healthy eating to you! More details are at www.foodforeveryone.org in the FAQ section. © 2006 - James B. Kennard

Jim Kennard, President Food For Everyone Foundation "Teaching the world to grow food one family at a time." www.foodforeveryone.org

Jim Kennard, President of Food For Everyone Foundation, has a wealth of teaching and gardening training and experience upon which to draw in helping the Foundation "Teach the world to grow food one family at a time." Jim has been a Mittleider gardener for the past twenty nine years; he is a Master Mittleider Gardening Instructor, and has taught classes and worked one-on-one with Dr. Jacob Mittleider on several humanitarian gardening training projects in the USA and abroad. He has conducted projects in Armenia, America, Madagascar, and Turkey by himself. He assists gardeners all over the world from the http://www.foodforeveryone.org website FAQ pages and free Gardening Group, and grows a large demonstration garden at Utah's Hogle Zoo in his spare time. Gardening Books, CDs and Software are available at http://www.foodforeveryone.org

Tips And Techniques For Watering Your Container Garden Plants

Writen by Mary Hanna

The importance of proper watering cannot be stressed enough for your container garden plants. Container Gardens are exposed to wind and sun so they dry out quicker than plants in the ground. There are no exact rules about watering your container garden plants. You have to become acquainted with the needs of various garden plants. The best tip is to examine them daily and water the plant when the surface of the soil begins to look dry. Feeling the soil will also help you determine the moisture needs of your container garden. Or, take the easy way and invest in a water meter if you are not sure.

How much and when to water will depend on the kind of plant and soil, the type and size of container, and the amount of exposure to sun and wind. Climate and the weather also play their part. During hot spells most plants in your container garden need daily water, except those in small clay pots, which may require it twice. Some plants, like fuchsias and tuberous begonias, wilt when dry, but geraniums and succulents are not so sensitive to neglect. On the other hand, it is good to let soil dry out a little between watering. This prevents the soil from depleting its nutrients.

Since unglazed containers dry out quickest, watch them more closely. Wooden tubs, window boxes, and planters dry out more slowly; metal is the slowest of all. Groups of plants in large containers keep moist longer than single specimens. A good technique to avoid excess dryness is to have groupings of plants, arranged close together. This allows the container plants to shade one another to keep cool and stop moisture evaporation.

There are several methods of watering the plants. If you have many containers in your container garden, depend on the hose, allowing water to flow through slowly and gently. Water small pots with a watering can that has a long spout or buy one of the self watering containers now available. When plants are grouped closely in a container garden, set up a sprinkler or hose with a fine spray nearby, allowing it to run for a long while, until the soil is soaked. In many states where the climate is dry, an automatic sprinkler system is a must to keep your whole garden hydrated. Remember this tip with geraniums and petunias, avoid sprinklers which spot blossoms.

One thing is certain; you must not depend on rain to keep your container garden plants hydrated. Even heavy showers deposit a surprisingly small amount of moisture, and unless rains are frequent and lengthy, you must do your own watering. Remember those window boxes and other containers near houses or under trees can stay dry in spite of an all-day downpour.

Though it is essential to give enough water to your container garden, it is equally important not to over water and so cause root rot. Over-watering also prevents aeration of the soil, and will cause the plant to drown.

One good method is to set your container garden, if the containers are not too large, in a basin or pail of water for several hours, or until the surface of the soil feels moist (this is the theory behind self watering containers). Or immerse the pot in a tub or large barrel of water and leave it there until air is eliminated and the bubbling stops.

The best general rule is to soak soil thoroughly when you water and then allow it to go just a bit dry before you water your container garden again. Best of all, keep a small spiral notebook and paste the care of each plant into it so that you will always have the needs of each individual plant at your fingertips.

If you go away for long periods during the summer, give the container garden serious thought before making it a project. On the other hand, you can enjoy both holidays and plants if you are absent for only short periods. The best safeguard is to entrust your container garden to a responsible friend. Or if you are going away for a vacation at your second home, or one that you have rented, take the container garden with you as a little bit of home.

Several techniques can be practiced. One is to arrange smaller containers in boxes of peat moss, sawdust, or soil, which has been well soaked. Then there is the pot-in-pot method, whereby small pots are set in larger ones, with moist peat moss inserted between.

As mentioned above, in many of the garden centers self watering containers are offered for sale. These are ideal for your container garden when you are traveling or taking a vacation.

