Hardy Hibiscus

Writen by Kent Pinkerton

Hardy Hibiscus, noted for its huge flowers, differs from the original tropical ones in several ways. These perennials are usually obtained from cross-pollinated parent stock and have many advantages over the tropical variety. They require very little watering and care once established and are less prone to insect and leaf problems. The stunning flowers of hardy Hibiscus are truly giant in size, up to 12" in diameter. Originally, only limited colors were available. Recently, more shades and types have been developed. The leaves of most hardy Hibiscus plants are heart-shaped and a dull green color. Some have reddish, dark foliage. The bulbs can be as long as four inches.

The hardy Hibiscus is easy to grow and is a good survivor of winter. It can be successfully planted in Zone 5, and with additional protection in Zones 3 and 4 as well. By the end of fall, they die out. If the dead branches are weeded out, fresh shoots come up in spring. These develop fast and produce spectacular blooms. The new types are more compact and are normally smaller than the original shrubs. Some of the more popular varieties are Kopper King, Fireball and Blue River II.

It is better to plant hardy Hibiscus in an area where sunlight is available for at least six to eight hours a day, preferably early in the season. The plant will grow in most types of soil. Slightly acidic soil is ideal. Until it stabilizes, regular watering is required. The plant can be grown using cuttings or seeds, although only a handful of varieties are grown from seeds. The germination time is about two to four weeks. Both seeds and cuttings are available in the market.

Plant the hardy Hibiscus at the edge of the garden. It will tower over the other plants and provide a fascinating background.

Hibiscus provides detailed information about hibiscus, hardy hibiscus and more. Hibiscus is affiliated with Silk Flower Arrangements.

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Garden Statuary Time For A Fresh New Look

Writen by Brian Dalton

Spring is coming, and now is the time to get out and whip those outdoor spaces into shape. With new growth appearing on trees, bulbs popping up and birds and butterflies coming out of hiding, your patio, garden or backyard is ripe for a fresh new look with decorative accents that put a delightful finishing touch on your own little corner of nature.

Fountains, always a favorite, add the beauty of sculpture plus the relaxing sound of water, and bring a unique elegance to your garden or patio. Many people never consider fountains because they are afraid of the difficulty of transporting and installing large stone structures, not to mention the cost. The great news is that now you can get beautiful, classically sculptured fountains in modern cast materials for a fraction of the cost and weight of stone.

Alabastrite, a cast resin filled with powdered stone, can be made to look and feel like marble, granite, sandstone, concrete, even bronze -- and it costs far less than traditional stone fountains. No longer do you have to pay a lot for the beauty of classical garden fountains... modern technology has brought the elegance of the past within reach of today's patios and gardens!

For many others, the main issue is space. Apartments and condos, when they provide patio or balcony space at all, offer little room for large outdoor items. For those concerned about space, however, fountains are still a great idea. Consider a stylish tabletop fountain, small enough to fit on a patio table or garden shelf, or even in your living room, den or bedroom.

The wide range of designs and styles available today guarantees that you can always find something to fit your taste, and the small size ensures that you can always find room! Beauty for both the eyes and the ears is now available for every home, regardless of the size!

Take a fresh look at today's fountains, and you'll see why fountains are now a great choice for bringing a fresh new look to your garden, patio or backyard.

Brian Dalton owns and maintains the Springtime Gardens website, and spends countless happy hours decorating and maintaining his own patios and container gardens. Springtime Gardens - Affordable Garden and Patio Decor

Copyright 2005 BKD Enterprises

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Tips For Organic Farming

Writen by Morgan Hamilton

I really surprised myself by becoming involved with organic farming just if you are short years ago, and boy am I glad that I did. I was going through some tough times in my little home. I live in a small ranch style house in the California country, attempting to make a living as a handyman. Work turned out to be a little more scarce than I first had anticipated and times call for a little belt tightening to say the least.

I got a book on organic farming, figuring that if I grew my own food, it would help things along for me. My feeling was that I would use up some of my increasingly abundant free time, save some money on food, and perhaps best of all, began eating more healthy diet. Once more, it would give me a sense of pride. Having something to do keep your mind sound and your spirits from sinking.

I actually have been consuming organic farming for for quite some time, but never really gave it much thought. I guess that I still don't in some ways. I was doing it in such a small scale that I had no idea how huge in industry organic farming really had become. The large corporate farming interests have to find ways to grow huge fields of the same crop, and they can afford expensive measures to control pests without using any unnatural pesticides. I was again a little different in this respect in that I did not have the expertise or resources to fight the little varmints, so I had to get clever so that my organic farming would not be compromised.

The first thing I had to deal with or slug. Did you realize that peer works great for getting rid of slugs? They are attracted to the liquid itself but are then ironically drowned in it. What you might not realize until you try organic farming, is that there are always more slugs out to ravage your crops. You wouldn't believe how much of the pain in the butt these little fellas are. But I found that they weren't even the worst of it. Little bunny rabbits or a huge threat to my organic farming venture. You see, unlike my neighbors,

I never have sprayed my lawn, so I have always had a family of cute little bunnies living in my yard. But there are two things bunnies are known for, and the lesser known one is equally impressive. You wouldn't believe the voracious appetites on these little guys and gals. As for carrots, it's not fiction, they really do love them. Organic farming is wonderful but you had better be prepared to roll up your sleeves and put in the work.

Morgan Hamilton offers his findings and insights regarding gardening. You can get interesting and informative information here at Organic Farming

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Pest Control Tips For Maintaining Your Greenhouse

Writen by Holly Masters

Greenhouses provide a warm, humid atmosphere and are home to a variety of different plants and flowers which is why they are a perfect target for insects. There are numerous types of insects which will want to live in your greenhouse and feed off of the wonderful plants and flowers which you have put so much time and effort into maintaining. The information below will provide you with tips and guidelines to follow in order to ensure you are doing everything in your power to ward off any unwanted pests.

The first step in learning how to prevent and eliminate insects from entering into your greenhouse is to understand and become familiar with the types of insects which are likely to reside there. The following is a list of the most common types of insects which you will likely find in your greenhouse:

● Aphids
● Fungus Gnats
● Flies (many forms)
● Bloodworms
● Thrips
● Caterpillars
● Mites
● Slugs and Snails

Now that you are aware of the different types of bugs and insects which may have taken up residence in your greenhouse, it's time to learn how to prevent and/or eliminate them from remaining there.

Here are a number of things to keep in mind in order to ensure there are no bugs in your greenhouse:

1. Always keep all doors, screens and windows shut when not being used for specific purposes.

2. Inspect all new plants to ensure there are no bugs on them to begin with. Bugs have the ability to multiply quickly and can potentially cause a huge infestation in your greenhouse.

3. Make sure there is no water lying around whether it is in jugs, cups or in a puddle on the floor. Insects are attracted to wet areas.

4. Keep your greenhouse in good, clean condition. Not only do insects like water but they like to disguise themselves under areas of clutter. This also means keeping the lawn around your greenhouse mowed and neat at all times. Many pests reside in weeds, if you keep your lawn cut there will be no weeds for the insects to reside in.

5. Bright colors such as yellow and red attract insects. Try not to wear or display (other than on the flowers themselves) any bright colors which may attract unwanted insects.

These guidelines will provide you with the basic knowledge you will need to ensure there are no unwanted insects in your greenhouse. Now you can relax and enjoy all the hard work which went into creating such an amazing atmosphere.

Holly Masters loves to garden and takes pride in her greenhouse. She has spent much time learning about greenhouses and serves as a contributing writer for http://www.greenhousesandgazebos.com – a site that offers information about everything from sunrooms to greenhouse kits.

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Composting For Kids

Writen by Katina Mooneyham

I'd think some kids would say yuck to the prospect of a compost bin especially when they learn of the rot and decay that go on in the pile. Some kids might think it interesting. Either way, knowing that compost helps the garden to grow better, faster and more productive can help change a kid's mind about compost or make it more interesting.

What is Composting?

A compost pile is basically rotted material used to supplement a garden area with nutrients and moisture retention power. But it's more than just a pile of rot. There is a science and art to a compost pile.

Everything rots eventually. When it breaks down, it breaks down into a simpler, less complex substance. This can be stimulated by many things in the environment including weathering (erosion) and other chemicals.

The soil consists of layers. The top layer is often called the organic material layer because it's where the plants get their nutrients. When you form a compost pile, you are adding to this ability to maintain the correct amount of nutrients and add a moisture retention ability, the ability to hold water which the living plants need.

Building a Compost Bin

Compost piles can be simple or they can be elaborate. Kids can usually dig the simple compost pile. It's simple and yet a very effective compost pile.

Containing the compost is the best bet because it allows you to control the pile better. It also prevents wind or animals from coming and destroying your compost pile.

Any type of container will do as long as you have some air holes. The air does help break down the compost pile. Remember, it needs to rot. You could also take building materials such as bricks, blocks or wood and build a small box or rectangular shaped container. Then make sure you have some sort of lid even just a piece of wood that you place on top.

Be sure to turn the compost at least once a day, preferably twice a day in hotter weather. The compost pile needs to cook. Cook? Yes, it gets hot and that helps organisms such as bacteria to further the rotting process. You can constantly add stuff to the compost pile as it continues to break down. It can take a little or long time to break down things depending on what it put into the compost pile.

What to Put into the Compost Pile

There are many things that can be put into the compost pile and there are some things you should not put into the compost pile. You can put leaves and grass clippings from when you (or your parents) mow the lawn. These help add nutrients too. You can also add table scraps such as the leftover green peas or other vegetables.

Just be sure not to add any scraps that include meat or other material that contains oil like pastas. These can cause an odor and that might attract unwanted visitors to your compost pile such as raccoons, opossums and insects.

You can add some things to a compost pile like a compost starter substance that you buy at a home and garden store. This contains helpful bacteria that help break down the compost pile faster and effectively.

Remember to turn your compost pile at least once or twice a day. Turn it also when you add new stuff to mix it in good. Begin a compost pile today and you will have a very rich garden in the future.

Katina Mooneyham is the contributing editor for Little Gardeners (http://www.gardenandhearth.com/LittleGardeners.htm)at Garden and Hearth.com. She has written various articles on gardening mostly about gardening with kids. She maintains a blog on gardening at http://littlegardeners.blogspot.com

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Small Leaf Shredder The New Must Own Gardening Tool

Writen by David Down

With the current and ever growing pressure on landfill sites in the United States it has become every gardeners responsibility to make best use of the garden waste they produce. Critical to this effort is finding a way to turn common garden refuse such as grass leaves and twigs into usable compost material, and in recent years this has become a much simpler task with the development of the small leaf shredder.

A small leaf shredder is a relatively new innovation, evolving from the larger industrial power tools used to chop and chip large wood material such as branches and logs. A leaf shredder does not require the cutting and shredding power of a wood chipper, but takes the same principles and basic design and incorporates it into a much smaller portable vacuum unit, very similar in look to a lawnmower with a chute attachment. In addition many shredders will include an entry point for manually inserting small branches which would not be picked up by the vacuum. Some of the larger units also incorporate a funnel which allows leaves to be raked directly into the machine rather than requiring the vacuum.

The unit is pushed around the garden sucking up all the leaves and small timber debris and chops and shreds into an attacked disposal bag, perfect for adding to your compost heap. The leaves which are chopped and shredded break down into compost much easier and quicker than whole leaves and so in addition to reducing their volume by more than 10 times the composting breakdown occurs much faster.

A small leaf shredder is different from the larger chipper units in that it needs smaller rotating blades to shred the leaves. The power required to shred this delicate material is also very low compared to the larger machines which need large blades and significant horsepower for chopping branches and larger pieces of wood. Most small leaf shredders will be electrically powered, the blades spinning from the moment the power is switched on, and only stopping when the power is switched off. This is in contrast to the larger units which will generally be gasoline powered and will have motors and a clutch keeping the cutting and chipping action isolated from the motor power.

Internally a small leaf shredder contains a screen which only lets material that has been shredded to a small enough size to pass through. Screens can often be replaced with various sizes to control how fine the shredding action is. Naturally the screens will occasionally clog, especially if the leaves are wet, but in general the shredders operate smoothly and efficiently.

With growing environmental concerns the small leaf shredder has become a must buy tool for many modern gardeners, no longer just the preserve of those with very large gardens.

http://www.woodshredderchipper.info provides additional information about small leaf shredders, plus larger wood shredder chippers for purchase and rental.

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A Guide To Mosquitos

Writen by Kent Pinkerton

Mosquitos are insects which survive by drinking mammalian blood. The general breeding ground for these tiny flying pests is swampy areas, and dirt infested zones. Any place in a filthy situation attracts mosquitos. In fact, they are increasingly becoming urban pests, mainly in zones that have been reclaimed and developed into a concrete jungle. Nature is their natural habitat and so when you are out for a camp of picnic or then nature trail they are part of the visiting committee.

There are a couple of varying species of mosquitos. The anopheles species of mosquitos carry the malaria parasites. The species belonging to the aedes genus carry dengue fever causing parasites. These two species are found almost all over the world. However a rare species hails from the southern States of America and in certain tropical zones of the world, which causes elephantiasis and human encephalitis. These mosquitos belong to the genus culex.

Nothing can be done to make any zone completely mosquito-free, as these flying insects breed in thousands and thousands, each year. While they have short lives, they give birth to many more in their life span. However, one must take all precautions to protect their surroundings from these pests.

Apart from the numerous repellents, there are various plants that keep away mosquitos, as well as pesticides. But the most important thing to do is keep the surroundings absolutely clean. There are also the mosquito nets that trap them, preventing them from entering the home, and other spaces covered by them.

Mosquitos provides detailed information on Mosquitos, Mosquito Repellent, Mosquito Magnets, Mosquito Control and more. Mosquitos is affiliated with Deer Ticks.

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Fall Autumn Color American Beech

Writen by Paul Wonning

Fagus grandifoloa Family - Fagus - Beech

With the exception of Florida and northern Maine, the American Beech inhabits forests in the entire eastern portion of North America east of the Mississippi River. The fall leaves turn a golden yellow. The leaves, especially on younger trees, are retained into winter. The golden brown of these leaves, combined with the soft, gray color of the smooth bark creates a wonderland effect in the freshly fallen snows of early winter.

American Beech is at its best, attaining its largest sizes in the Ohio River and Mississippi River Valleys. Beech nuts mature in the autumn and form the diets of a great variety of woodland creatures. The nuts are rich in oil, and are eaten in great quantities by wild turkeys, squirrels and chipmunks, and many different types of birds. The trees will grow to over one hundred feet tall.

American Beech is a fairly slow growing tree, with a close grained wood. Barrels, tool handles and some furniture is constructed from it. The deciduous leaf is simple, dagger shaped and lightly toothed. The bark is a smooth gray, affording a great surface for vandals to deface the tree with graffiti. This should not be done, as it is very injurious to a valuable wildlife tree.

Not only is the American Beech one of the most beautiful deciduous trees found in the woodland, for various reasons it is a valuable tree for wildlife, too. The small nuts are nutritious food for many different types of animals and birds. The trees frequently become hollow with age, providing many animals winter shelter within the warmness of its trunk.

© 2006 Paul Wonning is the owner of Gardens and Nature.com a web site about gardening, hiking and other nature related topics. Our blog about gardening is located here: Hoosier Hurricane - Blog about Gardening Our hobby and craft related blog, Hobby Hobnob, is located at this link: http://hobbyhobnob.blogspot.com/

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Chicken Soup For The Soil

Writen by Jean Fritz

Keeping Your Soil Healthy

Your soil is the most important part of your garden, but too many people forget to nurture their soil. Soil is a living thing, containing microbes, fungi, insect life and general "creepy-crawlies" vital to plant health and vigor, as well as a receptacle for chemicals and trace elements. Doing a little soil prep every fall pays off each and every harvest.

First, add more organic matter. Use your rototiller or your spade, and dig under frostbitten plant material, grass clippings, leaves, wood chips, and compost. Avoid using any diseased plant material as compost – burn it first if there are no local restrictions on burning. If you live near any livestock, cover your garden with 1 – 2" of uncomposted manure, then disguise that with other organic materials, and let the whole thing winter over. A blanket of snow from December through March will turn all of it into about ¼" of the most beautiful topsoil you can imagine.

It's also time to think about soil pH, or the acidity or alkalinity. The addition of organic materials can lower the pH, or make it more acidic. If your soil is already high in acid and you'd like to neutralize it, you can also add lime or wood ashes to your garden. Wood ashes are wickedly alkaline, but after a season or two, create an excellent haven for earthworms and add enough potash to the soil to grow wonderful root crops.

Finally, feed your fungi. Really. Many stores specializing in products for organic gardening and sustainable agriculture sell micorrhizal spores, which is a fungus that helps soil release its nutrients more easily. Micorrhiza needs to be fed in order to reproduce and survive the winter. Use a hose-end sprayer, and fill it halfway with gooey, blackstrap molasses. If you can find the sulphured kind, so much the better. Fill the rest of the sprayer with flat beer, and spray the solution over your garden beds. The sugar in the molasses feeds the existing fungi and beneficial bacteria in the soil, and the yeasts and enzymes in the beer add more.

You'll literally make your soil come alive, and that will help your garden thrive next year.

About The Author

Jean Fritz is a farmer and freelance writer. She owns and operates KittyVista Organics, a small organic farm located east of Indianapolis which specializes in heirloom, open pollenated and unusual varieties of flowers and vegetables. Visit the KittyVista website at http://clik.to/kittyvista/

kittyvista@yahoo.com

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How Bat Houses Can Improve Your Backyard Experience

Writen by Frank Ross

Most people would never consider providing housing for bats. Many people consider bats as creatures to be avoided.