Happy Container Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Cruising, Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.GardeningHerb.com, http://www.CruiseTravelDirectory.com, and http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com

How To Grow Cabbage

Writen by Terry Blackburn

Growing Cabbage

Cabbage when cooked well is a delicious, and nutritious vegetable that has suffered over the years from lack of imagination and over cooking by unaccomplished chefs. It is now extensively used in salads and Coleslaw the best varieties for this are some of the Savoy's, who are thin-leaved, tender, mild and tasty. Cabbage also plays a large part in many main course dishes. It is the oldest and most widely grown vegetable of the Brassicas group, and belongs to the mustard family. Other members of this group include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, kale, and turnips. There are several different types of cabbage - round-headed, flat-headed for spring and summer sowing, the pointed varieties for spring sowing, special pointed varieties for autumn and spring sowing, large drum-head varieties and the red kinds for spring sowing; green and purple; large and small heads; flat, oval, conical and globular; Savoy types; and those with either smooth or crumpled leaves.

Cabbage plants need cool weather and therefore ideal for my own part of the country. They are easy to grow; they can be grown as transplants or the seed directly sown into the soil. Early types mature fast and can run to seed quickly so they must be harvested as soon as they are ready; later varieties mature in late summer or autumn when the weather is cooler so their growth is slower and can be allowed to remain in the ground longer. Late ones will keep well, up to 6 months when kept at 32F and at 98-100% relative humidity.

Soil Preparation

Cabbages will grow in all kinds of soils, though the varieties that are ready for use in spring prefer a lighter soil, which warms up quickly after the turn of the year and encourages the roots to grow earlier.

Cabbage is a heavy feeder, so spread plenty of manure in the bed at the rate of a bucketful to the sq. yd. make sure that the soil is not acid; apply carbonate of lime at 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd. unless the soil is chalky. The optimum pH is 6 to 6.5, greater than 7 the disease club root can take hold. Because they are a hungry crop, taking up a lot of nitrogen and potassium, it should be given frequent top-dressing of nitrate of soda, sulphate of ammonia or dried blood at the rate of ½ oz. (15g) per plant. Cabbage has shallow roots, so cultivation should be shallow. To ensure that the roots are kept cool and moist a thick mulch is an excellent way of doing this and it will help to keep down weeds.

Sowing

A semi-shady seedbed is best that has been treaded after raking, then raked once more; scratch out drills ½ in. (12mm) deep and 6 in. (15cm) apart. Fertility for cabbages is relatively high so the seed should be sown thinly and a rake used to cover them up; the top should then be firmed with a rake head.

Planting

Plants grown as transplants may be planted out into beds that has been well watered the day before. With a dibber make rows of holes in the planting-out area 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart, leaving 1 ft. (30cm) between the holes in each row.

General Care

Hoe between the rows to keep down the weeds. For those types grown over winter, should the soil be heavy, make a 4 in. (101mm) furrow between the rows to take away excess moisture. Poor environmental conditions during growth can lead to problems when the cabbage is harvested. High temperatures and low moisture can cause small plants and give low yield; they also lead to long stems and outer leaves to drop. Cabbage requires about 1 in. (25mm) of water per week, which should be given throughout the growing season to prevent splitting of the heads. It is a good idea to place a barrier around the plants; this can be a fine net or horticultural fleece, supported by strong, thick, wire stalks in a kind of cloche that will prevent flying insects from laying their eggs on the plants.

Harvesting The cabbages can be cut as soon as they have good hearts. Pull up stumps, put them on the compost heap.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Miniature Roses

Writen by Jacqueline Carroll

Don't let the delicate appearance fool you! These little gems are hardy enough to grow outdoors in zones 6-10 without winter protection, and with a good cover of mulch they will survive winters as far north as zone 4. Miniature roses are surprisingly easy to grow, and they look great as edgings for your beds or borders, accent plants for rock gardens, and as houseplants.

Miniature roses range in size from the micro-minis which grow to about five inches, up to a height four feet or more. The flowers are from 1/2 inch to two inches in diameter, and the range of colors is similar to that of full-sized roses. Most types will bloom from spring until frost. Unfortunately, miniature roses have little or no fragrance.

When grown indoors as pot plants, miniature roses need a little special care. Even when grown in the sunniest window, they will usually need supplemental light. You will know your rose isn't getting enough light when the stems seem to stretch out leaving wide spaces between the leaves.