However, there is no real danger to humans from bats. Medical history records show that only 16 people in the United States and Canada have died of bat-related diseases in the past 40 years. That makes the chances of being harmed by a bat extremely low. Furthermore, bats are virtually disease free - less than one-half of one percent of bats contract rabies.

But why provide housing for bats? The answer lies in their diet. Bats are natural consumers of enormous amounts of insects. A single brown bat (Myotis lucifugas or Eptesicus fuscus), the most abundant species of bat in North America, can consume up to 7,000 insects in one evening.

Do you have a mosquito problem in your yard? A proliferation of flies and other insects? Try putting up a bat house. You'll see a decrease in your insect population almost immediately.

The best part is that bats work at night. While you sleep, your natural pest control team can be working to reduce to your insect problem. You do not need to feed bats. You simply need to set up acceptable bat housing to attract them.

The favorite habitats of bats are rapidly disappearing. These include old hollow trees, barns, and old houses. For this reason bats will choose human-made bat houses as permanent roosting sites.

The truth is that bats are misunderstood creatures that are generally quite harmless to people. If you see them as natural insect hunters, you'll see them in quite a different light.

Frank Ross is the owner of several specialized ecommerce sites including My Bird Supplies which sell specific products to specific home and garden markets.

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Caring For Your Water Garden Pond

Writen by Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Each water garden pond you create while gardening must be thought of as a mini-ecosystem. There are many factors that must reach equilibrium in order to have a healthy environment and to have a beautiful water garden. Otherwise you may wind up killing any fish you include and having a sick, algae overgrown mess that is neither attractive nor does much for your gardening efforts.

In this article we are sharing some basic water garden pond care tips that you probably have seen before if you have done any reading about water gardens. Understand these tips go toward achieving a beautiful water garden pond by balancing your water garden plants, the fish you may wish to include, the bacteria that also play an important part and other items.

First off be sure to dechlorinate your water that you include in the pond. This is especially important if you include fish and other creatures. Either allow the water, once your pond is built, to sit for a few weeks or use some type of dechlorination kit to achieve your end.

However you may find your city water supplies have been treated with chloramine. Chloramine can remain in the water for months and you should use a chloramine remover. Fish can be added within 20 minutes of using a chlorimine remover depending upon how well it is circulated through the pond. This is important if and when you may have to drain a pond to clean it out. Don't add fish right away to a new pond. See more information below.

You will want to test the pH of your pond water. Keeping it above 7 and in the 7 to 10 range will help keep the algae down in the pond. Realize when your pond is just starting you do need to give some time for the algae to come into balance and you may have a heavy algae bloom for the first two to six weeks. As long as the pH is as above, this should clear up. You can add submerged plants that will help remove the nutrients the algae uses and help filter the water. You can actually think of algae as a sign of how well you have maintained the balance within your water garden pond after the first few weeks. Too much floating on top and you have a problem.

Once you begin to add fish and plants to the pond, the first rule is "Don't crowd". You can always add more later on if it appears you have the room. Fish will grow and so will the plants. You will get a lush appearance eventually but trying to force it right away can cause diseases among your fish and perhaps even encourage too much algae growth.

Fact is you will want to be sure that you do not completely cover over the surface of the water garden pond even later. At least one third of the water surface should be clear. This allows the sun to penetrate and reach any submerged plants you have added to your pond. It also allows gases to escape and oxygen to enter the water. This all goes toward achieving that mini-ecosystem balance.

Lastly, don't be in a rush to get your plants and fish into the pond. It would be best to give your water garden pond time to settle in and mellow. Add plants next and give them time to come into balance. Adding fish should best be done in late spring or early summer when the temperature of the pond reaches 50 degrees. So much depends on the type of fish you plan to add, the type of water garden pond you have, and where you are located.

Copyright 2006, Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Looking for more Water Garden articles? Discover all kinds of Flower Gardens at our site, http://flowergardenlovers.com/. Read about water, wildflower, rose, shade and butterfly gardens. Find articles about garden rooms, gardening tips, garden design, annuals, perennials, and more.

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About Water Gardens

Writen by Daniel Roshard

Once you have decided that you want to build a water garden in your garden or back yard you will need to make bigger and crucial decisions about how the whole thing is going to look, how are you going to make sure that each element you want in your water garden will be successful and help the entire water garden environment flourish.

As everyone knows there are many different water gardens, and from my experience most people already have some idea about the general look and theme they look for, but sometimes people are not educated enough to make the choices, some times home owners discover other, unknown water gardens after they that invested a lot of their energy, efforts and money into their existing water garden.

The basic idea in planning and even designing your own water garden is to have a lot of information before you even start imagining how its going to look and how much time you will spend in your new garden. Surf the internet and look for things you like, and things that you dislike. As you start seeing more and more internet sites, articles and photos start also paying attention to costs and maintenance costs and details as well. If you do your research correctly if will be very easy for you to make the right decision once the moment for that has come.

Two very different and always gorgeous basic concepts are the western water garden which can be mostly found in Europe and consists mainly of the water pond features and a matching garden on the same space, and the oriental, meaning mostly Japanese water garden which places a lot of importance of the whole look and harmony created between the space nature and men.

Although a lot of people have a very clear idea what they want and stick with their basic feelings, sometime one is fascinated by something completely different and changes his mind, the problem in that case is that if this person did not do his research he is going to need to recalculate the costs and start looking at the space differently, this is very significant in moving from a western European approach, which basically can match itself fairly easy to the average style of building, than to switch from the oriental approach to the European one.

Both of these popular water garden designing styles are beautiful and would make anyone feel great sitting in his or hers water garden to relax and reflect on things, read a book or take a nap, meditate or spend time with the family. It is clear that people have different needs and different passions, some want a fish free garden as others are mainly interested in fish, it is obvious that it is these needs that will dictate all that follows, costs and maintenance and the level of dedication to be involved in maintaining or even enlarging your water garden.

As with all other things a research will set you on your feet before you start shopping, like that you will also start a better chance of discovering different sales techniques and you will not be easy to convince going a different direction, this research will only do good things to your future water garden.

Daniel Roshard is an interior designer fascinated by outdoor architecture, he is currently studying public parks and outdoor design. Daniel is writing articles about home improvement and landscaping issues. You can read his latest work on Water Garden here.

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Lawn Mowers

Writen by Max Bellamy

A lawn mower is an indispensable garden tool required for trimming grass on lawns. In order to keep a lawn in perfect condition, clipping grass is absolutely necessary. If grass is not mowed regularly, the unchecked growth will definitely spoil the appearance of the lawn and the hard work put behind the creation of a lawn will be made worthless. A lawn mower trims grass to a uniform length. Two types of mechanisms are generally used.

The mechanism entailed in reel mowers is linked to the use of a set of spiral-cylindrical blades rotating on a horizontal axis. Slash is done by an action similar to that of a scissor. The rotating spiral blades and a solitary fixed horizontal blade complete the action. The axle is fixed to a gear that is then set up on one of the wheels. This is done to ensure that the blades spin fast for high-quality grass cutting work while the mower is making a slow movement.

In the other mechanism involving rotary mowers, the blades rotate horizontally on a vertical drive shift. Slashing takes place because the horizontal blade strikes the grass at a high speed.

Lawn mowers habitually permit the height of the lawn mower to be attuned to check the height of the slashed grass. On less sophisticated lawn mowers, this is achieved by physically shifting each wheel to a separate gap on the framework. However, the latest improvement in rotary mowers makes available a ""one-touch"" height-modify system where the wheels are set up on a structure independent from the remainder of the lawn mower, and the structure can be lifted and its height decreased.

Lawnmowers require power for performing two functions: to cut and to move. The work of pushing or pulling a reel mower supplies power for cutting and moving simultaneously.

Lawn Mowers provides detailed information on Lawn Mowers, Lawn Mower Parts, Riding Lawn Mowers, Lawn Mower Repair and more. Lawn Mowers is affiliated with Blower Fans.

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Preformed Pond Liners

Writen by Eric Morris

The popular choice for a pond when space and time are limited is a pre-formed Pond Liner. Today's pre-formed Pond Liners are quick and easy to install, and preformed liners are best suited for small ponds.

Indoor and patio ponds are usually made of pre-formed Pond Liners. Preformed ponds are great for places where you need to build up around the water garden instead of digging it into the ground. When strength is a requirement, pre-formed fiber glass liners are suitable.

Plastic preformed liners often used on large holding ponds, when economy is a concern and flexibility is not. The pre-formed liners found at many homes and gardens are less desirable. They are basically large plastic or fiberglass tubs. They seem to be easy to install, but in reality are difficult to handle and maintain.

Fiberglass pre-formed ponds are the perfect solution for a raised pond installation. These fiberglass ponds have a smooth black inner surface that looks fairly deep. The strongest of the models will support rocks and also their own weight of water above the ground without bending or cracking.

PVC pre-formed liners contain UV stabilizers that protect the liner from breaking down in the sunlight. The Pond Gard Pre-cut EPDM rubber liner is economical and easy to install. It has a fish-friendly heavy-duty black material, and is easy to work with even in cold temperatures.

The advent of pre-formed Pond Liners has lessened the problems of building concrete pools. Pond Liners of different shapes and sizes are available at a fraction of the cost of concrete liners. A gardener can now fashion a home garden pond within one day and stock it with plants and fish by next morning. The simplest form of pool is the above-the-ground pool. Since digging is not required, it takes more time to fill it with water than to build it up.

However, pre-formed Pond Liners do have their own limitations. First, the liners are not easy to transport. Second, there are limitations of shape and size, unlike flexible liners. The materials will not conform to your idea of space and size. No adjustments are possible during installation. There is a limit on choice of material. And the pond has a more natural look that blends with the landscape.

The choice of liner ultimately depends on the factors like budget, need, landscape, longevity, and personal taste.

Pond Liners provides detailed information about pond liners, garden pond liners, preformed pond liners, rubber pond liners and more. Pond Liners is the sister site of Natural Waterfalls.

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The Herbaceous Or Perennial Border An Option For You

Writen by James Kilkelly

If I say herbaceous border or perennial border to you, what comes to mind? To many people this conjures up images of gardens filled with colourful blooms all summer, only to become empty and barren of flower or leaf during autumn and winter. Many more of you will think of landlord's estate grounds, staffed by teams of subservient garden workers. These workers tend the herbaceous borders requiring constant deadheading, pruning, staking, mulching, feeding, watering and division. Now those impressions may have been the way perennial borders were thought of in the past, today however, perennial borders are somewhat different. They are actually seeing a bit of a mini revival.

Perennials, alternatives to large lawns

Homeowners who have become tired of the never-ending cycle of feeding, weeding and mowing lawns, have decided to decrease the size of these green areas. Instead, replanting them with colourful perennial or herbaceous borders. These may have been lawns that their all grown up children once ran and played on, now devoid of that activity. On the other hand, perhaps the homeowner became tired of having the same mirror image lawn as his neighbour; I can tell you there is nothing like a perennial border to change that situation.

Perennial form and growth

Planting a new perennial border can really help improve your garden. The plants overall are much faster growing and softer in form than shrubs. It is also interesting to watch these new perennials grow and develop, often shedding their skin of last season foliage only to replenish it the following spring.

James Kilkelly is a freelance horticulturalist and garden writer for four Irish regional newspapers. His forum, http://www.gardenplansireland.com/forum/ offers you free access to an incredible wealth of horticultural information specific to Ireland. He also regularly posts his expert advice to a gardening community at http://www.gardenstew.com/

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Benefit From The Expertise Of A Landscaping Contractor

Writen by Max Sheppard

Busy homeowners who care about the external appearance of their home as much as they do the interior can turn to a landscaping contractor for design ideas and to handle outdoor projects.

A licensed landscape contractor has been specially trained to meet all landscaping needs – whether for service purposes or cosmetic. Everything from driveways, patios, and decks; to grading the yard, and complete landscape design. Garden ponds enhanced by a pond bridge, wooden "playscapes" for children, walkthrough gardens, and placement and selection of trees, shrubs, and other flora to balance the yard and enhance visual appeal.

The Benefits Offered by a Landscaping Contractor

Like other qualified professionals, different landscape contractors will have specific areas of experience and expertise. For instance, hire an experienced landscape lighting contractor to install outdoor lighting features. They are knowledgeable about different types of landscape lighting, and when and how to use each for maximum benefit.

Few homeowners are savvy as to the best way to enhance landscape features using contour lighting, uplighting, grazing, moonlighting, or backlighting techniques. A licensed landscape contractor, however, knows how to exploit the benefits of these type lighting features.

Landscaping Tips

If spare time is a problem, hire a landscaping contractor with experience designing easy-care landscapes, greatly reducing upkeep efforts. Mower-friendly lawns devoid of grass peninsulas and islands that slow down mowing, and require lots of turning and maneuvering. Opt for a low water landscape design using drought-tolerant plants and ground cover to conserve water and decrease maintenance needs.

Small yards can be made to look larger using the expertise of a landscape contractor designer familiar with the "forcing the perspective" technique. Angling plants toward each other, extending to the rear of the landscape. Making the yard look longer and more spacious, while adding visual interest and enhanced beauty.

The Right Landscaping Contractor for the Right Job

A qualified contractor with a landscaping contractor license can increase the external beauty of a home, correct landscape problems, and bring balance to the yard – increasing real estate market value of the home. Select the right contractor for the right job.

Some are more experienced with correcting landscape flaws and the use of flora enhancements to beautify and balance to the yard. The expertise of another landscaping contractor might be concrete driveways, walkways, and custom edging the landscape perimeter.

A construction contractor landscaping expert might be best for building a raised deck, split-level patio, or a number of other functional outdoor projects.

Word of mount referrals, local licensing authorities, and Internet resources such as www.handycanadian.com are your best resources for finding a qualified landscaping contractor in your area.

Carefully selecting a qualified landscaping contractor ensures outdoor feature success, adding to the appearance and value of your home.

Max Sheppard is Co-Owner of HandyCanadian.com: where homeowners locate professional landscaping contractors, and qualifying contractors acquire new leads.

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A Garden Without Digging A Joke Right

Writen by Kevin Cundick

When I first heard of the "No Dig" gardening method, I must admit I was quite skeptical. I couldn't understand how you could possibly have a successful garden without tilling, digging, hoeing, then planting. All of which is quite a bit of work. I certainly don't mind hard work, because often times things feel much more rewarding if you have to work hard to accomplish your goal. Keeping this mind however, I found that my schedule, between work, coaching baseball, football, etc. with my boys that I just didn't have a lot of time to devote to a garden.

So, I thought what the heck, lets give it a shot and see how it works out. I soon learned that just because you don't have to dig, doesn't mean you don't have to work. But the time involved is considerably less. You still get your home grown vegetables easier and quicker this way.

First, locate the spot you would like to have you garden. If grass is located it where you would you like your garden to be, at the very least, mow it down before you begin. Then get a bunch of newspapers and lay them down covering the entire area you want your garden to cover. If this seems strange, I thought so at first as well. However, the newspaper does biodegrade over time providing some additional nutrients to your plants. Plus, it helps to keeps the weeds down.

Second, lay organic materials on top of the newspaper. This can be compost that you buy at the store, or homegrown compost or whatever you decide. I used grass clippings, leaves, normal dirt and some manure. I cover the newspaper to about 12 inches knowing that as the leaves and grass clippings etc. composted, the depth would decrease. I was hoping to have it be about six inches when all was said and done. I wasn't far off. You decide how much organic material would work best for you. This method did work for me.

Third, plant your vegetables. Continue regular watering maintenance and weeding (though much less than usual) and watch as your garden comes to life.

Is the "No Dig" garden the perfect garden? I would say no. But what is perfect? Everything has its pros and cons. For instance, some of the cons of the "No Dig" garden are:

• Requires more planning up front.

• The soil can be very "loose" and tall plant may fall over or require additional support to keep them from falling over.

• Predators such as mice and birds can disturb your garden and go after seeds etc.

• If planted early in the Spring, it can be more susceptible to frost.

Despite all of this however, the "No Dig" garden can be perfect for you if you are unable to dig due to time constraints or just you're just physically unable to dig a garden.

If you're unsure about the "No Dig" garden method, try planting part of your garden this way then do the rest using a different method. See how each turns out.

Kevin Cundick is been working in a home grown garden since he was very young. He publishes the experiences he's had with his own gardens. He also runs the Best Guide to Gardening website where you can discover the most amazing information for gardening.

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The Dangers Of Chlorine Free Pool Chemicals

Writen by Brian Barker

Several chemicals should be added to a swimming pool on a regular basis to keep the water safe and clean. Many swimming pool owners become unhappy with the common chlorine based chemical routine, and look to alternative sanitizers (such as Baquacil or SoftSwim) called "biguanide" based pool chemicals. Unfortunately these alternatives prove to be more expensive initially to purchase the chemicals, and cause problems over time which temporarily close the pool down.

If used in large quantities, or if not maintained properly, chlorine may irritate the eyes and skin of swimmers. Biguanide based swimming pool chemicals are much softer and have almost no affect on swimmers, but these chemicals are not capable of controlling organic contamination. Examples of organic contamination might be wastes left behind by swimmers or material that has blown or fallen into an outdoor pool, which promotes the growth of algae. While a chlorine swimming pool instantly neutralizes harmful organics, a biguanide swimming pool requires the addition of concentrated hydrogen peroxide on a regular basis. This liquid hydrogen peroxide solution proves to be more dangerous than chlorine to both store and handle.

Because biguanide based sanitizers cannot control organic contamination, microorganisms present in the pool water will build a resistance to the biguanide chemical over time. Like an evolving virus, these organisms become used to the biguanide sanitizer and form a type of water mold or slime. This ugly slime can only be eliminated with a strong dose of chlorine-based pool shock. The chlorine pool shock quickly removes the water mold, but also destroys all of the biguanide in the water. The immediate result of the chlorine and biguanide chemical interaction is very cloudy water which turns several unnatural colors, making the swimming pool unsafe to use for several days or weeks. Rather than risk further organic contamination and lost swimming time, most pool owners return to a chlorine pool chemical routine.