Miniature roses also need lots of humidity if kept indoors. Set your pot in a tray of pebbles and water. The pebbles will support the pot above the water level so the soil doesn't become waterlogged. As it evaporates, the water will provide the plant with extra humidity. If you house is very dry, run a cool-mist vaporizer now and then.

Spider mites and whiteflies are drawn to indoor miniature roses. To reduce the chances of these pests attacking your plants, give them a weekly shower. Take care to thoroughly rinse both the tops and the undersides of the leaves. To treat whiteflies, use an insecticidal soap at five day intervals or spray with a solution of four parts water to three parts rubbing alcohol -- add a squirt of dish soap for good measure -- and keep the plant out of the light until the alcohol dries completely.

Soap spray and alcohol spray also work for spider mites, and you might also try buttermilk spray: mix 1/2 cup buttermilk with 4 cups wheat flour to 5 gallons of water. Quarantine infested plants until you are sure that the insects are irradiated. In extreme cases, you can strip the leaves off the plant and cut it back by half. Don't worry, you won't kill it, and you'll soon see signs of new growth.

For the best blooms, use a fertilizer that is high in potassium. The last number in the N-P-K ratio indicates the amount of potassium, and an N-P-K ratio of 5-5-10 is a good choice. Mix the fertilizer to about 1/4 strength and use it once a week.

After your roses spend a season indoors, it's best to plant them outdoors and get new, disease and pest-free plants to use indoors. They can be planted directly in the garden or kept in containers, but remember that outdoor plants in small containers can dry out quickly. Harden them off before placing them outdoors permanently.

Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardeners, and GardenGuidesKids.com. http://www.gardenguides.com http://www.gardenguideskids.com

How To Find The Major Riding Mower Manufacturers

Writen by Andrew Caxton

Why walk when you can ride? so goes the adage of a famous lawn tractor manufacturer company. How very true! You need not walk when you can run or drive or even hitch on to a bandwagon. The same is true of using the riding lawn mower manufacturers. When you can get simple things done in an easy way, why try an out of way solution? You can find riding mower manufacturers in every yellow pages directory

Established Lawn Mower manufacturers

Every major manufacturer of automobile has presence in the agricultural equipment segment and it is no wonder, that they have presence in the riding mower segment too. After all, the machine they make is the same only the riding chassis is different and the work it does is different.

Provide a power take off at the bottom and attach a blade to it and you have a riding mower ready for you. Established players like Honda, Ford and all other automobile giants along with specialized manufacturers like John Deere manufacture riding lawn mowers.

Niche Manufacturers of Riding Lawn Mowers

Some manufacturers specialize in the manufactures of agricultural implements and specialized equipments for home garden section. These manufacturers have now ventured in lawnmowers. The case of John Deere is very old and some new manufacturers have come in and started doing what John Deere has done (and have become successful in that).

The manufacturers like Toro, Coronet, Ariens, Husqvarna, have an established presence in this niche market and are standing up to competition from the majors like the one given above. The manufacturers have some good models like LX series, GT 2000 series, 5XI series and more like it. Toro and Simplicity from Coronet are worth mentioning. The models have been well received in the market and are worth the money.

There are others like Case, Murray, Snapper. These manufacturers are very popular in the North America segment and are very popular in Europe.

There are still ore manufacturers like Grasshopper, Troy built, Dixon industries, Club cadet who have not made it big but with the quality and production range they have, they have the capacity to make it big and stand up to the giants like Honda, Ford, John Deere.

Competition From China

Competition from Chine is increasing and many Chinese manufacturers are eyeing at the North America and European markets. They have successful penetrated the markets and have been enticing the market with lower cost. In fact, it is only because of the lower costs, their market penetration is good.

Since it is a market for consumer durables, the market also looks at the price. The American and European markets are quality conscious and are not very price sensitive. The market capturing will depend on the quality of the product and may be that the Chinese will improve the quality and capture market as Japanese manufacturers have done in automobile segment in a not too distant past.

With so many choices how do you choose? If you are new to riding mowers, you might depend on feedback from friends, or if you are the type that is not averse to risk taking, go for Chinese manufacturers and there is a 90% chance that you will not be sorry.