Chlorine is the right pool sanitizing chemical in every situation, except when a swimmer has developed allergies to the chemical. Pool chlorine is relatively inexpensive and easy to use, when used properly. With a basic understanding of pool water chemistry, and an easy weekly pool maintenance routine, any home owner can maintain a backyard pool with very few problems.

Please visit InTheSwim.com for a complete selection of quality pool chemicals and swimming pool supplies.

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Extend Your Gardening Into Fall And Winter

Writen by Joyce Moore

It's hard to imagine but mid to late summertime is the time to start your cool weather fall crops in your garden. But on the other hand, you will have more success than when you tried starting seeds in the spring! No way, you say. Yes indeed. Not only is the soil now warm and toasty, but the insects that ravaged your broccoli and lettuce have either morphed into something and flown away or have moved on.

You can now direct sow into soil so save time and expense by not having to start indoors with the costs of potting soil, trays, pots etc. and same time by not having to transplant in four to six weeks. Of course I am not talking about melons, corn, squashes, or outdoor tomatoes here. I am talking about root crops and cool weather crops like broccoli, lettuce, spinach, etc.

As in the spring, prepare your seeding beds before sowing. If you are following a summer crop that is done, be sure to add lots of organic matter to the soil as you work it, to put back nutrients for your new crop.

Sow the seeds as per directions on the packet and water in. It is important to keep the seedling bed moist until the the plants have germinated and are well established. I believe that a row cover such as Remay is a good idea. Keeps the soil and plants a little cooler during the day as well as keeps the insects out. May remove the row cover for pollination purposes or to add mulch around your established plants. Speaking of mulch, this is a great way to keep the plant roots cool and retain moisture for the growing plants. Some gardeners provide some shade from the sun by propping up some boards or even a canopy cover to keep the hot summer sun from directly hitting the soil and "cooking" it. Remember, seeds don't need direct sunshine until after they germinate. The warned soil and moisture will do the job.

So when do you sow your seeds for fall crops? Easy! Take the maturity date from the seed packet and backtrack the required number of days. For example, leaf lettuce takes 45-60 days on average, so if your first frost date is Oct 31, then count back 60 days. Now you know you should be planting lettuce mid to late August. Successive plantings is the key here. Keep planting a new row each week up until Labor Day! Because lettuce can take a light frost if protected, you will probably get another week or two into November!

Here is a list of appropriate vegetable crops for fall harvesting:

Plant long-term, frost-tolerant vegetables together.

Frost- tolerant vegetables include beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, garlic, kale, lettuce, mustard, onions, parsley, spinach and turnips.

Keep in mind the relative maturity rate, average height (in feet) and frost sensitivity of the crop of various garden vegetables with FS meaning frost-susceptible crops which will be killed or injured by temperatures below 32 degrees F. and FT meaning frost-tolerant crops which can withstand temperatures below 32 degrees F.

The quick (30-60 days) maturing vegetables are: beets (1 1/2 feet) FT; bush beans (1 1/2 feet) FS; leaf lettuce (1 foot) FT; mustard (1 1/2 feet) FT; radishes (1 1/2 feet) FT; spinach (1 foot) FT; summer squash (3 feet) FS; turnips (1 1/2 feet) FT; and turnip greens (1 1/2 feet) FT.

The moderate (60-80 days) maturing vegetables are: broccoli (3 feet) FT; Chinese cabbage (1 1/2 feet) FT; carrots (1 foot) FT; cucumbers (1 foot) FS; corn (6 feet) FS; green onions (1 1/2 feet) FT; kohlrabi (1 1/2 feet) FT; lima bush beans (1 1/2 feet) FS; okra (6 feet) FS; parsley (1 1/2 feet) FT; peppers (3 feet) FS; and cherry tomatoes (4 feet) FS.

The slow (80 days or more) maturing vegetables are: Brussels sprouts (2 feet) FT; bulb onions (1 1/2 feet) FT; cabbage (1 1/2 feet) FT; cantaloupes (1 foot) FS; cauliflower (3 feet) FT; eggplant (3 feet) FS; garlic (1 foot) FT; Irish potatoes (2 feet) FS; pumpkins (2 feet) FS; sweet potatoes (2 feet) FS; tomatoes (4 feet) FS; watermelon (1 foot) FS; and winter squash (1 foot) FS.

OK, now you have your plants established and growing well. You need some protection from fall's early frosty nights. Some people are able to keep a "greens" garden growing through mid winter depending on how they protect the plants, available sunshine and soil temperature. Here in the Pacific Northwest, it is not unusual for those who live in the mild maritime costal weather patterns, to be able to garden nearly year round!

When the weather man predicts a frosty evening then the quickest and easiest way to protect a plant overnight is a light cover, such as plastic sheeting, a bed sheet, newspaper, bubble wrap, or what is handy.

Please remove the cover in the morning so the plants get sunshine and air circulation.

Another inexpensive way to protect small plants is of course, the milk jug with the bottom cut off. Be sure to push the bottom edges into the dirt a little to prevent cold air from creeping in underneath.

Another freebie idea, using discarded window panes as a mini solar greenhouse! I would throw a sheet of plastic or bed sheet over the whole thing at night so as to keep cold drafts from stealing in and ruining your crop. Again, remove your overnight cover during the day to allow circulation. A good idea is to place a small thermometer inside where you can see it so you know what the daytime temperature is. That way, if the temp is getting too warm, you can remove your window pane structure so your plants don't get cooked!

Another inexpensive but very worthy item to have for winter gardening is a cold frame!

Since you can't work on your plant bed from one side where the window or cover is, I would plan mine to be three feet wide and six feet long. These work great on a raised bed too! For insulation, consider a layer of styrofoam around the inside walls.

Building material can be most any wood planks with cedar and redwood being the least likely to have to be replaced in time.

This last garden cover is a little more involved but I found quite interesting. The full plans can be found in "Gardening Under Cover" from Sasquatch Books, Seattle, Wa. Basically it is framed with PVC pipe and then covered with plastic. I would use the greenhouse type of plastic that is resistant to UV rays as the cheap plastic found in your local hardware store gets brittle and cracks into a zillion peices within one year of use but can be used "on the cheap" for one growing season. The PVC frame is attached to a wooden frame by drilled screws, then the plastic is put on and at each corner, the excess plastic is pulled out to a point and folded back on the frame like a hospital sheet corner. The plastic is then stapled onto the frame and cover with duct tape for stability. The entire bottom is stapled one more time and you are done! Lightweight, portable and inexpensive. Great way to cover a larger bed. Can be easily lifted by hand for watering or weeding. We use this idea for individual "mini greenhouse" for our baby giant pumpkin plants in the spring.

Place some wooden stakes (three or more on each side) around the frame to keep it from being blown off by winds.

Well, there it is. I hope you enjoyed this article and got a few ideas.

Joyce Moore is an avid gardener and owner/operator of http://www.virtualseeds.com Stop by her site to view more gardening tutorials.

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Tips For Planting An Outdoor Herb Garden

Writen by Steve Miers

With the planting season upon us, now is the perfect time to start your outdoor herb garden. Herbs come in different colors, flora, scents, textures and heights making them pleasing to all five of our senses. Before starting your outdoor herb garden, there are some things that you need to consider and keep in mind.

First of all, you have to consider how much space you have to plant. If you have just a small 3 ft x 3 ft plot, then you are going to have to narrow your herb choices considerably in comparison to someone who has a much larger plot. If you have a small plot or just want to add visual interest to a larger plot, consider planting some herbs in the ground and others in pots.

With hundreds of varieties of herbs available, it is best to think about how you want to use your herb garden. If your garden is more for show and to be pleasing to your sense of smell, then you can choose plants just by their scents. Some people like to combine different scents such as rosemary, basil and thyme whereas others choose to have a garden full of lavender. If you are going to use your plants for cooking, then you need to think about which plants would be most useful for you. For instance, Italian herb gardens typically contain basil, oregano and parsley.

Depending on the plant, you may be able to plant a lot of one herb close together or you might need to leave 6" to 12" between plants. The size of your plot greatly dictates how many plants you can have in your plot. There are some herbs that spread like crazy as they grow. Mint is an example of an herb with a mind of its own when it comes to growing. It is best to plant these kinds of herbs in their own pot to avoid having them take over your garden.

Make sure that your herb garden gets plenty of sun. Most herbs require sun for at least 6 hours a day. Your herbs will do best in soil that drains well as many herbs do best if they are not sitting in soaked soil all the time. In between days that it rains, it is best to just to sprinkle them lightly with the hose. If you go 4-5 days with no rain then it is a good idea to give them a good watering.

Many herbs are easy to grow and require little care other than weeding and a little water. Before starting your herb garden it is always best to do research to learn about different herbs and to make sure that their soil, watering and sun requirements will be met. You can find other good herb growing tips online. Although you can start herbs from seeds, it is much easier and less time consuming to go to a nursery and buy an herb plant. Whichever way you choose to start your herb garden, have fun and let your senses enjoy all of the colors, smells, textures and scents that come with them.

I enjoy writing and creating websites. For more of my websites please visit my tenent credit check, bio hazard wastedisposal, workabroad websites.

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Choosing Easycare Shrubs

Writen by Ted Roberson

Shrubs tend to be the centerpiece of most people's front yard gardening. I think that's because shrubs are easy, but they're also expected. Homes without a row of shrubs lining the front look kind of naked and unloved.

But it can be difficult choosing the right shrubs for your yard. There are so many possibilities and so many conditions in front yards that no one shrub is going to be perfect for every situation. I think what most people are looking for in their shrubs, though, is something that is easy to care for.

Shrubs are something you don't want to have to think about, you just want to plant them and have them survive with a minimum of watering and pruning. And if you're looking for easy-care shrubs, evergreen shrubs simply can't be beat.

Evergreen shrubs are the perfect combination of easy good looks and minimum care. They look good year round, which is perfect for something that's in your front yard where everyone can see it all the time.

When I moved into my current home, the front yard was filled with a bunch of evergreen boxwood shrubs. These little evergreens are super-easy to grow and will look good with almost no care. If you take the time to water them occasionally, they will reward you with more growth.

Though they're called "evergreens," boxwood shrubs grown in the sun will actually turn orange in the winter. I think they're prettier than the plain old green ones, and we actually kept our boxwood that were in the sun and got rid of the ones in the shade (they turn green again when it warms in the spring).

We replaced the boxwood shrubs we got rid of with evergreen azaleas. Azaleas are one of the stars of the shady garden, producing beautiful and bright flowers in the spring. The rest of the time they look nice, too, with small, waxy, dark green leaves. The azaleas are a little more work than the boxwood was; we water them through the summer and apply acid once or twice a year. Still, not much effort for solidly beautiful shrubs.

Another good choice for shade is hydrangeas, which have big puffballs of flowers in the late spring or early summer (some also bloom in fall). Hydrangeas are fun because the plants that bloom pink or blue can actually bloom different colors depending on the condition of the soil. A low pH (acid soil) makes blue blooms, while a very alkaline soil makes hydrangeas bloom pink. Even if you buy a plant that is supposed to bloom the other color, the pH of your soil may give the plant other ideas. (Like azaleas, not all hydrangeas are evergreen, so be sure to check the label.)

Holly shrubs are another good choice, and they make a nice hedgerow if you have an expanse of house that you want to cover up. They'll need pruning to stay looking nice and to keep their shape, but they are worth it because they make these beautiful, large, lush shrubs that have berries in the winter, which bring color to the yard and attract birds.

Leaving the world of evergreens, for an informal sunny garden, butterfly bush is a great choice. These shrubs have huge cones of colorful flowers that bloom in high summer and are very attractive to butterflies (and bees, so be careful planting these if someone in your household is allergic to bee stings). Some varieties of butterfly bush are huge, growing up to six feet tall and five or six feet wide. If you don't have room for that kind of commitment, smaller hybrids are now available.

Those shopping for shrubs in the Deep South for sunny spots should also consider crape myrtle. These large bushes or small trees make great quick-growing hedges. New cultivars bloom twice a year or have extra-long blooming periods. This is another great shrub for attracting butterflies and other fun insects.

Easy-care shrubs make a great foundation for your flower garden, whether in the front yard or back yard. When these reliable performers are in place you can focus your attention on the fun stuff: planting and caring for your flowers and other plants.

Ted Roberson owner of landscape living is a landscape and garden enthusiast who has years of experience working and creating outdoor living areas. Discover how you can improve and maintain your landscape and garden area with simple projects you can do around your home and garden that will give you a beautiful restful area to enjoy. http://www.landscapeliving.com/

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How To Casting Decorative Concrete

Writen by Delmar Germyn

Here is a short file on making a horse plaque to hang on your barn. Maybe make two and hang them on each side of the door. If these are going to be outdoors use concrete.

You could cast these in plaster if they will not be outdoors.

To get started you should organize your materials. I always get my cement and sand measured out before I start. First fill your mold with water, then pour the water into a measure of some kind. An empty margarine container is Ok for this. This will give you a rough idea how much concrete to mix.

I would use a 3 sand to 1 cement for this, as it brings out detail nicely.

set your mold up in your sandbox. After you have it settled in nicely carefully take it out and coat the inside with whatever you use for a release agent. When you have coated it put it back in the sandbox.

Now mix your concrete adding water to get a "pancake mix" that will pour out of the container. When you are happy with your mix, pour it into the mold. I fill about 'half way and wait 5 minutes or so. This lets any air out. Then I fill to the top.

Let it sit about 15 minutes and then put in your hanger. I put a stick under the hanger so it will not sink. You can take it out when the concrete is cured. Once the hanger is in I cover with a cloth and put a piece of plastic over that.

Now comes the hard part! Waiting! Wait at least 24 -36 hours. If it is cold then 48 would not be to long. You cannot rush this part. I have tried! I have a terrible time with this part. I always want to see how it looks. Do not be like me. You will have a huge pile of useless, broken concrete if you look to soon. Believe me, I know!

After you wait, de mold your casting and keep damp for another week. After that you can let it dry and paint it if you want. If you have a big enough container, fill it with water and put the casting in. This is easier than spraying water on it every day. You could also put it in a plastic bag, that will keep it from drying out. Be sure to store in a cool place, not out in the sun where it will get hot.

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All Rights Reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND....

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

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You Say Tomato I Say Mosquito

Writen by Jim Burnell

Gathering tomatoes or other fruits of the garden might not sound like a dangerous occupation, but with terrorism running rampant these days, even a walk thru the garden can require pre-emptive measures. In fact if you left the screen door open for a minute or so and heard a whiny frequency accompanied by a slight tickle it may already be too late, if that slight tickle was the allergic reaction of your skin cells to the Culex, Aedes or Anopheles mosquito, one of the several species that prefer humans, and are capable of transmitting microbial organisms to living cells.

Every year two million people die of malaria, which is transmitted by the Anopheles mosquito, but most of those deaths occur in Africa. In the U.S. malaria is considered rare, but the West Nile Virus is on the move.

The West Nile Virus is two millionths of an inch wide, smaller than most viruses. Viruses occupy a special taxonomy position in that they are not plant, animal or prokaryotic bacteria, and should not even be considered organisms because they are not free-living. (They cannot reproduce with out a host cell.)

The West Nile Virus has been studied for decades but did not arrive in the US until 1999. It is most similarly assocciated with other viruses that cause encephalitis, (inflammation of the brain), and it is highly fatal to avian species, corvids, mostly non-migratory birds distinguished by same sex characteristics. The West Nile Virus is also fatal to horses although there is a two-dose vaccine available for horses. It is not known when a vaccine will be discovered for humans or birds, so the best method of dealing with the virus is through avoidance. The West Nile Virus is past on to its animal host through the saliva of the female mosquito at the time of injection. The female mosquito needs a blood meal to complete reproduction, and pass on proteins to her offspring. The male mosquito does not eat blood but lives only on nectar and fruit juices.

Avoiding mosquitoes can be a big problem if you're an outdoors person unless your companion is more susceptible to mosquito bites than you are. Some people attract more mosquitoes than others. (They must have a better bloodline.) Mosquitoes can lay their eggs in as little as one tablespoon of water which hatch and become adults in as little as seven to ten days. Finding all the water sources in which they can breed is next to impossible, but eliminating the obvious places will help. (Rain gutters, bird baths, flower pots etc.) In order to avoid mosquitoes it helps to know how they find you. They use sensors on their antenna to pick up body heat, odor and carbon-dioxide from exhaled breath to find their meal. That's why black-light traps do not really work well, (mosquitoes use thermal imaging, not ultra violet). The female mosquito will work her way upwind zigzagging back and forth to the sources of these bodily cues. As she gets closer she uses colors and moisture in the air to close in on her target. British researchers found that mosquitoes would respond to animal bodies up to forty-five feet away. Mosquitoes become inactive when temperatures drop below forty-five degrees F or above eighty-two degrees F or when wind speeds are higher than six meters per second.

Some repellents are very effective at binding the mosquito sensory antenna. Repellants composed of heavy irregular shaped molecules work best. They block the pores of the sensory hairs of the mosquito antenna forcefully changing the mosquitoes point of view, causing her to fly past a living target. Area repellants like candles and incense with citronella have been proven effective at averting mosquitoes and even a plain wax candle can work as a decoy to trick mosquitoes. One of the best and most familiar repellents is a chemical product called Deet, which was developed by the USDA and patented by the US Army in 1946 and then registered in 57 for use by the general public. It is a broad spectrum repellent targeting many different insect pests, however one thing that might not be so well known is that Deet should not be used in conjunction with any other insecticide containing Permethrin as it can cause severe cellular damage according to Duke Universities Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health.