Andrew Caxton is a reliable journalist who has published more articles on this issue for www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com . If you would like more information on this topic please checkout his website, with tips on walk behind and riding lawn mowers

How To Install A Liner Pond

Writen by Gerry Fung

Liner ponds are ideal for the experienced water gardener because they allow for very forgiving installations, which consequently promotes greater creativity. However, for the very same reasons, liner ponds also take require some pre-planning. Before you commence a liner pond project, you should purchase a pond liner that is of the appropriate size for your pond dimensions. To determine the appropriate liner size, it is recommended that you use a pond liner calculator (I.e. like the one on GardenSM.com's website). To follow are instructions and tips on how you can install your very own liner pond.

It is recommended that you purchase an EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) liner that is at least 45 mil in thickness. EPDM is a highly stable material that stays flexible in temperatures from -40 degrees Fahrenheit to 175 degrees Fahrenheit. Unlike other liner materials, it does not contain plasticizers that could cause it to become brittle with age. EPDM will also last longer than other liner materials because it is resistant to the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UV), and it has high expansion and contraction characteristics that enable it to conform to rocks and tree roots in the earth sub grade.

Once you have designed the pond on paper, and purchased all the necessary materials, you should start by marking the outline of the pond with rope or a garden hose. Start by digging a coping shelf around the perimeter of the pond. The coping shelf will help to hold the boulder, rockwork, and the liner overlay into place. The coping shelf should be approximately 2" deep and 16 to 18 inches wide. It is recommended that you utilize a square shovel to dig the coping shelf, because round or sharp-pointer shovels can leave small furrows in the dirt.

After ensuring that the coping shelf is level all around the pond, dig a bog shelf for plants. Most ponds are designed with shelves 9" to 12" below the water level. Afterwards, the center (I.e. deepest area) of the pond should be dug. The deep area should slope in approximately 20 degrees from the vertical.

Prepare the hole for the liner by removing sharp stones or roots. At this point, you have the option of lining the excavation with pond underlayment. Although it is not mandatory, underlayment helps to cover the entire surface, to protect the liner from below. Liner underlayment does not need to be in a single piece, hence smaller pieces can be overlapped. However, it is recommended that you tape smaller underlayment pieces together, to keep the pieces from moving after the liner is placed on top.

The liner should be carefully laid-out into the hole. Although a 45 mil liner is thick and durable, care must be taken to make certain that the liner is not damaged or punctured during installation. Unlike the underlayment, the liner must be a single unbroken sheet. Try to minimize the folding and pleating of the liner, because folds have the potential to trap dirt and debris. A perfectly intact liner should last for 40 years before it begins to deteriorate.

Now you're ready to fill the pond with water! As you're filling the pond, stop the hose periodically to smooth out wrinkles in the liner. After the pond has been filled, you can cut off any excess liner, but make sure that enough material is left to allow the liner to extend over the coping shelf (and underneath whatever edging is planned). The liner can be anchored with boulders, or long nails around its edge. Edging materials should be applied around the liner to weigh it down, which has the added benefit of giving your pond a natural look.

At this point, the most difficult part of the installation has been completed. All that remains to be done is to install the pump, and decorate around the pond. However, if you find yourself with an uncontrollable urge to expand your water garden, you should definitely consider the installation of a cascade or waterfall.

For more information on installing a liner pond, please go to http://www.gardensupermart.com.

Liner pond kits, complete with liner, appropriately sized pump, and fountain heads, can be purchased from GardenSM.com's website at http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c229944.2.html.

An Introduction To Gardens

Writen by Jimmy Sturo

Man's fascination for gardens dates back to the time of Adam and Eve and the Garden of Eden. The fascination continues and to this day, a small garden by one's house is the dream of many homeowners. This is especially true of a city dweller. A chance to bring in some nature is what a garden provides to a city dweller. In the recent years people have moved away from nature, with technology and science keeping him indoors most of the time. Gardens are a small attempt by people to reconnect with nature's bounties. City developers have recognized the need for gardens in cities and now plan for them. Green spaces are the lungs of cities. Their value and indispensability has been recognized and they are provided for.

Gardens have the capacity to gratify all our senses. They provide a pleasant sight for the eyes, sweet smelling flowers and fresh plants, fruits tickle our taste buds, birds that nest in their trees provide pleasant sounds for our ears and the fresh breeze blowing through, leaves a pleasant feeling on our skins. It is no wonder that man has always tried to create spaces that bring nature close to him. Examples of such creations abound in every part of the world. The ancient world had created the hanging gardens of Babylon, a true wonder. It was listed among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

All ancient civilizations had huge gardens. Excavations show their existence. Slowly gardens began to be cultivated specifically for medicinal herbs. The Chelsea Physic Garden in London established in 1673 is one of the earliest known botanical gardens. With time, recreational gardens came into being with royal patronage. Large houses started taking pride in ornamental gardens and the trend continues to this day. Vegetable gardens and fruit orchards slowly became popular. As flowers came to be appreciated a trend of planned cultivation of flowers started. Many 20th century housing estates in Europe and the U.S. saw the advent of miniature landscaped gardens with lawns and flowerbeds. The trend came to stay.