One of the most interesting, and recent repellants I have discovered while researching this article is the use of a common perennial herb or weed called catnip. Researchers at Iowa State University and the US Forest Service released information in 2001 on the effectiveness of nepetalactone, an essential oil found in catnip that works 10 times more efficiently than Deet although they say nothing about its duration comparison. Iowa State had submitted a patent application for the use of catnip compounds for insect repellents and commercial products are already available to the general public, (although I do not know if that means that thorough testing on humans or animals were completed). Caveat Emptor. Obviously cats will be meowing all over the neighborhood once these products become popular. (Skeeter-free, Natures Herbal, Natural Herbal Shield are a few). Some companies may be cheating the law by not calling there products a "Repellant", so as to bypass FDA regulations.

You may want to try mixing your own concoction of catnip repellant. It's available at nurseries and in the wild if you know what it looks like. Catnip was introduced to the US from Europe in the late 18th Century, and has been used for seasoning and teas for years. It is thought to have many healing properties among them help for (inducing sleep, migraine headaches, fevers, sedative, fatigue, restlessness, pain killers, improving circulation and symptoms associated with the flu.) It is also high in vitamin C. Catnip was also called the "Hang-mans Root" and was used by early American colonial executioners to put them in the mood before an execution. In England it was used to flavor beer because it cost less than hops. Over the years their have been many other plant-derived repellants to combat insects such as lavender extract, cedar wood, neem oil, Rosemary, peppermint geranium, lemongrass and others.

As far as electronic devises sold to repel insects, be sure the experts who tested these devices were not on the companies payroll, or be careful of which expert you listen to. Some of these products do more damage than good. In May 2001 the FTC sent warning letters to 60 companies selling these devises, warning them not to make claims without scientific evidence. In August 2002, Lentek International was charged by the FTC, for making false claims that their electronic mosquito repelling devices, repel mosquitoes. (WWW .ft c.gov/opa/2002/08/lentek.htm)

One proven method that partially worked for my dad when I was growing up, was the nightly mosquito hunt. Each night before bedtime the five of us kids were assigned a rolled up newspaper and a room, and we could not go to bed until every mosquito in the house was extinguished. It worked 90% of the time and gave the walls and ceilings that natured texture look. The funny thing bout it was the other 10% of the time the mosquitoes only got dad.

Mosquitoes play an important role in the food chain, mostly in their larvae and pupae stages, transforming algae, bacteria and organic matter into meals for fish and other aquatic creatures and wading birds etc. and it would not be beneficial to eliminate all of them.

Last year out of 830 reported human infections, 27 were fatal. In November 2003 a bio Technology Company called Acambis started the first human clinical trial of a West Nile Virus vaccine. So far it has performed well in hamster, mice, monkeys and horses. Most cases of the disease occurs in the elderly and others with impaired immune systems, there have been cases of transmission through blood transfusions, and organ transplants. In most cases those who have West Nile Virus do not even know they have it. A few will develop flu like symptoms 4 to 10 days after the infection, and a rare few will develop encephalitis.

Copyright Jim Burnell 2005

Sources:
University of Ca. Publication 7451
Author: Bruce Eldridge, Dept. of Entomology, and UC Davis

Catnip as a Mosquito Repellent
Author: Jeffrey s. Hoard
National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy

Dept of Health and Human Services
Center for Disease Control and Prevention

Grow your own mosquito repellant
Author: Ann Lovejoy

Integrated Pest Management of Alaska

Iowa State University Extension Fact Sheet Mosquito

Iowa State University
Joel Coats, Entomology
Brian Meyer, Agriculture Communications

Jim Burnell is a carpenter/cabinet maker and small business owner with a lifetime of varied hobbies from boat building to studying Zeno's paradox. Currently he is studying the effects of catnip on mosquitoes and other insects, the testing and raising of certain beneficial insects in the garden and in captivity, and simplifying certain gardening procedures in transplanting and cloning. For links to his other articles, journals and ideas he can be reached at his website: http://www.spreadtheworld.blogspot.com

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How Choose The Right Type Of Lawn Mower

Writen by Alan Ross

Do you like to have a beautiful lawn in your yard? Clean, green and well mowed lawn is not just everybody's dream but also is pretty much pleasing. You can engage a lawn mowing service for a fee but how about doing it yourself over the weekend? You need to know what type of lawn mower suffices your need and how much you should spend on it etc before you bought one for your home.

Choosing the Right Type of Lawn Mower

Before you chose a lawn mower, decide whether you want to buy electric or gasoline driven mower. Each type has its own ups and downs. In general you may follow the points as given below.

1. Base your decision on the area to mow. Larger the area bigger is the mower you may want to purchase. You can consider even the non powered mower for small lawns.
2. If your lawn is small and the farthest edge is about 30 to 35 feet away from your nearest power socket you can very well go for an electric lawn mower.
3. If it is for large gardens or golf courses go for ride-on models powered by diesel or gas engines with controls on both the hands. Even a garden tractor suffices for you. Engine power varies from 8.5 HP to 13 HP and the price from $1750 to $5000.
4. Price is an important factor to look at. A basic walk-behind model costs about $400 and for a little more you get a better engine with ball bearing and utility handle bars. Higher prices like $700 to $900 get you self starting, self propelled models with additional features.
5. For sloped small lawns a Hover model suits best. They are light and easy, you need to carry them to lawn and start. They come in both diesel and electric versions.

How Do You Want To Mow Your Lawn

Summer: Raise the mower to 3 inches or more to cut grass long. Mowing once in a fortnight may be enough depending on watering and soil condition.
Spring: Sharpen and service the mower before getting started. Only top-dressing must give the lawn a beautiful look.
Winter: Drain gas from the lawn mower and store it covered in your garage.

Automatic Lawn Mowers

The benefits of robot mowers are numerous. You don't have to push or ride a mower to get your lawn mowed, you don't have to deal with clippings, you free up some of your precious weekend time, and the mulch it creates is a healthy alternative to your lawn over fertilizer. Robomowers are also good for the environment – they take no gas or oil and create no emissions.

Alan Ross is a regular article contributor on many topics. Be sure to visit his other websites LawnMower Resources, Buy Lawn Mower, and Fix A Lawn Mower

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Should You Hire A Landscape Designer

Writen by Harriet Hodgson

Gardening isn't one of my talents. I'm Mrs. Blackthumb and every plant I touch dies immediately or goes into shock and dies slowly. So when we moved into our present home, which was devoid of landscaping, I hired a landscape designer. The designer asked some important questions.

His first question was "How do you want the garden to look?" I had never thought about this. "I want the garden to look like a children's book illustration," I answered. "I want an old-fashioned garden filled with flowers."

"What colors do you like?" the designer asked. "Well, the house is pale gray," I said, "I would like flowers that go with with that color." We walked around the small yard as we talked. Our conversation and site visit were all the designer needed. He drew up a plan, I approved it, and several weeks later two trucks pulled up in front of the house.

A mother and her children interrupted their walk to watch the landscaping "show." Planting the shrubs and flowers took an entire day. The flower beds were outlined, the plants were positioned, and then set into the ground. By sunset, the yard was totally transformed. There is always something blooming in the garden.

We have hydrangea, hosta, some type of geranium (I don't remember the name) and succulents. The Dianthus along the front steps are the first plants to come up in the spring. Wispy gray-green stems appear first and they blossom into a riot of pink. I love the Nearly Wild roses (that is their name) by the bottom step. These hardy roses are charming and really look nearly wild.

Darker pink chrysanthemums bloom in the fall and the flame bushes by the front door provide a final touch of color before winter comes. The garden was planted 12 years ago and we have not changed anything. Oh, there was a scruffy pine tree in the back yard when we arrived and it developed some sort of blight. We replaced this tree with a flowering apple called Spring Snow.

Should you hire a landscape designer? Yes! First, the designer had the vision to turn my hazy description of a garden into reality. Second, he knew which plants were deer resistant (herds gallop through the back yard) and which plants could survive a Minnesota winter. Third, most nurseries guarantee their plants for two years and we have taken advantage of this guarantee.

When people ask where I live and I give them directions they say, "Oh, you're the house with all the flowers." And more flowers have been added. The designer left space for bedding plants and each year I plant something different: purple petunias, yellow and purple pansies, striped violas, or red geraniums. Cars slow down - even stop - to look at the flowers.

I may be Mrs. Blackthumb, but I love my garden. In the long run, hiring a landscape designer saved me money. He planned the garden to fit the house, chose plants for my geographic zone, and gave me a garden that changed with the seasons. A landscape designer can do the same for you.

Copyright 2006 by Harriet Hodgson

http://www.harriethodgson.com

Harriet Hodgson has been a nonfiction writer for 27 years and is a member of the Association of Health Care Journalists. Her 24th book, "Smiling Through Your Tears: Anticipating Grief," written with Lois Krahn, MD is available from http://www.amazon.com A five-star review of the book is posted on Amazon. You'll find another review on the American Hospice Foundtion website under the "School Corner" heading.

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Tick Removal

Writen by Josh Riverside

Ticks can cause serious harm to humans and animals and, therefore, must be removed immediately if found attached to a host. People living within or visiting tick-prone areas need to purchase a handy tick removal tool and other relevant supplies to minimize the chances of tick-borne disease.

Ticks attach themselves to people and pets from grass and shrubs. Therefore, individuals should thoroughly examine themselves, children, and pets after they have been to woody or grassy areas.

Some popular methods of tick removal, such as using a hot match or nail or covering the tick with nail polish, alcohol, or petroleum jelly are not recommended because they increase the possibility of the tick passing on infection to the host.

Ticks should never be touched with bare hands. It is best to wear rubber gloves during tick removal; however, in the absence of gloves, hands can be covered with plastic. Tweezers, blunt forceps, curved-tip forceps, hemostats, tick spoons, tick nooses, tick pliers, or tick sliders can be effectively used for tick removal.

The tick should be slowly removed by grasping its mouth or head. Jerking, crushing, or squeezing of the tick should be avoided. In addition, before using a commercial tick removal tool it is essential to read the instructions carefully. After removal, the attachment site, hands, and tick removal tool must be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water. An antiseptic should then be applied.

The tick must be preserved in a sealed container or bag for a month. Details, such as bite location, date, and patient's name are to be noted for future reference. If any symptoms of tick-borne disease appear, a medical practitioner should be contacted immediately. Medical help also becomes necessary if the mouthparts of the tick remain embedded in the skin of the host during removal.

To conclude, tick removal is no longer a difficult task due to the variety of tools available. Patience and caution are the only other requirements for efficient tick removal.

Ticks provides detailed information on Ticks, Tick Bites, Deer Ticks, Dog Ticks and more. Ticks is affiliated with Mosquito Magnets.

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Easy Hypertufa Planters

Writen by Delmar Germyn

To get an excellent book on this go here - http://www.rlstore.com/ I will give a short lesson here but recommend you get the book. It is money well spent.

Lets get going!

You will need a couple of heavy-duty cardboard boxes. One should fit inside the other with at least 3" between them.

Line the big box with plastic. Don't worry if it is not smooth, just do the best you can.

Mix up your 'Tufa and fill the bottom of the box to about 3" deep. Now wrap your other box in plastic and set it inside the first box. Fill the space around it with more Tufa. If the little box wants to collapse as you press the Tufa into the gaps you should fill it with sand or cut pieces of Styrofoam to fit into it. If you have enough Tufa left over you could fill 4 foam cups to use for legs.

Cover and let it sit a couple of days.

If you see the outer box getting wet, don't worry about it! After a couple of days take the inner box out. Let it sit another day and take off the outer box. If it is wet just tear it off. If it is dry, carefully cut it off. Now you can smooth all the corners and edges. Use a piece of steel or a wire brush. If you do not like the pattern the plastic left on the outside, wire brush there to.

You may want to put drain holes in. do it while it is still "green", just use an electric drill and a 1/2" drill bit. I don't bother, the Tufa soaks up water and even if filled to the top it seems to disappear in a 1/2 day or so. If you live where it is really rainy I guess you should put them in. It is nice not having them. I fill the planter to the top with water and do not have to water again for 2 or 3 days.

Another thing you should do before you put in your plants is plug the drain holes if you decide to make them and fill with water. Do this daily for a week. You want to leach out some of the acidity from the cement. Once this is done it is ready for use.

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All Rights Reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND....

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

The site will be constantly added to as time passes, so please click for updates.

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Herb Planters 10 Tips For Maximum Results

Writen by Laura Burnett

Herb planters, full of aromatic and edible herbs, demonstrate how container gardens can be both decorative and functional. Offering a pleasing variety of blossoms, greenery, and delightful scents, herbs are grown for their beauty, their culinary use, their health benefits, for protection from insects, for perfuming rooms, closets, and drawers, and for their use in countless crafts. Herbs lend themselves to container gardening because even if you have a garden with lots of growing space, many herbs are so invasive that you need to restrict their growth so that they don't take over your yard. Once you have tried your hand at growing herbs – indoors, outdoors, or both – you will be hooked and never able to give it up.

What Are the Best Herb Planters?
You should have at least two garden planters for your herbs – one for moisture-loving plants and one for those that prefer drier conditions. You may also want separate pots for your most invasive perennials, like mint, which doesn't like sharing space with any other plant and will choke out the less aggressive herbs.
1. Plastic planters and ceramic planters as well as metal and fiberglass planters are great for herbs that love moist conditions because these containers retain water so well (e.g., mint, parsley, chives, and basil).
2. Terracotta planters and wood planters are fine for drought-loving herbs (e.g., oregano, sage, rosemary, thyme, and lavender).
3. Because it is less easy to keep hanging baskets moist, they are good for herbs that like to stay dry, and patio planters and window boxes are better for herbs that love their water.
4. You can water the layers of stackable planters differently, which means these great space savers can be used for both types of plants, but don't try mixing the two types in the same layer. You'll have half the plants rotting and the other half wilting.

Suggestions
1. If you are going to grow herbs in a very convenient location, like indoors on your windowsill, or outside in raised planters or pots beside the kitchen door, you probably won't forget to water your herb planters regularly; otherwise, an automated watering system might be useful. On the other hand, don't kill with kindness. Over watering will destroy even moisture-loving herbs.
2. Good quality soil is important, and you should provide organic ingredients of compost, decomposed manure, charcoal, and ground oyster shells. For your drought-loving plants, mix in a little sand (1/4 of the volume); for your moisture lovers, add extra compost or peat moss.
3. Herbs, in general, like lots of sun, and should be placed where they can enjoy it all day, but check to be sure. Chervil and Corsican mint prefer shade.
4. If your herbs become too big for the container, divide them, and replant the excess clumps in other containers. Herb gardens make great gifts.
5. If you are drying some of your herbs, collect them on a dry day at the end of the summer, and place them out of the sunlight with air circulating around them, preferably not the garage. You can hang them upside down in a warm room either in the open air or in brown bags tied with twine. After five or six days, rub them from the stem onto paper and then into airtight containers. Discard the stems and the pieces that fail to crumble.
6. You can freeze herbs for cooking and whole sprigs are preferred. Herbs used for medicinal purposes are best used fresh or in tinctures or decoctions, and dried herbs are used in sachets and in pot pourri. Some fresh herbs (e.g., tansy, lavender, and rosemary) repel moths, and some help keep flies away (e.g., mint, rue, and basil). Cockroaches don't like mint either.

It is a joy to have curly parsley, sweet basil, and tasty chives growing on your windowsill or just outside your kitchen door where they can be snipped fresh and added to salads, soups, casseroles, and sandwiches. You may also want to learn how to use herbs in remedies to improve and maintain health if that subject interests you, and you can have quality, chemical-free ingredients if you grow your own in handy herb planters.

About the Author: Laura Burnett is currently a freelance writer and backyard gardener who enjoys providing tips to consumers who are in the market for all types of garden planters, fiberglass planters and metal planters.

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How To Install A Lawn Sprinkler

Writen by Andrew Bicknell

Installing your own lawn sprinkler system can be a very rewarding experience if done correctly. After all, it is just moving water through a pipe from point A to point B. It doesn't get much easier than that. Unless of course you start to think about the layout of the system, the backflow preventer, the valves and how they sit in the valve box, the wiring back to the control panel, and installing and adjusting the sprinkler heads. Sounds like a lot and it can be but in the end it is just moving water through a pipe from point A to Point B.

So how do you get that water moving through that pipe in the first place? The first thing you have to do is measure your yard and layout where the sprinkler heads need to go to get the best water coverage. You will also need to locate where you want to place the valve boxes and which valves serve which zone.

From your sprinkler layout plan you can figure out what supplies you need and how many sprinkler heads you need, how many valves you need and a good estimate on the amount of pipe you will need to buy.

Before you start digging make sure you have all the underground utilities in you yard located. Call you local underground utility locate hot line and they will locate and mark any underground power, phone, cable, gas and water lines free of charge. If you do not get your lines located you will be responsible for any damage your digging or trenching does to any underground utilities, not to mention the fact that you can seriously injure or kill yourself if you dig into a gas or electric power line.

There are a couple of ways you can dig your pipe into the ground. You can dig your trenches by hand using a shovel or sharp shooter shovel, which will make nice pipe sized trenches for you. Obviously this will take the most amount of time and work. Another alternative is to rent a trencher which will save time and work but will cost you more in rental fees. The third alternative is to rent a trencher that installs the pipe as it goes. This is the quickest and easiest way to get your pipe in the ground without making a big mess of your yard.

The main issue a do it yourselfer will have installing a lawn sprinkler system is time. Most professional installers can install a lawn sprinkler system in an average size yard in 3-5 days depending on layout, yard size and soil conditions. Doing it your self will probably take a little longer, but the results can be the same as a professional install if you take your time and plan well.

Andrew Bicknell is a writer, Webmaster and former lawn sprinkler system installer. For more information on How to Install a Lawn Sprinkler Click Here

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