Gardens are cultivated at all levels right from the local administration to the small house owner. Botanical gardens are cultivated and maintained by the local administration to maintain the botanical diversity of a place. Besides conservation of natural balance these gardens serve the cause of science and education too. They are used to nurture plants from other parts of the world and are often associated with university classes pursuing such studies.

Gardens provides detailed information on Gardens, Flower Gardens, Garden Décor, Garden Furniture and more. Gardens is affiliated with Flower Gardening.

Fire Ants

Writen by Josh Riverside

Fire ants are considered a notorious pest and can sometimes be life threatening. Two main species of fire ants, namely black imported solenopsis rchteri gorel and red ants solenopsis invicta buren are responsible for causing wide spread damage to crops, cattle and humans. The term imported fire ant stems from the fact that two species were fortuitously imported to the United States in the 1930's from South America.

A fire ant's sting can cause a sever allergic reaction lasting up to 10 days, at times posing a serious threat to life. Fire ants also adversely affect the ecosystem. Ants and several invertebrates are actually vital to the eco-system, as they aid in mixing and aerating the soil.

There are several reasons for the rapid spread of the imported fire ants. They have an extremely active reproductive capacity and can have several queens reproducing aggressively in a single colony. The queen cans transverse over a great distance before establishing a colony. In areas where the natural invertebrate predators are more powerful, fire ants may pose less of a problem. However, when humans cultivate or develop an area, the natural competing enemies of fire ants are eliminated and they reproduce rapidly.

Fire ants usually colonize inconspicuously in open sunny areas in mounts. They also colonize in walls of buildings, rotting wood, etc. Fire ants have omnivorous feeding habits and can consume only liquid or solids that are converted to liquid by regurgitating digestive enzymes. Quarantine measures have been introduced by the United States to safeguard areas that have not yet been infested.

Ants provides detailed information on Ants, Fire Ants, Carpenter Ants, Ant Farms and more. Ants is affiliated with Cave Crickets.

Take The Blossom Of Various Types Of Flowering Trees

Writen by Khieng Chho

Delight your loved ones for springs to come with a blossom of flowering trees. Every time the springtime arrives, they will be reminded of your great love and thoughtfulness. Simple things as they may seem but it can never be compared to a luxurious gift.

Aside from the personalized gifts that you can give them during special occasions you can try buying flowering tree. It could be the best present that you can give them. By simply placing it inside their room the flowers that it bears could bring fragrance and soothing feeling to them.

Typically the common flowering tree that is given as a present is a bonsai type. This is ideal for limited space in your home or office. It is best to place it on a center table together with a scented candle and some accentuations. Surely, it will create beautiful scenery.

Aside from the bonsai type of flowering tree there are also some flowering species that produce an assortment of fine-looking and vibrant color of flowers. These are suited for various landscapes in the different places in United States.

Here are some of the various types of flowering trees:

• Ann Magnolia

The flowers are bigger in size and the colors are mixed red and purple. It can grow as tall as 10 feet. It is best planted on a well-drained moist type of soil. Its season usually falls in the month of April.

• Aristocrat Flowering Pear

It is characterized with a dominant and sturdy trunk that makes it less susceptible to any damage cause by the strong wind. Its foliage is dark green that is appealing to the eyes. This is also one of the fastest growing flowering trees because it reaches a height of 40 to 60 feet. It is more tolerant on warm places.

• Black Cherry

This is a native flowering tree found in Northern and Southern part of America and Mexico. It is a bit easy to grow black cherry because it is suited in both lowland and upland places especially along the stream. Like the aristocrat, black cherry also grows with a height of 50 to 80 feet. Its scented white flowers make the cherry tree fabulous. After the white flowers appear it is followed with drooping small red cherries that ripen in the late summer.

Choose among the various types of flowering trees and make your place a paradise.

Khieng 'Ken' Chho is author and owner of Flowering Fruit Trees. For related articles, visit Ken's website: http://floweringtrees.wicwoc.com